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Culture

Moorish influence is ever-present in Andalucía. From the teardrop-shaped arches of its architecture to its flower-filled patios, even to its vocabulary (linguists claim olé comes from Allah), seven centuries of Muslim occupation are felt everywhere, despite the squelching efforts of the Spanish Inquisition.

The character of the Andalucían people is no exception to the Moor cultural inheritance, but there's no question that Andalucíans have a flair all their own. An emotional, energetic, and vivacious people, Andalucíans take great pride in their customs and culture. Socializing is vital to Andalucíans: They regularly congregate in bars and clubs to discuss family, current events, weather--anything at all. Also essential is a strong family life, with the mother as the center.

The most overriding Andalucían trait is their penchant for partying. If there isn't a festival going on, then preparations are being made for another, and one has to wonder how Andalucíans get any work done. quoteCelebrated the week before Easter, Semana Santa in Sevilla attracts more on-lookers than any other festival. In a daily procession set to a slow drumbeat, more than 50 brotherhoods carry ornate gilded floats with images of Christ or the Virgin--some dating from the 16th and 17th centuries--through the city streets. Religious fervor rides high as the crowd wails songs of devotion at the solemn procession. Sevilla barely has time to clean up after Semana Santa before the more light-hearted Feria de Abril starts up two weeks later. A rollicking celebration of spring's arrival, Feria de Abril stands as another occasion for drinking, dancing, fireworks, bullfighting, and dressing up gypsy-style.

Lute

No fiesta is complete without flamenco shows, a dramatic dance, guitar, and singing style born in Andalucía. Brought over in distant forms from North African gypsies in the Middle Ages, flamenco tells the story of the suffering of the gypsy people. Even today, flamenco performers are given to passionate, improvisational singing and guitar playing encouraged by a deeply affected, "olé"-shouting audience surged with emotion and alcohol. The accompanying flamenco dancer, in brightly colored flouncy dresses, projects the mood of the song with rhythmic foot stomping and sharp arm movements. For the best and most authentic flamenco performance, seek out theaters with big-name performers. Avoid tablaos, which are staged for tourists.

seafood


Cuisine

Andalucía's subtle, simple country food stays true to its agrarian roots. Ham is a staple, and cured serrano ham, dried in the fresh mountain air, is served raw and thinly sliced on bread. Also made with ham, migas is a popular country dish of bread crumbs fried with ham fat and garlic, served with grapes and sardines. Other staples include sausage and gazpacho, the famous cold soup made from ripe tomatoes, bread, oil, garlic, salt, and vinegar--refreshing on a sweltering day. And with 85 miles of coastline, Andalucía has its pick of fresh seafood, including mackerel, monkfish, sea bass, and shellfish, often served fried.

bodega

The main meal of the day is served at around 2:30 p.m., and it's a long eight-hour wait for another full meal. That's where tapas come in. Served in bars as bite-size snacks and eaten standing up, tapas are meant to tide you over until your 10 p.m. meal. Cunning bar owners know that tapas absorb alcohol and make you thirsty, so it's rare to find a bar that doesn't serve some sort of tapas. Common tapas include tripe, snails in hot sauce, prawns fried with garlic, meatballs, stuffed olives, cheese, and the ubiquitous tortilla--a thick potato omelette.

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After filling up on tapas and before the last meal of the day, Andalucíans often enjoy a glass of sherry, the area's famous aperitif. Sherry is a fortified wine made only in a corner of Cádiz province near a town called Jerez de la Frontera, where the climate is damp and the soil is chalky, crumbly, and moist. The export of sherry is big business for Andalucía, and 26.5 million gallons of the wine is produced every year. Among the many kinds of sherry is the fragrant oloroso that's served with serrano ham; the dry, chilled fino; manzanilla, most popular in Spain; and the sweet cream sherry, which the British favor.


Essentials

Visas: U.S., Canadian, New Zealand, and Australian residents don't need a visa for visits less than 90 days. EU passport holders may come and go as they please.

Language: Spanish

Currency: peseta, euro

Money matters: Foreign currency can be exchanged for pesetas at all banks, open between 8:30 a.m. and 2 p.m., Monday through Saturday (closed on Saturday from June to September). ATMs are widespread, even in small towns. Most restaurants, hotels, and shops accept traveler's checks, debit cards, and credit cards.

All menu prices include a service charge, but tipping 5 to 10 percent of the total bill is customary in restaurants, bars, and taxis.

Climate: You can generally count on bright sunshine in Andalucía. From June through September, it's hot everywhere in the region, with an average high of 85° to 95°F and a low of 60°F (46°F in the mountains). Winters are mild in lowland areas like Córdoba and Sevilla, and daily highs reach about 68°F, while the evenings drop to 50°F. Mountainous areas like the Alpujarras and Granada have cooler winters, with a high of 68°F and a low down to 32°F after dark. There's virtually no rain in the summer throughout Andalucía. Winter rains start in October, and though they can be heavy, they rarely last more than a day or two.



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