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Culture

Start with 11 official languages, add eight or so black cultures, then mix in Afrikaners, British, Indians, and Europeans who immigrated to South Africa over the centuries, plus the Malays, whom the Dutch brought over as slaves. Blend together to yield a country with a potential identity complex. But this unlikely, disparate group of people who all call themselves South Africans--while not quite yet living harmoniously--are slowly accepting and celebrating the diversity that makes their country one of the most intriguing places on Earth.

South Africa

Ever since the free elections in 1994 brought an end to Apartheid, cultures that had been suppressed have experienced a strong resurgence of pride. The rural crafts and traditions of the Zulu and Ndebele people are now a major draw for tourists. In the cities, the growing popularity of black art galleries, cultural festivals, and traditional music of the townships is evidence that South Africa's tide of intolerance is turning.

Among the tapestry of cultures is the black South African society, of which there are two major groups: the Nguni and the Sotho. Both groups believe in a male deity, polygamy, and paying a dowry. The Nguni, however, don't practice intermarriage and dwell in scattered groups, whereas the Sotho encourage marrying cousins and gather in large communities.

CultureOne subgroup of the Nguni is the Ndebele, characterized by elaborate dress and a love for deep, brilliant colors. Ndebele women wear striped shawls over their shoulders and thick copper rings around their ankles, necks, and wrists, which are often worn an entire lifetime. Dazzling colors are also used to paint their homes and household goods, making a visit to a Ndebele community a little like walking through a Technicolor dream world.

The Xhosa, also a Nguni tribe, hold a strong belief in witches and a reverence for ancestors. Married Xhosa women wear large turban-like hats and are often seen puffing on oversized pipes. Beadwork is important to the Xhosa, as certain jewelry is thought to identify a person to their deceased ancestors.

South Africa

For the Zulu, the largest Nguni group, beadwork also has symbolic meaning. Depending on bead placement and color, bracelets communicate pure love, disgust, anger, yearning, or bliss to another Zulu. These bracelets are widely available to tourists, but be sure to learn the color codes before you unwittingly reveal a yearning for someone. Also sold to tourists are beautiful Zulu baskets, hand-woven from everything from grass to palm fronds to telephone wire.

Like many South African tribes, life for the Southern Sotho is rooted in ceremonies. Major events like birth, puberty, marriage, and death are celebrated with music and dance. Hand-made, flute-like instruments are played by young boys, women play stringed instruments, and men use their mouth to play a stringed instrument called the setolo-tolo. A cheerful rain-making ceremony involves a crowd of young women playing "keep-away" with kitchen utensils.

Cuisine

CuisineSouth African cuisine can be classified as The Good, The Bad, and The Questionable. The Bad: British food. The Brits have a reputation for not seasoning their food, and for some reason they went through the trouble of bringing that tradition to South Africa. Characterized by large cuts of meat and artery-suffocating cream sauce slathered over everything, authentic British fare is best avoided.

Cuisine

The Good: an eclectic mixture of ethnic cuisines with indigenous spices and fruits. Indian curries do wonders to British meat pies, and Malay fruit chutneys add intrigue to Dutch colonial minced-meat pies called boboties. With a blessed abundance of seafood, gourmet chefs serve up surprising concoctions like curried crayfish and salt cod with chili peppers. Native fruits like pomegranates, melons, mangoes, tangerines, and coconut are unexpected yet welcome guests in traditional meat dishes. Dutch desserts--cakes, pies, and custards-haven't been influenced much by South African ethnicities and are quite popular. The hub of all things culinary is Cape Town, where the chefs are innovative, the ocean's bounty is in close proximity, and the finest South African wines are just a cork's pop away.

Traditional indigenous dishes center on the ubiquitous pap, porridge made from maize. Pap is often accompanied by vegetables spiced with peanuts and chili peppers. Stews accented with cloves and anise are popular; Nelson Mandela's favorite dish is said to be umngqusho, a stew made with dried maize kernels, sugar-beans, lemons, butter, onions, potatoes, and chilis. Other indigenous favorites include curried black tripe and mopani worms, which bring us to The Questionable: Consuming black intestines or stringy, peppery caterpillars may raise questions a few hours later.

Essentials

Visas: Tourists from Japan, the U.S., and the European Union do not need visas for visits up to 90 days.

Health concerns: Malaria is a risk mainly confined to the eastern half of the country. Though also found mainly in the east, it's possible to contract the parasitic disease Bilharzia anywhere. Check with locals before you drink water or go for a swim.

Currency: rand

Money matters: Traveler's checks are accepted, and most banks change them for a 1 percent commission. Credit cards, especially Visa and Mastercard, are also widely accepted. ATMs are plentiful in cities, but don't expect to see them outside of major metropolitan areas. Make sure your can access money from Cirrus ATMs. It is customary to tip caddies, taxi drivers, hotel and railway porters, room maids, stewards, waiters/waitresses, tour guides, and game rangers 10-15 percent.

A Value-Added Tax (VAT) of 14 percent is levied on all South African goods. You can reclaim this tax at the airport if you approach a customs official and produce a tax invoice given to you by the shop attendant. The VAT Reclaim Office will refund the appropriate amount.

Driving: Drive on the left. Road signs are posted in kilometers.

Climate: South Africa's coast has a Mediterranean climate, while the interior is more moderate. The seasons are the exact opposite of the Northern Hemisphere-their summer is our winter, and vice versa. Generally, the summer temperatures can get as hot as 100°F during the day and 68°F at night. Winter brings a daily high of 68°F and 41°F after dark. The rainy season stretches from late October through March.



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