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AthensAthens exudes a unique charm, its lively character winning over tens of thousands of visitors every year. Street markets, vine-covered tavernas, souvenir stalls and ancient monuments all form a conglomerate with buildings old and new in this city, which one out of four Greeks call home. For tourists the greatest advantage is that most attractions are accessible on foot in the central area around the landmark Acropolis. Walking is the best way to soak up the Athenian atmosphere because the traffic can reach nightmare proportions.
Athens was named after Athena, the Greek goddess
of wisdom, who according to mythology won the city as prize after a duel against Poseidon. The city can chart its history back thousands of years and is regarded as the cradle of western civilization; the place where democracy was invented and philosophy, art and architecture were refined. After a classical golden age when it was home to Socrates, Plato and Aristotle, the city declined in the Middle Ages, dwindling to nothing but a town with a few thousand residents gathered in the colorful area that is now known as the Plaka, until its rebirth as capital of an independent Greece in 1834.
Getting Around: Most tourist sites are within the city center, which is easy to get around on foot, however there is an extensive public transport network consisting of buses, trolley buses, minibuses and a fast new 3-line underground metro service that requires a standard ticket for a 90-minute usage span. The metro is especially useful to get to Piraeus to catch a boat to the islands. The metro stations double as impressive archaeological art and artifact galleries. Transport is cheap, but often overcrowded especially during the siesta rush hour between 1pm and 3pm, and operates until midnight; a limited night bus service operates along major routes. Bus and metro tickets are not transferable, but a daily pass can be used on both; single tickets or packets of 10 must be bought in advance and validated when getting on. Although taxis are plentiful it may be difficult to get one during the siesta rush hour, and it is not unusual to share the ride with other passengers going in the same direction. It is often easier to phone ahead for a radio cab. Taxis are inexpensive, but always check that the meter is on and set to the minimum fare of EUR1 as drivers will often attempt to overcharge tourists - if its 'not working' look for another taxi. Legitimate surcharges can increase the final bill, but these should be displayed on the dashboard. Driving in Athens is not recommended, there are new laws banning cars from the commercial center to reduce heavy traffic and pollution, and parking anywhere is near impossible.
Peloponnese PeninsulaThe southern part of mainland Greece, known as Morea, consists of the large Peloponnese Peninsula, now divided from the mainland by the Corinth Canal. The peninsula plays host to virtually every tourist that comes to Greece, because most of the country's important and imposing ancient sites are found on its landmass, which is dominated by two mountain ranges, the Taygetos and Parnon. The peninsula is a playground, too, for the Greeks themselves. Summer sees thousands of Athenians heading south at weekends to enjoy the seaside resorts and beaches of the Peninsula. Besides ancient ruins, the fertile coastal strip of the Peloponnese also serves as Greece's market garden and center for wine production. Many tourists enter Greece by sea from Italy and other Mediterranean ports through the Peloponnese port of Patras, the third largest town in Greece. The Olympic torch is ritually lit at Olympia by a high priestess, just as it was in ancient times, and carried across the continents of the world to the host country to mark the start of the Games.
Getting Around: Buses and trains link Athens with the Peloponnese and all main towns on the peninsula. There is regular public bus transport between towns and major sites of interest, but a newly improved road system means that to travel by car is the fastest and most efficient way of getting around. Taxis are easy to hire in the towns or between sites and run on a share basis, so other passengers may be picked up for the journey.
ThessalonikiGreece's second largest city, capital of Macedonia in the north, was the realm of Alexander the Great and named after his sister, Thessaloniki, when it was founded in 316 BC. It sits in a bowl framed by low hills, facing a bay on the Gulf Thermaikos. Despite being one of the oldest cities in Europe, today Thessaloniki is lively and modern, more attractive than Athens with wide avenues, parks and squares. In 1917 most of the city was destroyed in a massive fire, and rebuilt later. This is not a high-rise city, though, because the area is prone to earthquakes and regulations have been imposed preventing the building of skyscrapers. This means that residents and visitors alike can enjoy the seaside situation of Thessaloniki, with views aplenty from the city streets. The main squares are Platia Elefterias and Platia Aristotelous, both on the waterfront and alive with cafes and restaurants, children playing or people just strolling. Thessaloniki, having been under Ottoman rule for long periods in its history, has been left a legacy of numerous Byzantine churches, and museums housing Byzantine art and artifacts. The city also has a heritage of early Christian communities, particularly the renowned monasteries of nearby Mount Athos.
Getting Around: Thessaloniki is a pleasant city to explore on foot. However it does have an efficient Metro (underground) and extensive bus service. Taxis are plentiful.
CorfuThe island of Corfu, best known of the seven Ionian islands that lie off the north-west coast of Greece, differs markedly from the other popular Greek islands because not only is it green and lush, but also very developed with tourist resorts and hotels. Summer time is hectic on Corfu, with charter flights arriving daily from European cities, ferries disgorging travelers from Italy, and cruise ships docking.
There is plenty to draw visitors to this magical island. Modern Corfu Town is upbeat and cosmopolitan, offering an exciting conglomeration of Greek, Italian, French and British influences. The old town was laid out by the Venetians in the 14th century and features narrow alleys lined with multi-storyed pastel-colored buildings with red tiled roofs, creating a scene reminiscent of Italy. The hub of activity in the town center is the Liston, an arcaded row of cafes and restaurants, copied from the Rue de Rivoli in Paris.
Those wishing to escape from the melee in the town can head for the interior to enjoy some spectacular scenery and greenery. Corfu has, for instance, 43 different kinds of orchids growing wild in the countryside, and there are countless olive groves. Finally there are, of course, the beautiful beaches washed by the sparkling Ionian Sea, and it is still possible to search out a secluded cove or two even in the busy season when the over-developed resorts on the east coast are awash with package tourists.
Getting Around: Corfu's bus system includes public bus services to Corfu town and its surrounds, and a semi-private bus system that services points all over the island. In and around Corfu town taxis are the easiest way to get around, and are the only means of transport to the harbor and airport; agree on the fare beforehand. Hiring a car is the most popular way to get around and there are numerous car rental companies around the island, but cars may be difficult to come by in high season; it is best to book with an established international rental company prior to arrival. Mopeds and motorbikes are easily available for hire.
CreteThe island of Crete is equipped with more tourist facilities than any other Greek island, which is fair enough because it is the largest. The reason why thousands of foreigners visit Crete each year, however, is not so much for the traditional Greek island experience, as for investigating the remains of the archaic Minoan culture that flourished here thousands of years before Christ. Some parts of the island have been overpowered by tourist resorts and massive hotels, but fortunately Crete does still allow for exploring endless beaches, numerous villages, remote mountains and some natural curiosities like caves and gorges for those who take pains to avoid the 'madding crowds'.
The famed Minoan archaeological sites, particularly the palace of Knossos and Phaistos, are vast and can take a great deal of time and effort to fully explore and appreciate. There are numerous other sites of interest as well, and not all related to the Minoan era. Crete has experienced thousands of years of habitation and has a complicated and diverse heritage, including years of Roman, Venetian and Turkish rule, that have all left their mark.
As one experienced traveller reportedly said: 'there is lots to see on Crete, and a lot not to see.' The best of Crete for those who do not want an in-and-out package style visit can be found on the east and west tips of the island, areas that have retained most of the island's traditions and natural beauty, as opposed to the northern coast that has been harshly overdeveloped. Gateway to the island is the large, modern city of Heraklion, which is anything but an island idyll, but a vital commercial center.
Getting Around: A comprehensive bus system makes Crete easy to travel around, with frequent services along the north coast, and less frequent buses servicing places of interest on the south coast via the mountainous interior. There are also many tour companies in the towns and resorts that offer excursions to all the major sites around the island. Ferries link the towns along the south coast and the islands, but many only operate during summer. Taxis can be hired to all sites and are reasonable especially if shared with two or three people; travel agents can find drivers that speak English to act as a guide as well. For those with limited time on the island, hiring a car is the most flexible way to get around outside the cities and towns, although travelers should be warned that Crete has an exceptionally high road fatality rate due to rough surfaces and curving mountain roads, particularly in the south. It does however allow one to leave the overdeveloped tourist trail and explore the real Crete, and there is no shortage of car rental companies in all the main towns and at the airports. Mopeds and motorbikes can also be hired, but again can be dangerous on winding, potholed roads.
SantoriniNot only is Santorini one of the most beautiful islands in the world, it is also geologically and archaeologically one of the most dramatic. The island which is also called Thira, is shaped like an enormous pair of jaws encircling a lake filled with pure blue water. This is the core of an ancient volcano, which according to legend destroyed the lost continent of Atlantis when it blew its top about 3,600 years ago, burying the ancient city of Akrotiri (now being excavated) under tons of ash and sending out tidal waves that inundated other landmasses. The island's two towns, Fira and Ia, are perched on the cliff tops of the highest part of the island. Ferries arrive and depart in the harbor below, and visitors walk or ride donkeys up the steep winding path to the towns. The towns are equipped with hotels, good restaurants, bars and plenty of nightlife to keep tourists happy while they relax between visiting the archaeological remains of ancient Thera, dating back to the 9th century BC, on the east side of the island. Other attractions include the excavations at Akrotiri, an archaeological museum and an 18th-century monastery. Santorini has two swimming beaches, Perissa and Kamari, both characterized by their volcanic black sand.
Getting Around: Visitors arriving in Santorini are faced with having to negotiate a very steep winding road connecting the ferry harbor to the main town of Fira on the clifftop. If you are fit you can walk, and if you are daring you can take a donkey ride, but most opt for the cable car. Once in Fira local buses connect to most points of interest on the island, or you can rent a car or bike. There are also taxis available.
RhodesIn days of old when knights were bold they found the island of Rhodes, close to the Turkish shore at the merging of the Mediterranean and Aegean seas, and set it up as a fortress to protect the Christian west from the invasion of the 'heathens' from the east. Today the island, the main one of the 12 making up the Dodecanese group, is still subject to invasion, but now the intruders are tourists, who come to revel in what is reputedly the sunniest Greek island, and to have fun in the medieval city the knights left behind. The town of Rhodes, on the northern point of the island, has preserved its picturesque walled old city as a playground for visitors. In ancient times the harbor here was guarded by the legendary Colossus of Rhodes, one of the Seven Wonders of the World, but now some statues of deer have taken its place. Nevertheless the old part of the city has plenty of wonders still to offer and the modern part of the town is just as vibrant. The rest of the relatively large island offers miles of beaches, interesting archaeological sites and natural beauty spots. The best beaches are on the east coast, between Faliraki and Lindos. Lindos is renowned as a particularly picturesque town that has been designated a protected historic settlement.
Getting Around: Rhodes is a major port with sea links to Athens, the islands of the Aegean and Crete, as well as to international destination such as Turkey, Cyprus and Israel. Most international and inter-island ferries dock at the commercial harbor of Kolóna in Rhodes town, and there is a choice of high-speed catamarans, hydrofoils, car ferries or flights to other islands in the Dodecanese group. Public buses service the coastal towns around the island or it is possible to organize a bus tour for island excursions. For shorter distances shared taxis are available, but Rhodes taxi drivers have a bad reputation for overcharging or receiving payoffs from hotels. Rental car agencies are easily available.
MykonosThis upmarket Greek island is a sophisticated, fashionable favorite destination particularly for the gay traveller, and probably because of its popularity it has become reputedly the most expensive of all the islands. Its designer shops, colorful tavernas and throbbing dance clubs are doing a roaring trade, but despite the trendy crowds and a couple of well-attended nudist beaches, the island retains its traditional flavor while its trademark five thatched windmills turn slowly on the hill. Tourists to Mykonos who would like to do some serious sightseeing can visit the archaeological museum on the island, which displays some finds from the necropolis on nearby Rhenia. It is also possible to take a trip across to the uninhabited island of Delos (just six nautical miles away), which is an important World Heritage archaeological site, having been the religious and political center of the Aegean in ancient times. Explore the temples and the Avenue of the Lions, and see some stunning archaic sculptures in the museum.
Getting Around: There are good ferry connections between the Cyclades islands and the mainland, and in summer, hydrofoils and high-speed catamarans as well. Between May and September it is easy to island-hop, although strong winds can upset the more sensitive hydrofoil services. There are airports at Mykonos, Santorini and Paros. Reliable bus services connect the main towns on the islands, and taxis are easily available. Rental car agencies are available, as well as moped and motorbike hire, but as roads are treacherously narrow and winding it is not advised unless an experienced rider.
KosThis island of the Dodecanese group has been taken over almost completely by tourism, catering especially for family holidays. Aside from the drawcard of beautiful beaches, Kos has an abundance of interesting ruins to explore, and is easily reached from Rhodes or Bodrum (Turkey) by ferry. Kos was prominent in antiquity because of its healing temple of Asclepius, founded after the death of the famed physician Hippocrates, who allegedly taught students on the island. The island also features the remains of temples for other healing deities, including Isis and Sarapis, and appears to have historically been an island healing retreat. The island boasts a tree that is reputedly the oldest in Europe and Hippocrates is said to have held lecture sessions in its shade. The island also has several archaeological remains of Persian, Turkish, Roman and Byzantine conquerors that all added their bit during a long history. Kos has busy bars and an entertaining nightlife, and there are some pleasant towns and beaches outside the capital, but those looking for empty beaches should head for quieter islands.
Getting Around: Most visitors' first experience of Kos is its small and antiquated airport situated on the south coast, a few miles west of Kardamena. The island is 25 miles (40km) long and only around five miles (8 km) across and is fairly easy to get around. Most people use the local buses, which link the main resorts and Kos Town, leaving every couple of hours. Taxis are also available and cars can be hired for those wanting to explore the quieter northern beaches. Ferries to Crete, Rhodes and Turkey are on offer, leaving from Kos Town.
SkiathosWith its own airport and more than 60 fine beaches, Skiathos is the most popular of the Sporades Island group and each year attracts thousands of tourists to its busy coastline. The island is only four miles (6km) wide and seven miles (11km) long. Away from the resort areas along the south and east coast it is relatively undeveloped with shady woods, olive and walnut groves and quiet beaches that can only be accessed by boat. The seafront in Skiathos Town is lined with local tavernas, cafés and some excellent seafood restaurants that look over the lively marina. From here boat trips leave to take tourists around the island to swim in the sparkling blue-green waters and see the sights, which include a ruined Venetian fortress dating from 1207, and the deserted 14th-century town of Kastro. The most famous beach on the island, and perhaps Greece, is Koukounaries, a one-mile (2km) long strip of fine golden sand and crystal clear water set in front of a thick pine forest. It attracts many visitors especially during July and August and offers all sorts of watersports facilities.
Getting Around: There is a small airport in Skiathos offering daily flights to Athens and ferries depart regularly for Volos and Agios Konstantinos, on the mainland. Good bus services ferry tourists around the islands, and mopeds can also be hired.
ThassosThe package tour companies have only recently started to invade Greece's most northerly island, the emerald Macedonian isle of Thassos, close to the mainland port of Kavala in the Aegean Sea. Those seeking a true Greek Island get-away can still find some traditional tavernas, interesting archaeological sites, picturesque villages and beautiful sandy beaches washed by crystal clear water. The locals are fast learning to cash in on the tourist trade, however, and resort hotels are springing up as ferries disgorge the crowds during the height of the summer season.
Historically Thassos is one of the richest of the Greek islands. It was inhabited as far back as 2,000 BC, home to the Thracians until the Phoenicians, drawn by the wonderful climate, rich pine woods and white marble, colonized it in 1,500 BC. The Greeks arrived about 700 years later, staging a peaceful takeover, and the Roman's followed. All left their legacy in the form of archaeological sites, which today provide plenty of interesting excursions for visitors.
Capital and main port is the city of Limenas, which is not particularly inviting, but it does have a pretty old harbor sporting colorful fishing boats and traditional tavernas. Within easy reach of Limenas are the lovely little villages of Panagia and Potamia, overlooking the sandy Golden Beach and the long, inviting crescent of Skala Potamias. A little further away is the quieter village of Kinira with its pebbled beach, and the pinewood-ringed Paradise Beach, frequented by nudists. On the south coast, at Aliki, lies a peninsula forming two magnificent bays, also site of ancient marble quarries.
The most popular tourist resorts hug the south-western coast, near the town of Limenaria, but further along the west coast are a series of quaint fishing villages, interspersed with lovely beaches and coves. Inland, old mountain settlements charm with narrow cobbled streets and cafes on the village square.
Those tired of the more well-worn Greek destinations will find Thassos refreshing.
Getting Around: Daily buses via Panagia and Prinos serve all the coastal villages. The 100 kilometers long road network is in good condition. Cars and motorbikes are available for hire on the island and taxis are available.
ZanteThe Ionian island of Zante (also called Zakynthos) has been colorfully billed as 'the green island of poetry, song and love', mainly because it was the home of Dionysios Solomos, who wrote the Greek national anthem, 'The Hymn to Liberty'. Arriving in Zante by ferry is certainly a poetic experience. The picturesque town curves around a bay dominated by a Venetian Fortress and the St Dennis Cathedral. Zakinthos town is reminiscent of Venice with its historic St Mark's Square and Solomos Square, lined by reconstructed neoclassical buildings. The Solomos mausoleum is also a museum dedicated to the island's aristocracy of bygone days, while the Byzantine Museum sports splendid icons and frescoes salvaged from the island's beautiful medieval churches, destroyed in the massive earthquake of 1953. The main attraction for visitors, however, is the triangular shaped island's 57 miles (92km) of coastline, particularly on the eastern and southern flanks, which are blessed with beautiful bays. Favorites are the white sandy beaches of Lagana and Geraka, also renowned for being the nesting grounds of the Caretta-Caretta sea turtles. Inland the mountain villages lure holidaymakers away from the beach to sample some local hospitality, good food and wine and explore monasteries tucked away among the greenery. Tourism has become the main income earner for this popular resort island but the rapid development of infrastructure in recent years has not depleted its traditional charm. Zante remains pleasantly poetic.
SamosThe easternmost island of the Aegean, Samos, was one of the first Greek islands to take advantage of the package tour boom that began in earnest in the 1980s. Today it has become 184 square miles (477 sq km) of holiday resort, its beaches dotted with sunbeds and encircled by hotel rooms, and its waterfronts lined with tavernas, bars and cafes. Tourism may be on the increase, but that does not mean that this lovely island has lost its traditional charm, its laidback feel, or its scenic beauty. The very fact that it remains such a popular destination testifies to the fact that it has a great deal to offer the holidaymakers who come to enjoy themselves each year, many returning again and again.
In ancient times when the great mathematician, Pythagoras, was born here in the 6th century BC, Samos flourished, as evidenced by the now few remains of its magnificent architecture, which included a temple and marble paved road lined with 2,000 statues (now largely covered by the airport runway). The course of its more modern history has seen the island in a tug of war between Greece and Turkey, but since 1913 Samos has been indisputably Greek.
Samos town curls around a semi-circular bay with its pretty pastel-colored buildings rising in tiers up a green hillside from its busy, and somewhat tacky touristy waterfront. Numerous other coastal towns and villages encircle the island, all offering holiday accommodation. Inland there are some delightful mountain villages with picturesque alleyways and friendly locals, which, out of season anyway, still maintain the illusion of being unspoilt by mass tourism.
Samos has always been known as being blessed with natural beauty, and this has not changed. The dramatic, indented coastline is dotted with sand and shingle coves, while inland the slopes of the mountains and hills are covered in vines and verdant forest.
All in all, for a classic Aegean summer holiday with hot weather, lively tavernas, sights to see, shops to browse and a selection of good beaches, Samos comes up trumps.
CephaloniaCephalonia (also spelt Kefallonia), named after a Greek hero from around the 5th century BC, lies in the center of the Ionian Sea, 53 nautical miles from Patras. This is one of the most enchanting of the Greek islands, which accounts for its having become one of the most sought after by holidaymakers. Hundreds of visitors descend on the island year round, avid for the quiet, windless beaches, many at the base of steep cliffs that plunge into the sea, or to explore the verdant mountainsides clad in shadowy forests. The island resort has an excellent tourist infrastructure, is connected to Athens by air (the airport is situated just south of the ancient capital of Argostoli) and to Patras and surrounding islands by ferry. In addition to some spectacular golden beaches, Cephalonia boasts numerous historic and natural attractions. Best known of these are the caves at Melissani where a subterranean lake reflects a kaleidoscope of gorgeous colors; there are also the 'swallow holes' where visitors marvel at the phenomenon of seawater literally disappearing through the rock. The beautiful city of Argostoli, the island's capital since ancient times, was largely destroyed by an earthquake in 1953, but among the remains are the fascinating archaeological and folk art museums. The island's main town, Lixouri, is peaceful and picturesque, situated close to the south coast where the best beaches are to be found. Visitors to Cephalonia are never at a loss for an entertaining way to spend their time. There are quaint villages, traditional fishing harbors, Roman ruins, architecturally marvelous churches and castles and magnificent views to discover.
SkopelosSkopelos is situated just east of Skiathos and is the largest island of the Sporades group, at 12 miles (19km) long and six miles (10km) across. The fertile island is dominated by lush hills, thick pine forests and olive groves, which in many places descend down to the shoreline and make Skopelos an excellent island for exploring on foot. Skopelos Town is a collection of charming, whitewashed houses that cling to a steep hill behind the harbor, crowned by an old fort. The town is home to more than 100 of the island's 380 churches. There are many beaches to choose from on Skopelos; most can be reached by public bus, but some only by boat. Skopelos is quieter and less well known than its neighbor Skiathos, offering a more laid-back, relaxing, and romantic atmosphere, which is ideal for those looking to get away from it all.
Getting Around: Small as it is, most visitors to Skopelos enjoy strolling around the island on foot. For those in a hurry, renting a scooter or car is possible with several agencies in the town. The main road that runs across the island from Glossa to Skopelos Town has public buses plying up and down, and beachgoers can also opt to travel in wooden caiques from the harbor in town to their chosen beach.
LesvosLesvos (alternatively spelt Lesbos), the third largest of the Greek islands, is a little different from the rest, being largely self-sufficient thanks to its commerce in olive-growing and fishing. Despite being a popular summer holiday destination it remains unspoilt and natural, untainted by tourist trappings, and its size precludes it from becoming overcrowded or claustrophobic like some of the other Greek resort islands.
Situated in the Aegean, Lesvos is very close to the Turkish coast and well connected by air and sea to Athens and Thessalonika, as well as some of the other Ionian Islands like Rhodes and Kos.
The delightful island is encircled with quaint fishing villages and pale gold sandy beaches, while inland the fertile soil is rich with olive groves, the uplands covered in pine and holme oak. Two gulfs, which penetrate deep into the interior of the island, provide for an interesting, sheltered coastline.
The main town on the island is Mitilini, a city of 30,000 inhabitants clustered around its well-preserved Byzantine castle. The favorite spots for holidaymakers, however, are the northern village of Molivos; the south coast town of Plomari (where it is reputed the finest ouzo in the world is still made); and Sigri, at the western tip, near the world's largest petrified forest.
Apart from beautiful, secluded beaches and superb opportunities for walking and bird-watching, Lesvos has relics of a long and proud history to explore. The island has been inhabited since the Bronze Age, and rose to glory particularly around the 6th century BC when it was rivalled only by Athens as a great center of civilization, home to the legendary poets Sappho and Alcaeus.
Today it is easy for visitors to wax poetical when enjoying the serenity of this beautiful lush island with its balmy Mediterranean climate.
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