Damascus, Syria — Where to Go
Damascus Sightseeing Overview
Damascus, the capital of Syria, lies on the Barada River in the shadow of Mount Qassioun and the Anti-Lebanon Mountains. The original settlement was founded at al-Ghouta oasis, where gardens and orchards were irrigated with the Barada River's melted snow water. Archaeological finds have made it possible to date the oasis' first human settlement to around 4000BC, which means Damascus can claim to be one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited cities.
The city's dramatic sprawl of recent decades now incorporates the oasis. Because of the abundance of water, many travelers have described Damascus as an earthly paradise, particularly after the hardships of traveling through the desert. It is said that when Prophet Mohammed stood with his caravan on Mount Qassioun and looked at the city, he refused to enter because he believed that men can only enter paradise once: if he entered Damascus he would have to forsake the heavenly paradise.
Damascus has long been an important caravan stop and trading center, once famous for dried fruit, wine, olive oil soap, wool, linens and silks. The patterned fabric, known as damask, was named for the silk fabrics woven in Damascus. The old city, classified in 1979 as a UNESCO World Heritage site, is vibrant with people, but the atmosphere is serene and laid back.
At the heart of the old city is one of the oldest and most sacred Islamic monuments, the Great Umayyad Mosque, resplendent with stunning golden mosaics. Nearby the remnants of the Roman Temple of Jupiter are still standing, and the perfume souk leads to the 18th-century Ottoman Azem Palace.
The only road to cut through the warren of the old city is Straight Street, which leads through the Christian quarter to the Roman city gate of Bab Sharqi, the Chapel of Ananias and the modern St Paul's chapel.
The National Museum, in the new city, is a treasure trove of the country's finest archaeological finds. Next door is the Tekkiye as-Sulaymaniyye Mosque built by the master architect Sinan, and the tekke (monastery for whirling dervishes), now the Army Museum and a handicraft bazaar.
At night Damascenes love going up to Mount Qassioun for cooler air and sweeping views over their magnificent city.
Damascus Tourist Information
The main tourist office in Damascus is near the Cham Palace Hotel on Sharia 29 May (www.syriatourism.org). The smaller office next to the Handicrafts Souk near the Tekkiye as-Sulaymaniyye is often closed. Both provide free maps and old-fashioned brochures but offer very little practical information on the city. More information is available online at www.damascus-online.com and www.oldamascus.com.
Key Attractions in Damascus, Syria
The Great Umayyad Mosque
The splendid early eighth-century Umayyad Mosque was built on a site that has been sacred for thousands of years. It has been an Aramaic temple, a Roman temple and a Byzantine cathedral. The shrine, said to contain St John the Baptist's head, is still an important pilgrimage spot, as is the tomb of Salah ad-Din (Saladin) just outside the courtyard. More than 12,000 workmen helped to create the superb golden mosaics that once surrounded the entire courtyard, but only the Paradise Panel is left, representing paradise, or Damascus itself.
Tourist entrance at Bab al-Amara, Old City, Damascus
UNESCO site: Y.
The Old City
Some 5km (3 miles) of walls surround the well-preserved medieval city of Damascus, with the Great Umayyad Mosque at its heart. It is a place for strolling through the labyrinthine alleys and busy souks, admiring the fine palaces, madrasas (Quranic schools), caravanserais and mosques on the way, or whiling time away in one of the many cafés.
Old City, Damascus
UNESCO site: Y.
Souk al-Hamidiyeh
Located within the old city walls, Souk al-Hamidiyeh is Damascus's most famous souk (market). Built in stages during the Ottoman era - the eastern section in 1780 and the western section in 1883 - the souk has undergone numerous renovations, but it retains its old-world charm. You can find traditional Syrian silver and gold jewelry, and intricately carved wooden furniture. Be prepared to bargain.
Old City, Damascus
UNESCO site: Y.
The Christian Quarter and Straight Street
Straight Street, the Via Recta, has been the main east-west thoroughfare since Roman/Hellenistic times. Just off the street are the grand Damascene houses of the Christian Quarter, now often turned into bars and restaurants. At the end is the Roman gate of Bab Sharqi, and nearby the underground Chapel of St Ananias, where it is believed that Ananias sheltered St Paul after his blinding conversion. St Paul's Chapel marks the spot where St Paul was lowered over the city walls to escape his Roman persecutors.
Straight Street, Damascus
UNESCO site: Y.
The National Museum
The museum has many treasures from Syria's amazing archaeological sites. Highlights include the sculpture and jewelry from Palmyra, the second-century interior of the Dura Europos synagogue, the world's first alphabet on the Ugarit tablets and the eerie priest statues of Mari.
Sharia Shoukri al-Quwatly, Damascus
Azem Palace
One of the most beautiful palaces of the old city, the 18th-century palace of the Ottoman governor Assad Pasha al-Azem has several rooms illustrating traditional crafts and culture.
Souk al-Bazuriye, Damascus
UNESCO site: Y.
Further Distractions
Maristan Nur ad-Din
The Maristan Nur ad-Din, a 12th-century lunatic asylum, was used until the 19th century. Patients were soothed by music and the splashing waters of fountains. Now an interesting museum of medicine, it shows just how advanced the Arabs were on that front.
Just off Sharia al-Mu'awiya, Old City, Damascus
Tekkiye as-Sulaymaniyye
This exquisite mosque was commissioned by the Ottoman Sultan Sulayman the Magnificent and built by his master architect Sinan in a mixed Turkish and Syrian style. Next door is a tekke or monastery, now strangely filled with army planes from the Army Museum, and the Selimiye Madrasa, a center for traditional crafts.
Sharia Shoukri al-Quwatly, Damascus
