WarsawAs the capital of
Poland,
Warsaw was one of the most beautiful and sophisticated cities in
Central Europe until its almost total destruction during the Nazi occupation of World War II. The end of the war saw most of the city reduced to rubble and ruins, and the majority of the population had either been killed or interred in Nazi concentration camps.
The city underwent a major regeneration following the havoc of destruction, and the buildings in the heart of the old city were meticulously restored. Most of the historic Old Town was painstakingly rebuilt from a pile of debris,
restoring it to its original 17th and 18th century appearance, with the charming old market square at its center, now a major World Heritage Site attraction.
Warsaw is divided into two distinct halves by the
Vistula River, with the Old Town, the modern city center and most of the attractions on the western side. The eastern side of the river comprises of uninteresting residential suburbs and business districts. The post-war appearance of Warsaw is a modern urban landscape of high-rise buildings, and the years of communist rule have left an uninspiring architectural legacy of drab concrete structures and uniform prefab-style housing. Dominating the skyline is the city's eyesore, the massive shape of the Palace of Science and Culture, Stalin's bequest to its citizens.
Lying in determined contrast to the concrete greyness are traces of Poland's grand past, including castles and palaces, open parklands, impressive churches and the restored streets of the historic old center. Signs of former political austerity have been replaced by modern progression, with dreary state shops turned into fashionable boutiques, and consumerism a growing trend.
Although many people give scant regard to Warsaw as an appealing tourist destination, it is still Poland's largest city and the political, economic, scientific and cultural hub of the country. It has many museums and historical monuments, galleries and historic attractions, a variety of restaurants and open-air cafes, and an energetic nightlife. With green open spaces and classical music concerts, this modern bustling city is a far cry from the severe Communist-era images of post-war Warsaw.
Getting Around: The
Municipal Transport Board in Warsaw operates an extensive bus and tram network and a single-line metro system. Buses and trams ply the streets from 5am to 11pm each day and are the cheapest way to get around. Tickets are valid for all modes of public transport and must be bought in advance from Ruch kiosks, post offices, hotels or restaurants. Travelers must then punch the ticket on the machine inside the bus or tram, one ticket for every change of vehicle. One day passes and group tickets are available. The metro trains run every five minutes to and fro between the southern suburbs and the city center and is the fastest way of getting around Warsaw. Metered taxis can be hailed on the streets or ordered by telephone from a number of different companies. Visitors are sometimes overcharged, particularly at the airport and central station so it is best to agree on a price before getting in. Taxis ordered by phone are usually a lot cheaper.
Climate: Warsaw has a continental climate, with cold, snowy winters and mild summers. On average, summer temperatures range between 47°F and 73°F (9°C and 22°C), while winter temperatures range between 25°F and 42°F (-4°C and 6°C). July is the wettest month, though rain does fall sporadically throughout the year.
GdañskGdañsk is an important port, situated at the mouth of the Vistula River on the
Baltic Sea, and throughout its history has been a major trading center. It is the best known of the Tri-City complex that it forms with the modern seaport of
Gdynia and the fashionable beach resort town of Sopot.
Its turbulent history includes the rule of the Teutonic Knights in the 14th century, who then lost it to Prussia, and after the first shots of World War II were fired at the nearby Polish garrison,
Westerplatte, it came under occupation of
Nazi Germany in 1939. Like many Polish towns
Gdañsk lay in ruins after the war, but it was meticulously rebuilt over a 20-year period, returning it to its former glory, and the interesting architecture and beautiful painted buildings are part of the town's historic charm.
The richest architecture is visible in the historic quarter of the Main Town. Its main thoroughfare, known as the Royal Way, is spectacular. Lined with magnificent buildings featuring beautifully painted facades and entered through grand stone gateways at either end, this was the route along which the Polish Kings paraded during their visits. The most splendid façade in town belongs to the Golden House, one of Gdañsk's most impressive buildings, along with the Town Hall and Artus Court. In front of the Court, the gathering place of the old merchants, stands the Renaissance-style Neptune's Fountain. Along the waterfront with its fashionable restaurants and cafes, the huge Gdañsk Crane dominates the promenade, the largest crane in medieval
Europe and today housing the Maritime Museum.
Parallel to the Royal Way is Gdañsk's most picturesque street, Mariacka Lane, lined with quaint 17th century burgher houses with decorative steps and iron railings. The gigantic St Mary's Church towers over the city and offers splendid panoramic views.
Getting Around: The city center is small and compact and easy to navigate on foot, but buses and trams operate a frequent service throughout the day. Tickets should be bought at kiosks before boarding. Taxis are reasonably inexpensive and booking by phone is cheaper than hailing one on the street. The fast train system (SKM) is the most efficient way to get between the three towns comprising the Tri-City area.
Climate: Gdañsk has a temperate climate with warm summers and cold winters that can be very severe. Rain is possible all year round. Summer is the best time to visit when temperatures range from 70°F to 90°F (20°C to 30°C), but evenings can be cool enough to require a sweater. Winters are wet, very cold and grey.
KrakowThe only major city to escape the destruction of World War II,
Krakow has one of the best-preserved medieval city centers in Europe. The Old Town is a significant
UNESCO World Heritage Site and retains a wealth of architectural gems from different periods, with magnificent churches and aristocratic palaces lining the old streets, reminiscent of its glorious days when it was the abode of kings and royalty. At the heart of the city lies one of the grandest squares in Europe, the Old Market Square.
The charming Old Town is a compact area encircled by leafy parkland that forms a green belt around the historic center. The main entrance to the old city was through the
Florian Gate, set within the original city walls, now the haunt of artists and their work. With a thriving cultural life, it has been home to many of the nation's greatest writers, artists and intellectuals, and is one of the main cultural centers in the country, a spirited city with personality and charisma.
Overlooking the city is
Wawel Hill, topped by the striking
Royal Castle and Cathedral, the seat of Polish kings for seven centuries and the symbols of Polish national history. Also important is the city's Jewish roots, and the history of one of the great Jewish centers in Europe can clearly be seen in the old ghetto area of Kazimierz, and starkly remembered in the memorial death camps of
Auschwitz and Birkenau, west of Krakow.
Situated on the banks of the Vistula River, Krakow is also a modern city, the third largest in Poland, and an important university center boasting the oldest university in Europe. The large student population creates a lively atmosphere and a vibrant nightlife. Countless cafes and outdoor restaurants surround the cobbled main square. The unique atmosphere of this medieval city has made it one of Poland's most popular tourist destinations.
Getting Around: Buses and trams are the easiest and cheapest way to get around in Krakow, though they can be crowded during rush hour. Tickets can be purchased at various kiosks, ticket machines and on the bus or tram itself. Taxis are readily available, though prices increase between 10pm and 8am. Radio taxis (identified by a taxi sign and the phone number of the company) usually offer the best rates. The Old Town is relatively compact and easy to negotiate, and is best explored on foot as it is closed to traffic. Many of Krakow's attractions are within easy walking distance and car hire is only really necessary if venturing outside the city into the outer regions.
Climate: Krakow has a temperate climate, influenced by the weather systems that build over the Atlantic. The weather in Krakow in summer is comfortably warm with occasional heat waves when dry continental air comes in from the east. An old Polish poem says that in Krakow 'days are longest in June, hottest in July and most beautiful in August'. Autumn in Krakow brings dry, warm days starting with morning mist, and rich golden coloration of the foliage. Winter is fairly severe when the city is blanketed in snow and temperatures at or below freezing. Spring is the best season in Krakow, when bright, mild days are accompanied by the fragrance of blossom.
