Marseille Travel Guide

Restaurants in Marseille, France

Restaurants
Recommended restaurants

Chez Fonfon
Nestled in the Vallon des Auffes, a picturesque small calanque (creek) tucked away underneath the Corniche, is a legendary restaurant in Marseille. The area is still home to fishermen and their families, so of course the focus of Chez Fonfon is very much on seafood dishes. One of the best places in town to try the famous bouillabaisse.

140 rue Vallon des Auffes, 7e
Tel: (04) 9152 1438.
Website: www.chez-fonfon.com
Price: $$$

Kim Do
This spotless tiny Japanese restaurant is tucked away behind the Palais Longchamp. Friendly service, as-fresh-as-it-gets food and intimate atmosphere. The sushi, sashimi and other offerings from the Land of the Rising Sun are all excellent, and as there is an open plan kitchen, so you can watch the chef rolling your sushi before eating them. The small size and big popularity of this restaurant mean that bookings are essential.

4 rue Capazza, 4e
Tel: (04) 9134 0008.
Price: $$

La Cloche à Fromage
La Cloche à Fromage is a popular restaurant on the place Thiars where all the dishes on the menu feature cheese, be it in salad, sauces or even desserts. Check out the enormous cheese bell after which the restaurant is named, where some 70 varieties of cheeses vie for diners' attention. Be warned though: you won't be able to taste them all in one sitting.

27 cours Estienne d'Orves, 1e
Tel: (04) 9154 8538.
Price: $$

La Côte de Boeuf
A restaurant with a well established reputation for the quality of its meat (cooked either on the grill or in a woodfire oven) and its excellent wine list. Wood, stone walls and a fireplace make for a cosy atmosphere. More expensive, but more upmarket, than L'EntrecôteduPort (which is good too) just around the corner. Closed Sunday.

35 cours d'Estienne d'Orves, 1e
Tel: (04) 9154 8908.
Price: $$$

La Ferme
La Ferme (The Farm) is one of the best restaurants in Marseille. Chef Raymond Borso combines uncommon flavors to create some unique, but always delicious dishes with a strong Provençal accent. His boldness is rewarded by the loyalty diners show by returning time and again. The cosy setting is perfect for a romantic evening. Reservations recommended.

23 rue Sainte, 1e
Tel: (04) 9133 2112.
Price: $$$-$$$$

La Kahena
A well established Tunisian restaurant near the Vieux Port, La Kahena packs the punters in every night, despite severe local competition. The restaurant specializes in couscous, of which it offers 10 different varieties, including merguez (spicy beef and/or lamb sausage seasoned with cumin), fish, lamb, chicken and ‘royal', with a bit of everything in it. Other dishes include tajines, mechoui, and all sorts of grilled vegetables. Wash the lot down with a mint tea.

2 rue de la République, 2e
Tel: (04) 9190 6193.
Price: $

La Rose de Marmara
Want to try something different? This is the only Armenian restaurant in Marseille, and on Wednesdays you can eat here and pay what you like (or rather what you think your meal was worth). A great way to discover a little known, but delicious cuisine. Friendly service, live jazz every Friday. Closed Sunday and Monday.

30 rue Breteuil, 6e
Tel: (04) 9153 3142.
Website: www.rosedemarmara.com

Le Miramar
Since the mid-1960s, aficionados of bouillabaisse have been flocking to Le Miramar for a taste of the flavorful fish soup, Marseille's world famous culinary specialty. Believe it or not, bouillabaisse (a good one never comes cheap, because of the sheer number of fish needed to make it) was once a rough-and-tumble recipe devised by fishermen as a way of using the least desirable portion of their catch.

12 quai du Port, 2e
Tel: (04) 9191 1040.
Website: www.bouillabaisse.com
Price: $$$$

Le Petit Nice
The restaurant is housed in the hotel of the same name on the Corniche and was established in 1917. Since then, three generations of chefs have ensured its well deserved reputation as one of the city's best tables. Le Petit Nice is the only restaurant in Marseille boasting three Michelin-stars, and this is reflected in the prices. However, a beautiful location with breathtaking views over the bay, professional service and delicious, sophisticated local cuisine combine to make this venue perfect for a special occasion.

Anse de Maldormé, corniche J F Kennedy, 7e
Tel: (04) 9159 2592.
Website: www.petitnice-passedat.com
Price: $$$$+

L'Epuisette
An idyllic setting at the entrance to the Vallon des Auffes, affording fantastic views of the Big Blue and the islands (especially beautiful at sunset), is only one of the draws at this upmarket restaurant, which serves some of the best seafood and fish dishes in the city.

Vallon des Auffes, 7e
Tel: (04) 9152 1782.
Website: www.l-epuisette.com
Price: $$$$

Les Amis de Georges
This restaurant, located between the Castellane and Baille metro stations, serves tasty vegetarian food using GM-free ingredients only. Choose from one of the many assiettes (plates) available, or create your own. Vegan options are also available. Friendly, relaxed atmosphere.

19 place Gouffé, 5e
Tel: (04) 9178 2828.
Website: http://bioworld.free.fr/
Price: $-$$

Les Arcenaulx
Located in grand surroundings in Louis XIV's arsenal, this restaurant, owned by local publisher Jeanne Lafitte, is part of a complex that also houses two bookshops. The restaurant specializes in traditional local dishes such as pieds etpaquets and daube. Several reception rooms are also available. Closed on Sunday.

25 cours Estienne d'Orves, 1e
Tel: (04) 9159 8030.
Website: www.les-arcenaulx.com
Price: $$$

Le Shambhala
For something different and more peaceful, try Le Shambala, a very zen (and truly unique) retreat in the lively La Plaine district. Here one can choose from hundreds of teas from around the world in a ‘Moroccan themed' room. The home made pastries are delicious, and there are even board games for the restless. No smoking throughout. The restaurant next door is more expensive and less atmospheric.

40 rue des 3 frères Barthélémy, 6e
Tel: (04) 9147 6803.
Price: $-$$

Le Tire-Bouchon
Specialties from Lyon with a touch of the exotic are the signature dishes of this restaurant in the bohemian cours Julien. Oysters au gratin, foie gras, lobster, duck and game all feature on the menu. A solid wine list complements any dining choice. And there is a terrace under the trees to get some respite from the hot summer nights. Closed Sunday and Monday.

11 cours Julien, 6e
Tel: (04) 9142 4903.
Price: $$-$$$

L'Indigo Café
Right by the sea at the ‘happening' Escale Borély, this trendy beach-side restaurant offers Tex Mex fare in authentic looking surroundings. Choose between fajitas, tacos, chili con carne, quesadillas, and even a Mexican pizza, and wash the lot down with a good selection of Mexican beers and wines from Latin America.

148 avenue Pierre Mendès-France, 8e
Tel: (04) 9171 2192.
Website: www.sportsbeachcafe.fr
Price: $$-$$$

Table Ronde - La Taverne Bretonne
This crêperie is owned and managed by a guy from Brittany, and needless to say they know their stuff there. Try some delicious pancakes and galettes (traditional or more modern options, the choice is vast) washed down with some excellent cider. The décor will transport you to another part of France (the owners brought some Breton furniture and table linen with them to give the restaurant that authentic feel). Take away also available.

24 rue Sylvabelle, 6e
Tel: (04) 9104 6883.
Website: www.latableronde.fr
Price: $

Tarte Julie
An ideal pit stop for stocking up on pies, cakes and other pastries, which one can eat at a table at the back, or outside on the terrace in summer. Take away is also available. Good grub at reasonable prices for lunch on a budget.

14 avenue du Prado, 6e
Tel: (04) 9137 2345.
Price: $

Nightlife

Marseille has a dynamic live music and club scene. Check out Sortir, every Wednesday in La Provence (www.laprovence-presse.fr), the local daily paper, for listings. Also worth buying is l'Officiel des Loisirs, out every Wednesday too. Otherwise Vox Mag is a free fortnightly publication with listings, available from La Fnac, Virgin and many venues.

A good online guide for nightlife is http://marseillebynight.com (French only).

The best areas for nightlife in Marseille are the Vieux Port and Place Thiars, and the Escale Borély, a waterfront development south of the town center (a 20-minute ride on the bus 83), right by the sea. Also worth checking out is le cours Julien, a square lined with cafes and restaurants in the La Plaine area.

Bars: Many bars in Marseille are also glaciers (ice cream parlours). In fact, going out for an ice-cream is almost as popular as going out for a drink, at least in the hot summer months. For an aperitif head for the Bar de la Marine, 15 quai de Rive Neuve, 7e, made famous by local author Marcel Pagnol. Le Suffren, quai des Belges, 6e, is one of the many other bars overlooking the Vieux Port, perfect for people-watching and especially pleasant at sunset. Le Café de la Plage, Escale Borély, avenue Pierre Mendés-France, 8e, is a swanky cocktail bar facing the sea near the Prado beaches, popular with a hip young surfer crowd. Le Manureva, 1 avenue de la Pointe-Rouge, 8e, is an ultra trendy bar in the chic part of town (it is decorated like a luxury yacht inside), ideal for a pre-club drink or two. Homesick visitors can try the Red Lion, 231 avenue Pierre Mendès-France, 8e for some draught beer, English speaking staff and some fish and chips. MP Bar, 10 rue Beauveau, 1e is the most popular of Marseille's gay bars, open from early evening until sunrise. Bars à vin (wine bars) are popular at the moment. Try Le Bistrot à Vin, 17 rue Sainte, 1e.

Clubs: Le Trolleybus, 22-24 quai de Rive Neuve, 7e (http://letrolley.com) has been going strong for years and is still one of the most popular clubs in Marseille, with techno, house, hip-hop, jazz, and salsa, depending on the day of the week. The Café de la Plage, Escale Borély, avenue Pierre Mendès-France, 8e, is where all the trendy young things strut their stuff. It offers dancing and karaoke with popular music selections. The New Cancan, 3 rue Senac, 1e (www.newcancan.com), is the city's largest gay-friendly club, while Le Millenium, route de Cassis, 9e, is one of the biggest clubs in town, and plays mainly house music. La Maronaise, Anse Croisettes, Les Goudes, 8e, is frequented by some of Marseille's beau monde (including well-known football players and television personalities) who come here to enjoy the amazing views and the impressive seawater pool (open Apr-Oct only). Entry to some nightclubs very much depends on the whim of the bouncers on the day, but dressing the part helps, so make an effort.

Live Music: Check out Espace Julien, 39 cours Julien, 6e (www.espace-julien.com), for everything from French music to jazz to hip-hop and local talent; Dock des Suds, 12 rue Urbain V, 2e (www.dock-des-suds.org) for world music, and Friche Belle de Mai, 41 rue Jobin, 3e (www.lafriche.org). Le Pêle-Mêle, 8 place aux Huiles, 1e, is a many-faceted bar/disco/cafe that occasionally hosts live music. The Cité de la Musique (Auditorium), 4 rue Bernard du Bois, 1e (www.citemusique-marseille.com) (also Bastide de la Magalone, 245bis, boulevard Michelet) is the home of several local music associations and features concerts of all kinds, from jazz to baroque music. La Cave à Jazz, rue Bernard-du-Bois, 1e, is, as its name indicates, the place to go for jazz music.