Venice Travel Guide

Restaurants in Venice, Italy

Restaurants
Expensive

FortunyRestaurant
Enjoying an intimate dinner with a loved one at the Cipriani's signature restaurant is the quintessential Venice experience and should not be missed by anyone who can afford it. Feast on homemade black noodles served with scallops, clams and broccoli sauce, followed by a rack of lamb in a porcini mushroom and black truffle. Lunchtime sees the Fortuny menu served by the swimming pool and an excellent value antipasti buffet from Friday to Sunday, which includes lobster. Complimentary transportation on the hotel's private launch from Piazza San Marco adds to the glamour of it all.

Giudecca 10
Tel: (041) 520 7744.
Website: www.hotelcipriani.it

Harry'sBar
The American Bar, made famous by Hemingway, obliges most self-respecting travelers, particularly Americans, to pay at least one visit. The Bellini, a peach, prosecco and grenadine cocktail, was invented here and is always excellent. The ever-crowded restaurant offers just 14 tables, snugly nestling beneath the exposed wooden beams and antique lamps. The house specialty, John Dory with tomato and capers, is recommended. This is a good venue for celebrity spotting, although a celebrity wallet is needed for those looking to dine in style.

Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1323
Tel: (041) 528 5777.
Website: www.harrysbarvenezia.com

IlSolesullaVeciaCavana
Il Sole sulla Vecia Cavana serves Venetian and Italian cuisines with a modern twist, using fresh ingredients and delicious Adriatic fish. Try appetizing starters like smoked swordfish, carpaccio with strawberry sauce or fresh pasta filled with sea bass, peanuts and pistachio. For mains, sample salmon fillet wrapped in potato crust, served with spinach and mustard sauce, or old Venetian favorites like grilled cuttlefish and polenta.

Rio Tera' SS Apostoli 4624
Tel: (041) 528 7106.
Website: www.veciacavana.it

LaTerrazzaDanieli
In summer, the rooftop restaurant at the luxury Hotel Danieli affords perhaps Venice's most famous view from the Riva degli Schiavoni over San Giorgio Maggiore and the lagoon. The tagliatelle with truffles, baked sea bass and tiramisu all come highly recommended, as does a sublime Adriatic seafood grill overflowing with quality white fish. Their bar menu, served from 1500 to 1800, is a great way of sampling the experience without breaking the bank. Reservations are recommended throughout the season.

Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 4196
Tel: (041) 522 6480.
Website: www.luxurycollection.com/danieli

LocandaCipriani
Long a favorite with English royalty and Hollywood stars, this escape on the island of Torcello has been famous since its ‘discovery' by Ernest Hemingway. The Gritti and Portico rooms overlook the garden, which boasts al fresco seating during the warmer months. Try the restaurant's signature dish of beef carpaccio and John Dory 'alla Carlina'. Reservations are essential and the restaurant is closed on Tuesday.

Piazza San Fosca 29, Isola di Torcello
Tel: (041) 730 150.
Website: www.locandacipriani.com

CaffeQuadri
Like a Merchant Ivory film set, Caffe Quadri serves up a big helping of Venetian history, combining as it does a view over St Mark's Square with palatial furnishings. The refined cuisine draws the crowds, pushing up the prices. The saddle of rabbit with ham and shallots glazed in balsamic vinegar is fantastic and the ravioli with veal and white truffle sauce is a must for those who want to splash out.

Piazza San Marco 120, San Marco
Tel: (041) 522 2105.
Website: www.quadrivenice.com

Da Fiore
The food at this Michelin-starred oasis is a million miles away from its homely rustic origins, but you couldn't guess by the unassuming facade. The local cognoscenti and visiting celebrities like to see and be seen here, so book ahead. The highlight on the menu are fresh seafood treats with a twist, while impressed diners can also take away the restaurant's own cookbook or sign up for their cookery courses.

Calle del Scaleter
Tel: (041) 721 308.
Website: www.dafiore.net

IlCanova
One of Venice's grandest dining rooms seats 75, but it often feels like you are the only people there with personal service in this candlelit retreat. The stand-out starter is a lobster salad with cannelloni beans, with mains like scallops and king prawn kebabs or anglerfish medallions with capers, Ligurian olives and fresh tomatoes. A glass of prosecco to start, a bottle of excellent Veneto wine and a grappa to wash it all down completes one of the Divine Republic's most sensational dining experiences.

San Marco, 1243
Tel: (041) 528 9840.
Website: www.baglionihotels.com

Harry'sDolci
There is no better place to watch the famous sunset over Venice's skyline than from the open-air terrace of Harry's Dolci, located on the island of Giudecca. The highlight of this luxurious and elegant restaurant is the romantic terrace that overlooks the Giudecca Canal. Famous for its zabaglione (a Marsala-flavored mousse) and rich pastries, this Cipriani outlet offers both snacks and full meals.

Giudecca 773
Tel: (041) 522 4844.
Website: www.cipriani.com

Moderate

AlCovo
Close to the Arsenal, this small restaurant, decorated with 1960s paintings and Murano lamps, specializes in historical fresh fish dishes of the lagoon. The goby fish (used for the soup or served with gnocchi) is excellent, as are the scallops with pasta, and the mouth-watering chocolate cake. Alternatively, diners can follow owner Cesare Benelli's recommendations on the catch of the day. The tranquil location, professional expertise and personal touch add to the appeal of the two dining rooms.

Campiello della Pescaria, Castello 3968
Tel: (041) 522 3812.

RistoranteCantinaCanaletto
Tucked away in an inauspicious street not far from St Mark's Square, Ristorante Cantina Canaletto is a real treat. Split into two distinctive areas, a serene dining room and a buzzing wine bar, the classically styled restaurant has beamed ceilings, and an impressive array of wine bottles adorn the walls. Highlights of the menu include white polenta with lagoon shrimps, the best mortadella of Bologna made by Pasquai, grilled sea bass and grilled lobster. An excellent choice for seafood lovers is the starter platter, with eight seafood tasters.

Castello 5490
Tel: (041) 521 2661.
Website: www.cantinacanaletto.it

Aromi
Instantly amongst the hottest tables in town on opening in 2007, the Aromi has far greater ambitions than most bland hotel restaurants. Take a ringside seat outside with views across to the Zattere, and settle in for an upmarket Venetian treat. Highlights on the menu include dishes laced with local spider crab, mantis shrimp and fresh vegetables from the Rialto Market. Creative touches include mussels and clams wrapped in sea bream with a saffron broth. The chocolate soufflé dessert is sublime.

Hilton Molino Stucky, Giudecca 810
Tel: (041) 272 3311.
Website: www.molinostuckyhilton.com

Muro
Located right by the Rialto Market, just off the main tourist drag, Muro has become a hit amongst locals and tourists alike. Choose between munching snacks and a glass of wine in the osteria-style bar area on entering or pop upstairs to the tiny restaurant. The straightforward menu offers a variety of treats, many culled from the nearby market, while the pasta or risotto of the day is always a good option.

Rialto Market, San Polo 222
Tel: (041) 523 7495.

Naranzaria
For buzz and location, Naranzaria is hard to beat. This fun and funky eatery is just a stone's throw from the Rialto. With bright and buzzy staff and simply prepared ingredients, it's as much a favorite with trendy Venetians as it is with savvy visitors. Options range from salted cod cooked in tomatoes, black olives and olive oil with clams, through to sushi and sashimi dishes. The wine list is equally creative and impressive. Be sure to book a table on the outside terrace with its sweeping views of the Grand Canal. Closed on Mondays.

Erbaria, San Polo 130
Tel: (041) 724 1035.
Website: www.naranzaria.it

OsteriaEnotecaSanMarco
This classy osteria, located a stone's throw from Piazza San Marco, is a step up in both quality and decor from many of the tourist-orientated eateries. Noodles with lobster and tender venison are amongst the appetizing dishes on offer in the relaxed and rustic setting. The extensive wine list is also excellent. For some, the fact that you cannot get bar service during restaurant hours may grate slightly since it breaks with the tradition of the osteria.

Frezzeria, San Marco 1610
Tel: (041) 528 5242.

Cheap

OsteriaallaBotte
This small and traditional hideaway rewards those who manage to find it with a variety of affordable wines sold by the glass, carafe or bottle. The mixed tapas cichetemista offered in the bar includes tasty Venetian staples, such as sarde in soar (marinated sardines) while the simple cuisine served in the small back dining room is both hearty and delicious. The lasagne al forno and pasta and fagioli bean soup are highly recommended.

Campo San Bartolomeo, San Marco 5482
Tel: (041) 520 9775.

AlGiardinettodaSeverino
Conveniently located for Piazza San Marco and the Rialto, this friendly and intimate restaurant is popular with local gondoliers and has been run by the same family for over half a century. Housed in the 15th-century chapel of the Zorzi family, Al Giardinetto boasts vaulted ceilings and a frescoed fireplace. The restaurant offers dining in the vineyard courtyard during summer. Venetian staples dominate the menu, such as calves' liver with fried onions.

Ruga Giuffa, Castello 4928
Tel: (041) 528 5332.
Website: www.algiardinetto.it

AquaPazza
Located on an attractive square, this Mediterranean restaurant plays host to a buzzing mix of locals and tourists. The fish specialties such as a starter of peppered mussels or the fish risotto for two are delicious, as are the main dishes. For the more budget conscious, the restaurant's pizzas are good value. In summer there are chic white molded plastic chairs outside on the square.

Campo San Angelo, San Marco 3808/10
Tel: (041) 277 0688.

Brek
This self-service canteen-style chain restaurant located near the train station offers a variety of simple pizza and pasta dishes along with mixed salads, fresh fruit and sweet desserts. The pasta dishes are usually cooked to order in front of you. This healthier and more satisfying alternative to greasy burgers and stale sandwiches also sells alcoholic beverages at reasonable prices.

Lista di Spagna, Canneregio 124
Tel: (041) 244 0158.

Website: www.brek.com

DaRenato
This is poveracucina (poor man's food) at its best. Renato, the chef and owner, offers a bargain alternative to the gourmet Da Fiore around the corner. His pasta and bean soup is part of an old Venetian tradition, kept on the stove all day to provide an all-in-one meal (piatto unico) for weary gondoliers. The restaurant is highly regarded for its food rather than its interior, which is basic, although inoffensive.

Rio Terà Secondo, San Polo 2245/A
Tel: (041) 524 1922.

TrattoriaallaMadonna
Near the Rialto Bridge, this large bustling trattoria is good value and a favorite with locals and visitors alike. In the daytime, the long tables laid out across the terracotta floor are a great informal place to tuck into a bowl of pasta with fagioli beans. In the evening, the more serious dining gets under way, with seafood specialties such as black squid with polenta and lobster on the menu. The restaurant also offers good meat choices.

Calle della Madonna, San Polo 594
Tel: (041) 522 3824.
Website: www.ristoranteallamadonna.com

Nightlife

Visitors expecting debauchery and nefarious nights in the licentious 'City of Revel', which Venice was once dubbed, are often disappointed. With so few young people able to afford to live in the city and most places set up for tourists, the city's nightlife lacks real soul. In short, visitors to Venice will be hard-pushed to find entertainment beyond their plate of cuttlefish risotto. Most of the action takes place in the early evening, when Venetians take their daily stroll or passeggiata along the Riva degli Schiavioni or to their neighborhood campo. Sometimes they stop off for an aperitif - preferably a glass of chilled prosecco, the local white wine that fizzes on the tongue.

For a quick tipple, the swankiest venues are concentrated around St Mark's Square, where you can spend your euros with decadent abandon. Other more bohemian areas are in the back streets of Cannaregio and San Polo, where you can swill a beaker of local wine alongside fishermen and students. Punters have to be over 18 to drink and most pubs close at either 2400 or 0100, although some places stay open later, especially those attached to hotels.

Due to problems with noise pollution, Venetian nightclubs are virtually non-existent and those that do exist operate a well-honed entry system that favors short-skirted women. More places open on the Lido, in the summer, when you can rub shoulder pads with Hollywood's glitziest. However, for the rest of the year, the best of the city's bright lights are the lanterns on the boats twinkling in the lagoon.

For information and listings, A Guest in Venice (www.aguestinvenice.com) is published fortnightly in summer and monthly during the winter season and is available from good hotels.

Bars: Harry's Bar, Calle Vallaresso, on the western edge of St Mark's Square, is the home of the legendary Bellini - a cocktail of prosecco, fresh peach juice and a dash of grenadine, although this institution is not for the financially faint hearted. No introduction to Venice (or prosecco) is complete without one. The bar is owned by the Cipriani family and has played host to Hollywood's most rich and glamorous. The two grand old dames, Florian and Quadri, on St Mark's Square may seem exorbitant for a coffee, but a bottle of wine with nibbles is reasonable when it comes with live classical music and a stunning panorama of one of the world's most famous squares.

A bar with a great Grand Canal view is at the Hotel Monaco, Calle Vallaresso, San Marco. Take a seat on the terrace and watch the vaporetti trundling by and tourists being herded on to gondolas. If you want to nip to the adjoining terrace restaurant make sure you're not wearing shorts.

Campo Santa Margherita was once the only haunt of Venice's young and beautiful, with its smattering of trendy cafes and bars and slightly grungy ambience. Margaret Duchamp is one of the liveliest options on the Campo, with outside tables, a trendy interior and a decent pint of Guinness, while just off the Campo Café Blue, Calle della Scuola, also does great Guinness, other draught beers and has its own wee whisky bar in British pub style surrounds,

The Rialto Market area is also something of bijou hub of Venetian hipsters, just a stone's throw away from the tourist-thronged historic bridge. A bar to look out for is Al Merca, Campo Cesare Battisti gia Bella Vienna, where spritz is the drink of choice. Osteria alla Postali, Fondamenta Rio Marin 821, run by a Venetian ex-pilot, is also a great place to lounge next to a cosy canal, sipping a Campari bitter and watching the gondolas drift by.

Clubs: Since these are few and far between in Venice, most young people head for Mestre, where there is more space and less noise restriction, or further afield to the student town of Padua. But if you are stuck in Venice and you want to dance the night away, there are two dancefloors to choose from. Piccolo Mondo, Calle Contarini Corfu, is one touristy option, while Round Midnight, Fondamenta dei Pugni, brings a tiny bit of dancing action to Campo Santa Margherita for a more alternative crowd.

Live Music: Venues for live music in the city are scarce. The late opening (until 0300) Bacaro Jazz, Salizada del Fontego dei Tedeschi, San Marco (www.bacarojazz.com), is popular for hot jazz and a cool clientele. The wonderfully named Pizzeria 900 Jazz Club, Campiello del Sansoni, San Polo (www.jazz900.com), is a nightmare to find but well worth the effort for the quality Italian and international live jazz.