Nairobi, Kenya — Travel Tips
Getting There By Air
Jomo Kenyatta International Airport
Tel: (020) 822 111.
Website: www.kenyaairports.co.ke
Lying 15km (9 miles) southeast of the city center on the Mombasa Highway, Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is East and Central Africa’s largest and busiest airport.
Airport facilities are basic but include a bank, exchange bureau, duty-free shops, restaurant and coffee shop.
To get from the main airport to the city center, take a taxi from outside the arrivals hall. Ignore the taxi touts within the buildings. Taxis don’t have meters so be prepared to haggle for the fare and agree a price before setting off. Alternatively, catch the Metro Shuttle that runs to the city center or the bus that departs from outside the arrivals hall for the River Road district.
It is possible to charter small planes to visit game parks and more remote regions of the country, useful if you have more money than time to spend in Kenya. Charter flights can be organized at the much smaller Wilson Airport (tel: (020) 501 941) on Langata Road.
Getting There By Road
Kenyans drive on the left, although vehicles usually choose whichever bit of road is least pot-holed until they have to pass one another. Bus and matatu (minibus) drivers are notorious for risky overtaking – cautious, defensive driving is the most sensible policy. Watch for obstacles on the road and check your speed. Local people prefer to walk on the tarmac, particularly at night, and it pays to be wary of wildlife on the road at any time of day. Driving at night inside national parks is dangerous and officially prohibited. Additional considerations apply in the rainy season, when highways are blocked by flooding and the murram (dirt) roads inside the national parks become impassable. In Kenya, a car indicating right does not want you to overtake, while a car signalling left is suggesting that it is safe to do so. Do not take this for granted though. A pile of leaves, sticks or rocks on the road usually indicates a broken-down vehicle ahead. Always stop at police checkpoints, indicated by tin drums and road spikes on the carriageway. Car-jacking does occur in Nairobi, though tourists and hired cars are rarely targeted. As a precaution, keep your doors locked and windows closed, particularly when stationary in traffic. A valid national or international driving license is required to drive in Kenya. Always request a full collision damage waiver and pay the additional fee to reduce the excess, as this can be almost as much as the cost of a new vehicle. Most rental firms can provide a driver for an additional fee. You will need a 4-wheel drive if you plan to drive on any dirt roads, including inside national parks. Stock up on water, food and spare fuel before heading into remote areas, and always notify people at the start and end point of your journey before you set off. In Nairobi and other large Kenyan cities, official parking guards will watch over your vehicle for a nominal charge. Local teenagers offer the same service on an unofficial basis. In the event of a breakdown, contact the car hire company as soon as possible. Flat tires and minor mechanic problems (clogged air intakes, for example) can be quickly fixed by local mechanics.
Emergency breakdown services
Automobile Association of Kenya (tel: (020) 682 5060).
Routes to the city
The most popular driving route for tourists is the A109, which runs southeast from Nairobi to Mombasa and northwest from Nairobi to Naivasha, Nakuru and the Ugandan border. The rugged A2 runs north to Nanyuki, Isiolo and Ethiopia, a journey of several days through challenging desert country.
Driving times to the city
From Mombasa – 7 hours; Nakuru – 3 hours; Naivasha – 2 hours.
Coach services
Private bus companies offer frequent, fast (sometimes too fast!) services around the country. There are numerous daily services from Nairobi to Mombasa, Naivasha, Nakuru and the Ugandan border. Tickets should be reserved a day in advance and most companies have offices adjacent to the main station in the River Road district. Akamaba on Lagos Road (tel: (020) 553 000; www.akambabus.com) is the largest company in the country and has the best safety record. Coastline Safaris on Accra Road (tel: (020) 217 592) and Scandinavian Express on River Road (tel: (020) 242 523; www.scandinaviagroup.com) are also well regarded.
Getting There By Rail
Kenya's decrepit rail network dates back to the days of the Uganda Railway (aka the Lunatic Express), constructed by the British to link Lake Victoria to the coast.
Rail Services
The daily overnight service from Nairobi to Mombasa is popular with travelers, and first-class tickets include a berth, clean bedding and a meal in the delightfully faded dining car. Second-class berths are simple but adequate; third class (seating only) is not recommended. Theft is a minor risk so take your valuables with you whenever you leave your compartment. Officially, there is also meant to be at least one Kisumu train a week, but this train is often cancelled for months at a time. Tickets can be purchased from travel agencies in Nairobi or directly from the train station on Station Road - look for the Upper Class Booking counter. There is a matatu (minibus) stand and taxi rank in front of the station for transport from the station to town. Alternatively, you can walk along Moi Avenue to the city center.
Rail Operators
Using 1950s rolling stock, Rift Valley Railways offers a limited train service between Nairobi and Mombasa, and occasionally between Nairobi and Kisumu, but neither service is particularly reliable, and only the Mombasa train is commonly taken by tourists.
Connections
From Mombasa – 13 hours at least; Kisumu – 15 hours at least.
Getting Around in Nairobi, Kenya
Public Transport
Downtown Nairobi is fairly easy to explore on foot, at least by day, but many of the attractions are out in the suburbs. Fortunately, the city is well stocked with taxis, and buses and matatus (minibuses) run regularly to most parts of Nairobi. Be cautious walking around near the bus station and in the area east of Moi Road. Muggers and prostitutes stalk the streets by night and walking after dark is not recommended – do what locals do and take a taxi. Local buses are operated by government bus company KBS (tel: (020) 229 707) and dozens of private companies, including City Hoppa and Double M. Fares are paid directly to the conductor and buses follow numbered routes, with many services starting from Uyoma Street. However, bus stops are frequently unmarked and buses are fearfully overcrowded. Matatus are white minibuses (normally Nissans), that travel on the same routes as the buses. Matatu stands are scattered around the center - useful routes include No 23 from Moi Avenue (or Latema Road) to Westlands and No 125 or No 126 from the train station to Langata. Fares depend on the route and distance – foreigners usually pay more than locals, but a ride around town will rarely cost more than Ksh50. Buses and matatus have a poor reputation for safety, and crashes are common – if you do use this form of transport, never sit in the so-called 'death seat', up front next to the driver. Locals claim that the safest place to sit is in the middle, towards the back. Drivers usually wear uniforms and badges, but seatbelts are rare and speed regulators designed to cap the vehicles' top speed often don't work. Loud music and overcrowding are an integral part of the Nairobi public transport experience.
Taxis
Licensed taxis in Nairobi have a yellow stripe, and drivers loiter near matatu stands, restaurants, bars and tourist spots waiting for passengers. Haggle hard for a fare and always agree a price before starting the journey. Some of the privately owned taxis are ancient and prone to breakdowns - better vehicles are operated by taxi companies such as Kenatco (tel: (020) 222 5123; www.kenatco.com), who specialize in airport transfers. Peugeot share taxis run on longer routes to towns around Nairobi and charge a fixed fare, but they only leave when full. Most share taxis leave from stands around Accra Road, River Road and Cross Road. Tuk-tuks, three-wheeled motorcycle rickshaws more commonly associated with Asia, are appearing in ever greater numbers in Nairobi, and operate on a similar basis to the taxis.
Car Hire
A hired car is a great way to explore Nairobi and the surrounding countryside, but always take out the highest level of insurance available and pay the surcharge to reduce the excess. A saloon car is fine for visiting Mombasa or the towns of the Rift Valley, but if you plan to drive inside any of the national parks, rent a 4-wheel drive. As well as fully equipped Toyota Land Cruisers and Mitsubishi Pajeros, most agencies rent out small Suzuki jeeps which are adequate for most roads in the south of the country. To rent a car in Kenya, you must be at least 23 to 25 years old, and you will need your home or international driving license and a credit or debit card (or a large amount of cash as a deposit). Agencies in Nairobi include Avis (tel: (020) 336 704; www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (020) 358 1027; www.budgetcarhirekenya.com) and Central Rent-a-car (tel: (020) 222 2888; www.carhirekenya.com).
Bicycle Hire
Bicycles in Nairobi can be hired from Kenya Cycle Mart (tel: (020) 559 993) on Butere Road, who also carry spare parts and fix bikes. However, cycling amongst the speeding matatus is not for the faint-hearted.
