Prague, Czech Republic — Where to Go
Prague Sightseeing Overview
One of the most enjoyable aspects of visiting Prague is that much of the compact old core is accessible on foot, with plenty of bars and cafes to provide relief along the way and an excellent public transport system on hand to ease tired limbs.
The most famous square in Prague is Wenceslas Square, scene of the Velvet Revolution celebrations in 1989, though its shabby facades and dubious nightclubs are not too appealing these days.
Just to the northwest is a far more cohesive and appealing public space, the Old Town Square - the throbbing heart of tourist Prague. The view from the top of the Old Town Hall gives a solid idea of the layout.
Head west towards the river and Karluv Most (Charles Bridge), with its hotchpotch of peddlers, entertainers and backpackers, unfurls across to the Malá Strana district. The bridge links Malá Strana (Little or Lesser Town) and the Castle above with the Old and New Towns.
The central tourist area is made up of five sections. Hradčany is the Castle district, which also includes St Vitus Cathedral and St George's Convent. Malá Strana is at the castle's foot.
Back east across Karluv Most lies Staré Město (Old Town), with its winding narrow streets, Old Town Square and Old Town Hall. The much ignored Josefov (the Jewish Quarter) is to the north of the old town while Nové Město (New Town) to the south hugs the river and is home to some interesting modern architecture.
While the Castle district and the Old Town are the real tourist hubs of the city, there is plenty waiting elsewhere in Prague and further afield. Green spaces include Letná Park, Karlovo Namesti and Petrin Hill.
There are plentiful half and full day trip options, with the chance to visit the UNESCO World Heritage town of Cesky Krumlov, one of Central Europe's most charming escapes.
Prague Tourist Information
Praská Informacní Sluba(PIS - Prague Information Service)
Tel: 12444.
Website: www.prague-info.cz
There are three PIS branches in Prague: they can be found in the Old Town Hall, Staromìstské námìstí, Prague 1; Hlavní nádraí (main train station), Wilsonova, Prague 1; and, in the summer, at Malostranská mostecká vex (Lesser Town Bridge Tower), Prague 1.
Prague Sightseeing
A four-day Tourist Pass allows unlimited travel on the metro, trams and buses, as well as admission to over 50 major attractions, including Prague Castle, the National Museum and the Museum of Decorative Arts. Passes without the transport charges are also available. These passes can be purchased from tourist information centers and offices of the Prague Public Transit Company (DP).
Prague Sightseeing
A four-day Tourist Pass allows unlimited travel on the metro, trams and buses, as well as admission to over 50 major attractions, including Prague Castle, the National Museum and the Museum of Decorative Arts. Passes without the transport charges are also available. These passes can be purchased from tourist information centers and offices of the Prague Public Transit Company (DP).
Key Attractions in Prague, Czech Republic
Karluv Most(Charles Bridge)
The construction of Prague's most famous and most photographed location began in 1357, as part of Charles IV's monumental building program that included the Castle, St Vitus Cathedral and the University. All were supervised by the Swabian architect Peter Parler (although the bridge construction is now known to have been begun by Master Otto). The bridge replaced the earlier Judita (Judith) bridge, the only surviving remnant of which is the plainer of the two towers on the Malá Strana gate. The bridge itself is rather drab and it is the later statues (Jesuit additions during the Counter-Reformation), which flank the bridge, that have made it so visually stunning. The first of these (the Crucifixion) was erected in 1657, followed soon after by the only bronze statue, that of St John of Nepomuk (who was martyred after being thrown from the bridge).
Most of the other statues of the saints (carved from local sandstone by Josef Brokof and Matthias Braun) were added between 1706 and 1714 (the latest was not added until 1928). Due to pollution, most have been replaced and the originals are housed in the Lapidarium in Letná Park. Many tourists wonder about the wooden constructions at the base of the pilings on the upriver side - these protect against ice floes and logjams during the spring melt-off.
The fully pedestrianized bridge serves as a focal point for tourists. There are stalls of various artists and craftspeople lining the bridge, while buskers of all descriptions (from Dixieland jazz bands to puppeteers) provide a constant source of entertainment and often congestion. Strolling across as the sun comes down while a young violinist wafts music across the Vltava is one of the quintessential Prague experiences.
Staré Město (Old Town)
Praský Hrad (Prague Castle)
Prague Castle, perched on the ridge of the Hradcany, dominates Prague's skyline. Entering under the Battling Titan statues, the sheer size of the complex (with three courtyards, fortifications and gardens, almost a small town in its own right) is most striking. Given the wealth of architecture, state apartments, churches, galleries and gardens, it is impossible to see everything in a single day.
Katedrála sv Víta (St Vitus Cathedral), the country's largest church, takes up most of the third courtyard. Inspired by the gothic cathedral at Narbonne, work actually commenced in 1344, but was not completed until 1929 due to the changing fortunes of the Czechs. The finest of the 22 side chapels is that built to hold the relics of St Wenceslas - the gilded walls are inlaid with hundreds of semi-precious stones that frame the luminous 14th-century paintings. The overly ornate baroque tomb of St John of Nepomuk was the work of the Jesuits intent on promoting this martyr as the Czech patron saint in opposition to Wenceslas.
The Coronation Chamber displays the Bohemian crown jewels, but is only infrequently open to the public. The Crypt is the resting place of most of the Kings and Queens of Bohemia. Bazilika sv Jiří (St George's Basilica) is a marvel of Romanesque architecture. Founded in 970, it was rebuilt in the 12th century and acquired its present baroque facade in the 16th century. The chapel dedicated to Saint Ludmilla, the first Czech martyr, is particularly fine. Kláster sv Jiří (St George's Convent), the oldest monastery in the country, was founded in 973 for Benedictine nuns. It now houses a remarkable collection of early Czech art, from the gothic to baroque periods.
In the Castle Gardens, the Belvedere is Prague's finest Renaissance building. Built in the 1530s as a summerhouse for Queen Anne, it now houses a changing program of exhibitions. Zlatá Ulicka (Golden Lane), with its 16th-century houses built into the fortifications, derives its name from being the residences of the court alchemists.
Hradcanské námìstí, Prague 1
Tel: 2243 72423.
Website: www.hrad.cz or www.katedralapraha.cz (for the cathedral)
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (Apr-Oct); daily 0900-1600 (Nov-May).
Admission charge (grounds free).
Staromìstské Námìstí (Old Town Square)
The 12th-century Old Town Square is the focal point for tourists. Horse-drawn carriages and vintage cars await those wishing to take a tour of the historic center. In summer, tables spill out from the restaurants, while in December, the square hosts the city's largest Christmas Market. The center is dominated by the monumental memorial to the 14th-century religious reformer, Jan Hus. The Prague Meridian is also found here, designating kilometer zero, from which all distances in the city are measured. All of the palaces, churches and houses around the square are of major historical interest. The gothic Staromestská Radnice (Old Town Hall) with its Astronomical Clock is a must for visitors. It strikes hourly (0900-2100), when the upper portion (dating to the early 15th century) reveals the Apostles at two windows. Beware the pickpockets who flock to the chimes as eagerly as the tourists. Just off the square, to the east, is the superb gothic Chrám Matky Boí Před Týnem (Tyn Church), where the tomb of the astronomer Tycho Brahe is found.
Staré Mĕsto (Old Town)
Josefov (Jewish Quarter)
Until the end of the 19th century, the area north of the Old Town Square constituted the Jewish Ghetto. Much of the area was cleared to make way for art nouveau buildings, but some of the flavor still remains. A single ticket, available from the Jewish Museum, allows admission to the idovnická Radnice (Jewish Town Hall), the Klausen, the Maisel, the Pinkas Synagogue and the Spanish Synagogue and the Ceremonial Hall. A separate ticket is required for the 13th-century Starovoná Synagoga (Old-New Synagogue), said to be the oldest synagogue in Europe, as well as the gallery and cemetery.
Staré Mĕsto (Old Town)
Jewish Museum
U Staré školy 1, Prague 1
Tel: 2217 11511.
Website: www.jewishmuseum.cz
Opening hours: Mon-Fri and Sun 0900-1800 (Apr-Oct); Mon-Fri and Sun 0900-1630 (Nov-Mar).
Admission charge.
Obecní Dùm (Municipal House)
The gem of art nouveau in Prague, Obecní Dùm has been fully restored, after decades of neglect. Designed by Antonin Balsánek and Osvald Polívka, all the major Czech artists made contributions during its construction (1905-10). However, even Karel Spillar's striking mosaic and the sculptural group by Ladislav Šaloun cannot prepare visitors for the remarkable interiors. The most spectacular of the public areas is the Lord Mayor's Room, which features murals by Alfons Mucha. The restaurant, cafe and the Amerikanský bar were also the work of Polívka. The centerpiece of the building is the Smetana Hall, home of the Prague Symphony Orchestra and one of the major venues for concerts during the Prague Spring Festival. Guided tours are essential for visitors to see the rooms that are not open to the public.
Námìstí Republiky 5, Prague 1
Tel: 2220 02101.
Website: www.obecnidum.cz
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (exhibition hall); daily 0730-2300 (cafe).
Free admission; charge for guided tours (booking essential) and separate exhibitions.
Václavské Námestí (Wenceslas Square)
Despite its name, Wenceslas Square is really a long boulevard. It was here, in 1989 that the passive resistance culminating in the Velvet Revolution began. Today, the square is a bustling thoroughfare presenting the best and worst of post-Communist Prague - from the fashionable and expensive stores to the prostitutes and taxis controlled by organized crime rings. Nothing remains of the square's earliest buildings, although examples of architectural styles from the last 150 years line its frontage. The lower portion is pedestrianized and contains many of Prague's largest stores - often of more interest for their architecture than for their contents. News kiosks at the bottom end are the best place to purchase Czech and foreign-language newspapers. There are numerous arcades with winding passages (developed in the 1920s) leading to or surrounding a cinema (in almost all instances) - many are now being renovated to their original art deco splendor, chiefly to house trendy shops. The Lucerna (see Live music in Nightlife) is undoubtedly the finest of these arcades, housing a jazz/rock concert hall, cinema, cafes and numerous small shops.
The focal point of the upper end of the square is JV Myslbek's monumental bronze equestrian statue of the Pomník sv Václav (St Wenceslas Memorial). The four surrounding statues are of national patron saints - Ludmilla, Procopius, Agnes and Vojtech (Adalbert).
At the top of the square stands the Národní Muzeum (National Museum). Founded in 1818, this houses the country's oldest and largest collection of antiquities. Although the collections (dedicated to palaeontology, geology, zoology and anthropology) are primarily of interest to specialists, the building itself warrants a visit. Built in the neo-Renaissance style, the facade and interior decorations form a striking celebration of the history of the former Czechoslovakia.
Nové Město (New Town)
Národní muzeum (National Museum)
Václavské 68, Prague 1
Tel: 2244 97111.
Website: www.nm.cz/english
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (May-Sep); daily 0900-1700 (Oct-Apr); closed first Tues of the month.
Admission charge; free first Monday of month.
Further Distractions
Uměleckoprůmyslového Musea(Museum of Decorative Arts)
Only a small fraction of the museum's holding is on display but what is there makes a mockery of fine art's supposed elevation above applied art. The fin-de-siècle building itself is stunning. Divided into two floors, the ground floor hosts temporary exhibitions, while the top floor presents a wide range of crafts. Of particular interest and beauty are the Czech ceramics and glassware.
Ulice 17 listopadu 2, Prague 1
Tel: 2510 93135.
Website: www.knihovna.upm.cz
Admission charge.
Muchovo Muzeum(Mucha Museum)
Celebrating the life of Czechoslovakia's best-known artist, Alfons Mucha (1860-1934), this collection in the Kaunitz Palace includes many of his Paris posters, including those for performances by Sarah Bernhardt. Paintings, sketchbooks and a recreation of his Paris studio are also on display. There is a pleasant terrace cafe as well.
Kaunický palác, Panská 7, Prague 1
Tel: 2214 51333.
Website: www.mucha.cz
Admission charge.
Wax Museum Prague
The Wax Museum Prague is a popular attraction with a branch in the capital and two others dotted around the country. The Melantrichová Museum features the ‘Hall of Celebrities of the 20th Century', the ‘Gallery of Totalitarian Rulers' and the multimedia program ‘Magical Prague'.
Melantrichová 5, Prague 1
Tel: 2242 29852.
Website: www.waxmuseumprague.cz
Admission charge for each museum; combined ticket available.
Small and temporary museums
Prague is constantly acquiring new museums, some for the summer season only. These are often strange and extremely interesting. Visitors should look for posters or leaflets in the tourist offices. Among the best to pop in recent years are the Muzeum Komunismu (Museum of Communism), covering the 1948-1989 reign of Communism in the city and the Sex Machines Museum, an exposition of mechanical erotic appliances.
Museum of Communism 1948-89
Na přikopě 10 (first floor), Prague 1
Tel: 2242 12966.
Website: www.muzeumkomunismu.cz
Admission charge.
Sex Machines Museum
Melantrichova 18, Prague 1 (off the Old Town Square)
Tel: 2242 16505.
Website: www.sexmachinesmuseum.com
Admission charge.
