The Royal PalaceCity/Region: Phnom Penh
This is the principal attraction of the city and contains the best examples of 20th-century Khmer architecture. The Royal Palace is the official residence of
King Norodom Sihanouk. Set among the perfectly maintained gardens is the exquisite
Throne Hall, the Elephant Pavilion where the king's elephants were kept, the
Royal Treasury and the Chan Chaya Pavilion, made especially for performances of classical Cambodian dance. Although mostly off-limits to the public, the Silver Pagoda can be visited. The highlight of the compound, the
Silver Pagoda, takes its name from the floor of the temple, which is completely covered in silver tiles. The internal walls are decorated with frescoes depicting episodes of the Ramayana myth, painted in 1903 by 40 Khmer artists. Also called the Pagoda of the Emerald Buddha, the magnificent baccarat crystal image of the Emerald Buddha sits in the center on a gilt pedestal. There are other intricately carved Buddha images on display, notably the life-size solid gold statue that stands in front of the pedestal, decorated with 9,584 diamonds.
Hours: Daily 7.30am to 11am and 2.30pm to 5pm
Admission: US$3; additional camera charge US$2
National MuseumCity/Region: Phnom Penh
The museum houses the country's most important collection of ancient Cambodian culture and Khmer art. It is made up of four galleries containing relics, sculpture, art and crafts covering history from the pre-Angkor period (4th century) until the present. The pieces are arranged in chronological order and the collection continues to grow as new treasures previously hidden from the
Khmer Rouge are discovered. There are also original relics and sculptures from the temples of Angkor.
Address: Next to the Royal Palace on Streets 178 and 13
Hours: Daily 8am to 11am and 2.30pm to 5pm
Admission: US$3
Tuol Sleng MuseumCity/Region: Phnom Penh
When the Khmer Rouge came into power in 1975 they commandeered and converted a secondary school into a primitive prison where they detained and tortured anyone suspected of anti-revolutionary behavior. Between 1975 and 1979 an estimated 20,000 victims were imprisoned in Security Prison 21, or S21, as it was known. The museum was established after the Vietnamese invasion of
Cambodia and today it appears exactly as the fleeing Khmer Rouge left it, and serves as a testimony to the crimes and atrocities of the organization. It is a tremendously depressing experience, and the pictures, instruments of torture and bloodstained walls give a thorough idea of the extent of the pain and horror borne by the Cambodian people. Thousands of victims were transported from here to the extermination camp outside the city,
Choeung Ek.
Address: Corner of 113 and 350 Streets
Hours: Daily 8am to 11.30am and 2.30pm to 5pm
Admission: US$2
Choeung EkCity/Region: Phnom Penh
Choeung Ek was the extermination camp where the prisoners from S21 (now the Tuol Sleng Museum) were transported to and executed. Also known as the Killing Fields after the movie of the same name, about 17,000 people were buried here in mass graves. A tall Memorial Stupa was constructed to commemorate the dead and more than 8,000 skulls are displayed behind the glass. At the entrance, a handwritten sign in Khmer and English summarises the atrocities caused by the Khmer Rouge.
Hours: Daily
Admission: US$2
SihanoukvilleCity/Region: Phnom Penh
While this beach town doesn't have much to compare with
Thailand's pristine coast it does make a great getaway from the dusty or muddy (depending on season) rest of Cambodia.
Sihanoukville is the country's only deep water port making much of city industrial and unattractive to tourists. But there are several secluded tourist beaches with all the requisite trappings: dishevelled beach bars, guesthouses, and hawkers. As there isn't much to do in town it is worth the extra money to stay in the quaint beach side guesthouses. Nightly beach barbecues prepare great food and cheap beer. The government is said to have plans to develop the area for larger resorts which will surely ruin its laid back beach charm in years to come. Regular daily buses are a three to four hour journey to and from Phnom Phen along Cambodia's best road. There is also a ferry connecting to
Koh Kong, the Cambodian/Thailand border.
KepCity/Region: Phnom Penh
From Sihanoukville a great next destination is the one time popular resort town of Kep. The Khmer Rouge did a number on this town but the crumbling villas of past French and rich Cambodian tourists add to its ruinous mystique. A beautiful coastal road and nearby Rabbit Island provide present day visitors with a relaxed atmosphere. For the best restaurants in town and best seafood in Cambodia try the shack like buildings near the water and order the crab. Kep is around a 3 hour taxi ride from Sihanoukville or a 4 hour bus ride from Phnom Phen.
River dolphinsCity/Region: Phnom Penh
Irrawaddy river dolphins, once in danger of extinction, are now saving the rural north eastern town of
Kratie. For years the dolphins were killed in now illegal fishing practices and hunted by the Khmer Rouge, but their appeal to tourists is bringing the welcomed dollar to the region. Kratie is accustomed to budget travelers with a choice of cheap guesthouses. All of these offer motorbike drivers for the scenic 15 km drive to the dolphin's river home. From the river shore tourists can rent small boats to get closer. While the oarsmen retain a healthy distance from the surfacing animals, viewers can get near enough to see a similarity between Khmer and dolphin smiles.
Transport: Bus rides are within five hours of Phnom Phen.
Blind massageCity/Region: Phnom Penh
Cambodian travel can often be jarring; hard beds, bumpy roads and death defying taxi drivers can leave a body in ill shape. Seeing Hands is a business employing blind masseuses to work out those tourist kinks. Cambodia gives few opportunities to disabled workers and supporting Seeing Hands has its own karmic rewards but visitors will be even more satisfied by the quality of the massage. The city offers a host of dodgy "massage" houses and knowing a place is reputable is relaxing in itself. There are three Seeing Hands centers in town all offering massages for about 6 dollars, but don't forget to tip.
Admission: From USD6
Central Market (Psah Thmay)City/Region: Phnom Penh
Phnom
Phen's most obvious landmark looks more in style with a "Star Wars" trading post then most earthly structures. Inside the tall dome is a host of goods from watches, jewelry, clothing and food. Much of the market's merchandise is the same so comparing prices to find the real value is advised. One should bargain hard but good naturedly. Surrounding the structure is a ring of tightly packed vendors selling similar wears. Its central location is walkable from about anywhere but all taxis know "central market".
Foreign Correspondents ClubCity/Region: Phnom Penh
A pleasant way to spend dimming evening is the balcony of the
FCC. The well located bar and restaurant sits on the banks of riverside overlooking the converging Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers. Prices are more expensive then its neighbors but the colonial chic style gives a French flair to the night.
Shooting rangeCity/Region: Phnom Penh
Amuse your inner warrior with Phnom Phen's best carnal pleasure: shooting big guns. Whatever one's taste, automatic rifles, rocket launchers, or grenades, they are all a possibility. It is said that for extra money targets can become live farm animals although this practice may have stopped in recent times. At about a dollar a bullet make sure Rambo instincts are kept in check. All guesthouses and taxis can provide a trip to the range which is located close to the airport.
Memphis PubCity/Region: Phnom Penh
Memphis Pub is a cool venue to hear great cover bands put their spin on old classic rock. It is a thumping place usually packed with expats and tourists until late. There isn't much Khmer about the style but a taste of home is fun for a night.
Memphis is on riverside making it a central and safe area to stumble home from.
LakesideCity/Region: Phnom Penh
Lakeside is the backpacker hub of Phnom Phen. It is located on the shore of Boeng Kak Lake, a short taxi ride from downtown. The cheapest rooms are available for a couple of dollars but upgrading is a good idea. The guesthouses with the best laid back atmosphere are spread far into the water with nice decks to lounge away the heat or soak up the night air. Check out the guesthouses creatively named #9 and #10. All the similarities of "backpakerville" are here: cheap eats, travel agencies and alternative bars with cheap beer and unique cocktail names.
Siem ReapCity/Region: The Temples of Angkor
Siem Reap is about the exact opposite of Angkor. New money seeps from it through luxury hotels, new cars, and western style bars. There are many guesthouses and restaurants but nothing has much character. All modes of transport arrive to
Siem Reap; an airport lands planes from all over
South East Asia, a ferry from Phnom Phen, or, most commonly, busses. A terrible road leads to Siem Reap from the Thai border but a 6 hour stretch from Phnom Phen is easy riding. Coercion from bus guides to stay in their associated hotels is common but finding available accommodation elsewhere is usually easy. There is little reason to stay in the city if not visiting Angkor.
