Madagascar Travel Guide

Social Conventions

The Madagascans are extremely hospitable and welcoming, although their relaxed attitude to time (public forms of transport, for example, will not generally move until they are full – no matter how long it takes to fill the last seat) may be frustrating. Dress is casual, except for the very smartest hotel and restaurant functions. Visitors are advised not to wear any military-style clothing; locally it is disapproved of and could lead to detention. Entertaining is done in restaurants and bars, and a good degree of acquaintance is necessary before being invited to a family home. Gifts should be offered if staying at a local village, particularly to the village headman, although monetary contributions will be seen as an insult. Respect should be paid to the many local taboos (fady) – but as these vary from region to region this is not always easy; however, it is clear that advice should be sought before approaching tombs and graves. It remains the practice in some regions (though it is increasingly rare due to the enormous cost) to invite an ancestor to a village celebration, disinterring the body so that the ancestor may attend physically, and later re-interring the body with new shrouds; this traditional observance (known as famadihana) demonstrates the continuing hold of traditional beliefs. Visitors invited to such an occasion should consider it a great honor.

Photography: Do not photograph military or police establishments.

International Travel

Getting There By Air

Madagascar’s national airline is Air Madagascar (MD) (website: www.airmadagascar.mg).

Departure Tax

None.

Main Airports

Antananarivo (TNR) is 17km (11 miles) from the city. To/from the airport: Taxis are available at the airport. Air Madagascar provide a regular bus service to Antananarivo. Facilities: Restaurant, bureau de change and car hire.

Further airports are at Arivonimamo (international standby airport), which is 45km (28 miles) from the capital, Mahajanga (links to East Africa and the Comoro Islands), Nossi Bé (links to the Seychelles) and Toamasina (links to Mauritius and Réunion islands).

Getting There By Water

Main port:Toamasina.

International tour operators promote Madagascar as a stopping place on extended cruises of the Indian and western Pacific Oceans. Expensive private cruises can be arranged from Europe and the USA.

Duty Free

Overview

The following goods can be imported into Madagascar without incurring customs duty by persons 21 years of age and over:

• 500 cigarettes or 25 cigars or 500g of tobacco.
• One bottle of alcoholic beverage.

Note: All perfume is subject to duty. All vegetables must be declared and import permit received before travel. Animals need a detailed veterinary certificate. Dogs and cats must be vaccinated against rabies. Arms and ammunition require an exit permit. Tourists should be aware that many items on sale may have been manufactured illegally and may not be taken out of the country, with or without a permit.

Restricted items: The import and export of all foodstuffs (including fruit), protected plants and animals is forbidden. Only 100g of vanilla may be taken out of Madagascar. Non-residents can export 1kg of precious and semi precious stones, as long as proper receipts can be provided; residents are permitted to take out 250g.

Internal Travel

Getting Around By Air

Most of Madagascar can be reached by air, the exceptions being a few towns in the central highlands. Air Madagascar (MD) (website: www.airmadagascar.com) flies to many locations throughout the island and offers a 50% discount on domestic flights to passengers using the airline to travel to Madagascar. Eight private companies based in Antananarivo provide flights on request.

Getting Around By Water

Madagascar has a strong maritime tradition and there are many coastal transport services. Rapids render many of the rivers unnavigable; local tour operators can organize small-boat safaris on the Betsiboka and the Tsiribihina. The Pangalanes Canal runs for almost 600km (370 miles) along the east coast. Much of it is currently too clogged with silt for commercial traffic; the tourist board can arrange sailing holidays.

Getting Around By Rail

The only railway lines to take passengers are those linking Moranga with Ambila Lemaitso and the east coast line between Fianarantsoa and Mankara, which travels through mountains, rainforests and quaint villages. The island’s railways were rebuilt after severe cyclone damage in 2000. First-class carriages are air conditioned. Light refreshments are sometimes available. Children under four years old travel free. Children aged four to six years old pay half fare.

Getting Around By Road

Traffic drives on the right. Since 2002, 3,000km (1,864 miles) of roads have been resurfaced. Tarred roads of varying quality link the main towns in the central highlands and continue to the most populous parts of the east and northwest coasts. The route from Antananarivo to Toliara has reduced travel time between these destinations from three to two days. There are isolated sections of tarred road, but dirt tracks are more common. Many roads are impassable in the rainy season (November to March).

Bus: A flat fare is charged, irrespective of the distance traveled. There are intra-muros and suburban bus lines, but services can be unreliable and buses tend to be crowded.

Taxi: Flat fares apply except in Antananarivo and Fianarantsoa, where fare is calculated according to whether the ride is confined to the ‘lower town’ or goes on to the ‘upper town’. There are two types of taxi: the taxi-be, which is quick and comfortable, and the taxi-brousse (bush taxi), which is cheaper, slower, makes more stops and generally operates on cross-country routes. Fares should be agreed in advance and tipping is unnecessary.

Rickshaw: The pousse-pousse (rickshaw) takes passengers except where traffic or gradient renders it impractical. Prices are not controlled and vary according to distance.

Stagecoach: A few covered wagons continue to take passengers in Antananarivo.

Car hire: This is not widespread and car hire agencies can only be found in the main tourist towns. It is advisable to make enquiries in advance about insurance requirements for car hire.

Motorbike hire: Available from several companies in Madagascar.

Documentation: A national driving license is sufficient.