When conjuring up an image of Hong Kong, most of us picture flashing neon, skyscrapers packed in like matches, a bustling harbor, chic hotels and shopping malls, trendy restaurants, and the frenetic pace of a city with an agenda. All these things, and much more, define Central.

Walking along Central’s streets during rush hour, among a crush of people in suits talking on cell phones, hurrying in every direction, you get the feeling that big business deals are going down. Your next clue would be the tangle of towering skyscrapers, the most spectacular of which is the Two International Finance Centre (2IFC), Hong Kong’s tallest at 88 floors and one of the few in the world equipped with double deck elevators. The 72-story Bank of China, the most recognizable building in the Hong Kong skyline catches the eye with pointed angles of mirrored glass. The $1 billion Hong Kong bank, considered the most expensive building ever built, and the Jardine House with its 1,700 round windows (nicknamed "The House of a Thousand Orifices") also compete for attention.

These banks' efforts to outshine one another may all be in vain, however. The swell of 1,200-foot Victoria's Peak dwarfs the entire city, making the skyscrapers look puny in comparison.

Take the funicular Peak Tramway up the mountain and marvel at the gorgeous homes that get more extravagant as the tram climbs higher. In operation since 1888, the tram sweeps both residents and tourists up the peak in eight minutes. Once at the top, hike the loop path through tropical bamboo and rhododendron forests as birds and monkeys hop from branch to branch. The Peak Tower, a three-tiered complex of shops and restaurants, commands the best view in the city.

The south side of Central lures residents of Hong Kong with its unspoiled beaches and mountains. Aberdeen, the area's harbor town, draws its share of tourists with its flamboyant floating restaurant. Lined with thousands of lights, the restaurant is a modern take on pagoda-style architecture and is the largest floating restaurant in the world.

When you've gotten your fill of the harbor's bright lights, head over to the Tin Hau Temple. Built in 1851, the temple is dedicated to the goddess of the sea, who bestows good (or bad) fortune on the area's fishing villages. In April, devotees cover the temple in delicate paper lanterns for the Tin Hau Festival, an event not to be missed.

One of the cheapest ways to take in the crowded city skyline is the venerable green-and-white Star Ferry, which whisks passengers back and forth across the harbor 450 times a day. To get the sense of the true Hong Kong, skip the first class deck and head downstairs to sit among the commuters in second class.

Disembark the Star Ferry from Central in one of the most densely populated places on earth, Kowloon. Though lacking the high-rises of Central, Kowloon is full of life. A sprawling shopping district covers the tip of the peninsula, and beyond that are traditional market districts. To the east lie luxury hotels, posh restaurants, and nightclubs. And sprinkled in between all this are innumerable homes and apartments, vying for space any way they can.

Venture north a little off the beaten tourist track to New Kowloon and the site of the fascinating Walled City. Once a walled fort guarded by a Manchu magistrate, the Walled City became a lawless area when the British gained sovereignty of Hong Kong in 1841 and expelled all Chinese troops and officials. Squatters moved into the city shortly thereafter, and with the end of World War II, derelicts, drug addicts, and gangs took over the dark alleyways and illegal housing. Finally in 1987, the British relocated the 35,000 residents and bulldozed the Walled City to make way for a park. During this process, they uncovered the foundation of the original wall, stone tablets with inscriptions from the Qing dynasty (1644-1911), two cannons, and parts of the administrative building, which is now fully restored.

Today, visitors can tour the artifacts as well as stroll the lovely gardens that have replaced the rubble. The gardens are modeled in the style of the Qing dynasty, featuring the Garden of the Chinese Zodiac, a chess garden, the Mountain View Pavilion, and the Hill Top Pavilion. Popular with families, the park is also host to early-morning tai chi exercises.

Twice the size of Central but with 2.5 percent of its population, Lantau Island serves as a quiet respite for urbanites. A new state-of-the-art airport was built here in 1998, and along with it, a suspension bridge linking the island to Central and Kowloon. Despite these recent developments, however, Lantau has retained its rural, agrarian mentality.

Great hiking trails abound on this mountainous island. Most notable is the Lantau Trail, a 43.5-mile loop trail that begins and ends in the tranquil resort town of Mui Wo. This well-maintained path winds through dense woods, over two rugged mountains, and along the rocky coastline overlooking the South China Sea.

Highlights along the trail include Po Lin Monastery, home to the world's largest outdoor bronze statue of the seated Buddha. Under the Buddha's peaceful gaze, climb 268 stairs for lovely views of Lantau Peak, which at 3,040 feet is the tallest mountain on the island. Within a few hours of Po Lin is the fishing village of Tai O, where racks of drying fish are laid out near the harbor and tiny seafood restaurants beckon with the fresh catch of the day on display in its windows. Here, villagers build homes on stilts that rise above the tidewater, just as they have for centuries. For a truly unforgettable experience, venture off the trail to the north coast of the island and board a fishing boat to see rare, bubble-gum pink dolphins.

An urban oasis surrounded by high-rise apartment buildings in the western New Territories, the Mai Po Nature Reserve is an important stopping point for migratory birds. The reserve's 1,000 acres of reed-fringed marshes, shrimp ponds, mudflats, and mangrove forests are so rich in bird life that it's considered one of the most important wildlife sanctuaries on the South China coast.

Of the 400 species of birds in the reserve, nearly 25 are endangered. The black-faced spoonbill, one such endangered species, can be found in the reserve in April while it rests before flying on to Korea. Walking along the extensive network of trails and raised wooden boardwalks, or sitting quietly in hides, you'll be able to spot kingfishers and egrets, as well as mammals like civets and otters.

With deep ravines, dense woods, and a craggy landscape, the Sai Kung Peninsula in the eastern New Territories is the wildest place in Hong Kong. Save for a sprinkling of fishing villages, the Sai Kung Peninsula is deserted land--perfect for hikers who want to escape the bustling city.

One of the best hikes in the area is the steep climb up 1,520-foot Sharp Peak. Near the start of this 9.3-mile hike, you'll come across a shrine that's situated in the woods according to the rules of feng shui, or the placement of objects in harmony with nature. As you continue on the steep, sandy trail and break out of the woods, you catch your first glimpse of the peak ahead. The very last part of the ascent up Sharp Peak is rough: The trail becomes gravelly and narrow, and posted signs warn you about the difficult terrain. But once you scramble to the summit, the sight of deserted white beach stretching along the coastline as far as the eye can see will make the climb worthwhile.

The descent leads you straight onto one of the most beautiful beaches in Hong Kong: Tai Long Wan, which means "Big Wave Bay." True to its name, the swells here are huge, and the beach is popular with surfers willing to lug their boards over the rocky landscape. Rest your sore muscles at one of the beachside shops offering cold beer and noodles.