Delhi, India — Where to Go
Delhi Sightseeing Overview
Modern Delhi is really two cities: Old Delhi is a medieval web of narrow, crowded streets woven beneath the Red Fort's imposing walls which was built by Emperor Shah Jahan in the 17th century. New Delhi boasts broad, leafy boulevards, grand colonial buildings and gracious Lutyens bungalows, and was built by the British who took power in 1803.
Delhi has been the capital of India since the country gained independence from Britain in 1947. Since then, the city has prospered owing to economic growth and increased job opportunities. This has attracted migrants, and a rapidly expanding population that has brought greater poverty to the city – almost half of Delhi's inhabitants live in slums and shantytowns.
However, Delhi’s vibrancy is unrivalled. New modern offices, apartment blocks and shopping malls now punctuate the cityscape. Meanwhile, the colonnaded circles of Connaught Place teeming with shops, banks, bars, restaurants and hotels are getting a facelift in the run-up to the 2010 Commonwealth Games.
Most sights have a different admission fee for Indians and foreigners. Admission fees for foreigners are sometimes displayed in US Dollars but are payable in the Rupee equivalent.
Delhi Tourist Information
India Tourism Delhi (Government of India Tourist Office)
88 Janpath
Tel: (011) 2332 0008.
Website: www.incredibleindia.org
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat 0900-1400.
Key Attractions in Delhi, India
Lal Qila (Red Fort)
Constructed by the great Mughal builder Shah Jahan between 1638-1648, the mammoth Red Fort represents the peak of the Mughal dynasty's power. Today the imposing sandstone walls and battlements continue to dominate Old Delhi's skyline, but the fort is a mere shadow of its former self. The fort's main gate, Lahore Gate, so named because it faces towards Lahore now in Pakistan, was a potent symbol in the fight for independence. It continues to serve as the backdrop to the prime minister's address to the nation on Independence Day (15 August).
Entrance from Lahore Gate
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1800.
Admission charge: Y.
Jama Masjid
Jama Masjid is India's largest mosque and is one of Shah Jahan's masterpieces. Building began in 1644 but was not completed until 1658 and when you see the size of it, it's easy to understand why; the enormous courtyard can accommodate a massive 25,000 worshippers. There are three gateways, four towers and two red-and-white striped sandstone and marble minarets, each standing 40m (130ft) tall. Visitors who climb the 122 narrow steps to the top of the southern minaret will be rewarded with magnificent views. Dress conservatively; women should bring a scarf to cover the head and must be accompanied by a male when climbing the minaret.
Matya Mahal, Bho Jala
Tel: (011) 2326 8344.
Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk; closed during prayer times.
Admission charge: Y (for minaret only).
Qutb Minar
The Qutb Minar complex houses the oldest Islamic monuments in India. Built towards the end of the 12th century to commemorate the Muslim conquest of Delhi, the Qutb Minar is a grand tower that rises 72.5m (238ft) high. At its foot stands the Quwwat-ul-Islam Masjid, the first mosque to be built in India in 1193. So anxious were Delhi's new rulers to erect a mosque, they shamelessly pilfered 27 Hindu and Jain temples for building materials. Consequently, many of the pillars surrounding the courtyard are carved with Hindu iconography. In the courtyard is a 7m-high (23ft) Iron Pillar, dating back to AD375.
Qutb Minar complex
Tel: (011) 2664 3856.
Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk.
Admission charge: Y.
Rashtrapati Bhavan and Rajpath
Rajpath (Kingsway) is the grand approach to Lutyen's Delhi. Lined with trees, fountains and pools, this ceremonial boulevard hosts the colorful Republic Day parade every 26 January. At the western end stands Rashtrapati Bhavan (President's House), an immense palace originally built as the Viceroy’s residence but now the official home of the President of India. Witness the Changing of the Guard in the forecourt every Saturday morning. The neighboring Mughal Gardens are open to the public on selected day in February/March. At the eastern end lies India Gate, a popular picnic spot on balmy evenings and weekends.
Rajpath
Website: www.presidentofindia.nic.in
Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk.
Admission charge: N.
National Museum
It takes a good few hours to even skim the surface of Indian culture at the National Museum. Highlights include excavations from Indus Valley civilization sites, carved pillars and statues from various Indian empires, Central Asian antiquities and Tibetan manuscripts. But there's much, much more. One gallery houses over 300 musical instruments while another displays Mughal clothing, tapestries, ornaments and weapons. The admission ticket includes an informative audio-guide in English, Japanese, Hindi, German or French (you will need ID to obtain an audio-guide).
Janpath
Tel: (011) 2301 9272.
Website: www.nationalmuseumindia.gov.in
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700.
Admission charge: Y.
Chandni Chowk
The bazaars that surround Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi offer a colorful, heaving and chaotic slice of Delhi life. This is the old city's famed shopping strip leading off to a labyrinthine maze of shops selling everything from fish and poultry to second-hand household products, gemstones, turbans, textiles and even spare car parts. Main Bazaar at Paharganj is backpacker central and the place to pick up cheap t-shirts and more. The covered Gadodial Market is the wholesale spice market while Chawri Bazaar is packed with shops specializing in wholesale paper ware as well as copper and brass figurines.
Chandni Chowk
Website: www.chandnichowkbazaar.com
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800; most shops are closed on Sunday.
Admission charge: N.
Humayun's Tomb
Often regarded as a mere practice-run for the Taj Mahal, beautiful Humayun's Tomb is a stunning example of Mughal architecture. Built in the mid-16th century, the tomb reflects the traditional Persian style; a squat building with high arched entrances and a bulbous dome-tipped roof. The tomb is set in 12 hectares (30 acres) of gardens designed along Persian lines; shaded and geometric, crisscrossed with waterways and paths. There are other smaller tombs too, including that of the emperor's favorite barber.
Lodhi Road and Mathura Road
Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk.
Admission charge: Y.
Baha'i House of Worship
Better known as the Lotus Temple, the stunning Baha'i House of Worship was designed by Iranian-Canadian architect Fariburz Sahba in 1986 as a tribute to the lotus flower (a divine flower in many Eastern religions). Giant white petals of marble open out from nine pools and walkways in the shape of an unfolding lotus, symbolising the nine spiritual paths of the Baha'i faith. Inside the central hall rises to a height of over 30m (98ft). Photography is not permitted inside the temple and visitors are also requested to refrain from talking.
Kalkaji
Tel: (011) 2644 4029.
Website: www.bahaindia.org/temple
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0830-1230 and 1600-1730.
Admission charge: N.
Crafts Museum
The delightfully calm Crafts Museum has a series of fascinating galleries showcasing an array of crafts from around the country. There are over 20,000 exhibits including vibrant tribal masks, old silver jewelry, terracotta statuettes, intricate textiles and elaborate woodcarvings. The outdoor section has been designed to replicate a traditional Indian village and has an area where artisans from around the country can sell their handicrafts direct to visitors.
Pragati Maidan, Bhairon Marg
Tel: (011) 2337 1641.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700.
Admission charge: N.
Purana Qila
The crumbling remains of the Purana Qila are known as the sixth city of Delhi and represent a brief interruption in Delhi's Mughal history when the Afghan ruler Sher Shah defeated Emperor Humayun. Of the buildings still standing, the Qila-i-Kuhna Masjid (Mosque of Sher Shah), is quite stunning. The Sher Mandal is an octagonal observatory and library. The north gate, Talaqi-Darwaza, has been partially rebuilt and gives a good impression of how formidable the fortifications would have been in their heyday.
Mathura Road
Tel: (011) 2435 3178.
Opening hours: Daily dawn-dusk (fortress); daily 0800-1830 (museum).
Admission charge: Y.
National Gallery of Modern Art
Occupying the Maharaja of Jaipur's former palace, this gallery contains an extensive collection of contemporary Indian artwork including works by one of India's best known contemporary artists MF Husain. There are also works by painters of the Bengali Renaissance and 19th and early 20th-century paintings by British artists Thomas Daniell and his nephew William. There is also an art reference library on site.
Jaipur House, India Gate
Tel: (011) 2338 2835.
Website: www.ngmaindia.gov.in
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700.
Admission charge: Y.
Akshardham Temple
The colossal Akshardham Temple is rather inconveniently located on the city fringes but is well worth the trip - set aside at least a couple of hours. The stunning pink sandstone and marble Hindu temple incorporates an attractive mix of traditional Indian design styles including Mughal, Orissan, Rajasthani and Gujarati. The soaring domes, beautifully carved pillars and 20,000-plus carved deities are the temple's star attractions.
National Highway 24, near Noida
Tel: (011) 2201 6688.
Website: www.akshardham.com
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1900 (April-Sept); 0900-1800 (Oct-March).
Admission charge: N but entrance charge for exhibitions.
Tughluqabad
Southeast of the city lie the decaying fortifications of Tughluqabad, built in 1321, and once the setting for the third city of Delhi. Little remains of the fort today apart from some towers, halls, and 6.5km (4 miles) of stone walls. Legend has it that Ghiyas-ud-din Tughlaq, the founder of the Tughlaq dynasty, was so passionate about his vision that he ordered all laborers to work on his fort. This so incensed the Sufi mystic Saint Nizamuddin Auliya that he issued a curse proclaiming that only herdsmen would inhabit the fort. Indeed the only living things visitors are likely to see today are goats, donkeys and farmers.
Tughluqabad.
Opening hours: Daily 0830-1730.
Admission charge: Y.
Further Distractions
Lodhi Gardens
An oasis of shaded tranquility the Lodhi Gardens are a welcome refuge from the dusty Delhi streets. Spread over 36 hectares (90 acres), these extensive gardens boast a fine collection of tropical shrubs and trees in addition to medieval monuments. Scattered among the well-tended gardens, you'll find a number of tombs dating back to the Lodhi Sultanate (1451-1526). These include the Sheesh Gumbad, the Bara Gumbad and the Tomb of Mohammed Shah. Picnickers flock to the gardens on Sundays.
Lodhi Road, south-central New Delhi
Opening hours: Daily.
Admission charge: N.
National Rail Museum
Trainspotters of all ages will love this museum with its open-air display of old steam locomotives and rolling stock. Spread over 4.5 hectares (11 acres), this excellent museum houses 30 trains and old carriages and includes an 1855 steam engine and lavish carriages belonging to British and Indian grandees. There's a 'Joy Train' ride (great for kids) and on Sundays the Steam Mono Rail is open to all. The somewhat down-at-heel indoor gallery features train models, antique clocks, railway furniture, and historical photographs.
Chanakyapuri
Tel: (011) 2688 1826.
Website: www.nationalrailmuseum.org
Opening hours: April-Sept 0930-1930; Oct-Mar 0930-1730.
Admission charge: Y
Gandhi Smriti (Birla House)
Birla House is where Mahatma Gandhi was shot dead by a Hindu extremist on 30 January 1948. The house is now a poignant shrine to the Father of the Nation with a comprehensive indoor museum with photographs and paintings depicting Gandhi's life. Gandhi's possessions are on display in his bedroom (he had been staying at the house as a guest) and concrete footsteps display his final steps. A small pavilion, known as the Martyr's Column, marks the exact spot where he died.
5 Tees January Marg
Tel: (011) 2301 2843.
Admission charge: N.
