Mexico, rich in reminders of ancient civilizations, is also a modern developing nation. Temples and cathedrals contrast with futuristic buildings and fully-equipped beach resorts. Elsewhere, elements of the ancient and colonial cultures persist in aspects of rural life. Fêtes and festivals are celebrated with enthusiasm, and the markets in towns and villages are lively and colorful.
Mexico CityThe capital of Mexico stands at an altitude of 2240m (7350ft) beneath two snow-capped volcanoes, Popocatépetl and Ixtaccíhuatl. It is a huge rambling city with a distinctly
colonial feel. Many of the buildings are in the exuberant Latin American Baroque style. Despite its pollution and sprawling size, Mexico City – or ‘El DF’, standing for
Distrito Federal (Federal District) – is a very attractive city made up of 16
delegaciones (districts) and about 400
colonias (neighborhoods), with many green spaces and quiet back streets. Exclusive residential areas, such as Polanco, Arizures and Santa Fe have their own village-like centers. The street names in each district have been given particular themes such as philosophers, European cities, rivers or writers, which lend a certain charm and atmosphere to each area, as well as helping the visitor navigate around the city.
In the center of the Centro Histórico (Historic Center) is the Plaza de la Constitución, more commonly referred to as the Zócalo – the Aztec word for ‘plinth’ or ‘pedestal’ – all that was actually completed of a monument to independence planned by General Santa Ana. Construction of the square began in 1573 and was finished in the 19th century. Vast in scale, it is surpassed in size only by Red Square in Moscow. Each evening, the enormous Mexican flag that flies in the middle of the square is taken down and folded with great ceremony by the Mexican army. The Catedral Metropolitana, on the north side of the square, was begun in 1563 and exhibits a plethora of architectural styles (mainly Gothic, Baroque and Neo-Classical). The highlight of the ornate gilded interior is the Capilla de los Reyes (Kings’ Chapel) and its altar. Just east of the cathedral is the excavated site of the Aztec Templo Mayor (Great Temple), part of the sacred complex of Tenochtitlán, which was demolished by the Spaniards in the 1520s. Remains of the temple layout can be viewed from raised walkways. The adjoining museum displays artifacts excavated from the site in the 1970s, including the first artifact to be discovered – a huge votive disk to the goddess of the moon, Coyolxauhqui. On the east side of the zócalo, the National Palace, built in 1692 on the ruins of the Palace of Montezuma, is now the office of the President of the Republic. Diego Rivera’s depiction of Mexican history is illustrated in a dramatic mural that adorns the stairwell leading up to the middle story of the main courtyard. Other outstanding examples of Rivera’s work – and that of Siqueiros, Orozco and Tamayo – can be found in the Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts) near Alameda Central (Central Park). This beautiful arts center and concert hall, sculptured out of white Carrara marble, was built between 1900-34 in Neo-Classical, Art-Nouveau and Art-Deco styles. The
Ballet Folklórico perform here every Wednesday and Sunday with a blend of ancient Mayan and Aztecritual, dramatized episodes from Mexican history, as well as current songs and dances from all over Latin America. Another hugely popular and sentimental form of Mexican music can be heard through a late afternoon and evening visit to the Plaza Garibaldi, where ‘mariachis’ from all over Mexico, usually dressed in ornate clothes and giant sombreros, play for the public. With so many sites of architectural, religious and cultural merit, it is not surprising that the capital has museums with world-class collections. In particular, the Museo Nacional de Antropología, in Chapultepec Park (‘Grasshopper Hill’ in the Nahuatl language), holds an enormous and absolutely fascinating collection of Pre-Hispanic artifacts within 12 halls on the first floor, including the 24-ton Aztec Sun Stone – the Calendar Stone. Ethnological exhibits on the second floor illustrate life today in Mexico’s indigenous communities. Museums that contain outstanding collections include: the Museo Franz Mayer (16th to 19th century European, Asian and Mexican fine and applied arts, displayed in a restored 16th-century hospital); Museo de Arte Moderno (a collection of some of the major works from 20th-century Mexican and Latin American artists); Museo Frida Kahlo (examples of the artist’s work, her own art collection and belongings displayed in her former home and studio); and Museo Anahuacalli (an extraordinary volcanic stone-clad house, designed by Diego Rivera to house his extensive collection of pre-Hispanic artifacts).
Just to the north of the center are two places that offer a good insight into Mexican history and architecture, as well as its cultural and religious life today. Plaza de las Tres Culturas in Tlatelolco celebrates the three major cultures that have shaped Mexico: there are Aztec ruins, the 17th-century colonial church of San Diego, built in the Baroque style, and several late 20th-century buildings. Another location worth visiting is the Basilica of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe. The shrine that is built around Tepeyac hill signifies the spot where the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared to the Indian Juan Diego in 1531. It is also a major pilgrimage site. Each year, on 12 December, millions of devout pilgrims from all over Mexico, many shuffling forward on their knees, congregate at the Basilica to worship their patron saint. Built in 1976, it has a capacity of 10,000 inside plus another 25,000 outside when the 70 surrounding portals are opened.
The oldest university in the Americas, and one of the largest in the world, the Ciudad Universitaria (University City), located in Pedregal Square, is a remarkable architectural complex dating back to the 1950s. Among its landmark buildings is the library – a tower encased in an astonishing natural stone, glass and tile mural, which was designed by Juan O’Gorman to illustrate key chapters in Mexico’s history.
ExcursionsSome 20km (14 miles) south of the Zócalo are the floating gardens and tree-lined canals of Xochimilco. Engineered by the Aztecs, the gardens are now a weekend haunt of the city’s inhabitants who hire brightly painted
trajineras (gondolas), often accompanied by ‘mariachis’, to cruise the canals.
Two of Mexico City’s prettiest colonial villages on the southern fringes – Coyoacán and San Ángel – are best visited at the weekend, when the attractive squares and cobble-lined streets are alive with students, artists, craftspeople, musicians and other Mexicans out strolling with their families. The Bazar del Sábado (Saturday Market) in San Angel’s Plaza San Jacinto is one of the best places to buy good-quality handicrafts and artworks.
Southcentral MexicoTeotihuacánThe ‘City where the Gods are born’, 48km (30 miles) northeast of Mexico City, was built about 2000 years ago. It was the largest pre-Hispanic city in Mexico and, at the height of its power, controlled most of Mexico. Visitors to the site can see the Pyramids of the Sun and Moon, the Citadel with the Temple of Quetzalcoatl (the plumed serpent) and the Palace of Quetzalpapálotl (the plumed butterfly), all found in a mile-long stretch called the Calle de los Muertos (Great Way of the Dead).
TulaTula, 95km (59 miles) north of Mexico City, is the former capital of the Toltec empire. Architectural highlights include the four basalt
Atlantes. These 5m (16ft) tall figures originally supported the roof of the sanctuary on top of the Templo de Tlahuizcalpantecuhtli (Temple of the Morning Star), and depict Quetzalcoatl as the morning star, dressed as a heavily armed Toltec warrier.
TepotzotlánTepotzotlán, 43km (27 miles) from the capital, is notable for its Churrigueresque Church of San Francisco Javier, the façade of which is decorated with more than 300 sculptures of angels, saints, plants and people. On a hill nearby, there is an Aztec shrine dedicated to the god of feasting and drinking where annually, on 8 September, a fête is held which features Aztec dancing and the performance of an Aztec play. In the town itself, in the third week of December, a different kind of performance takes place. The experiences of Mexican pilgrims en route to Bethlehem are enacted in
pastorellas.
AcolmanThe village of Acolman, 39km (24 miles) north of the capital on the road to Teotihuacán, is centered around the beautiful 16th-century monastery of
San Agustin Acolman. The building is now a museum containing religious paintings and artifacts.
CuernavacaCuernavaca, 90km (56 miles) from the capital, is built around two large squares. On one stands the Palacio de Cortés (built in 1538), now a museum containing frescoes by Diego Rivera. The Cathedral dates from the 16th century. The town also contains the 18th-century Borda Gardens and the Indian market which sells
huaraches (sandals), leather goods and articles made of straw.
XochicalcoSituated 40km (25 miles) south of Cuernavaca, Xochicalco is one of the country’s most interesting ceremonial centers, especially noted for its Building of the Plumed Serpent.
TepoztlánTepoztlán (Place of Copper) is an attractive, relaxed town in a spectacular natural setting. Spread out across the valley floor, it is surrounded by steep, jagged cliffs that glow pink in the afternoon sun. It is also the legendary birthplace of Quetzalcóatl, the Aztec serpent god. Set on a cliff, 400m (1312ft) above the town, is a pyramid dedicated to Tepoztécatl, god of the harvest, fertility and
pulque (a light alcoholic drink). The hour-long climb to the summit is a strenuous one, but well worth it for the extensive views that are afforded over the town, valley and surrounding hills. Dominating the town center is the fortress-like Dominican church and monastery. From the market side, the entrance to the churchyard has an arch which is decorated with a golden mural depicting local gods and history, and crafted entirely from seeds, stones and other natural products.
TaxcoLocated 160km (100 miles) from Mexico City, Taxco has been classed as a national monument. The town’s fortune was made from the silver mines. The selling of silverware and jewelry is a thriving local trade. As well as numerous interesting, narrow and winding cobbled streets, the Church of Santa Prisca and San Sebastián is a jewel of Churrigueresque architecture, with a
reredos decorated with gold leaf and a wealth of statues and ornaments. Residences of the colonial period include the Casa Humboldt, Casa de Borda and Casa de Figueroa. A cable-car runs from Los Arcos, at the northern end of the town, to the summit of Monte Taxco. The view over the valley and surrounding mountains from the top are spectacular. The Cacahuamilpa Caves are to the north of Taxco.
TolucaToluca, 66km (41 miles) from the capital, lies in a valley dominated by the snow-capped Nevado de Toluca, an extinct volcano (its two craters are known as the Sun and the Moon). As well as a fine market, the town has several interesting museums in its Cultural Center, dedicated to archaeology, folk and modern art. Nearby are the Indian villages of Tenancingo, Metepec and Chiconcuac. About 8km (5 miles) north of Toluca is Calixtlahuaca, an Aztec site of archaeological interest where a circular pyramid is dedicated to the god of wind. The spa town of Ixtapan de la Sal, 80km (50 miles) from Toluca, has excellent hot springs and spa facilities. Valle de Bravo, 70km (44 miles) southwest of Toluca, is a resort town at an elevation of 1869m (6135ft), set amid pines on a large lake.
PueblaNestled in the foothills of the Sierra Madre is Puebla – originally named Puebla de los Angeles (City of the Angels) in 1531. Capital of the state of the same name, it can be reached by a 129km- (80.5 mile-) drive southwest from Mexico City. It is famous for its colonial architecture with glazed tiles (known as Talavera after a town in Spain), which cover most of the church domes and house walls, and for the skilled craftspeople who produce them. Tiles and other ceramics can be purchased in El Parián market and in the street leading to Plazuela de los Sapos. The Convention Center, a modern building of striking elegance and clean lines, reflects its artistic heritage in its choice of tiles and use of natural materials found within the state. This juxtaposition of ancient and modern is made explicit with a walkway that literally bridges the convention center and the Barrio del Artista (Artists’ Quarter). In 1988, UNESCO declared Puebla part of the ‘Cultural Heritage of Mankind’. Highlights include the Cathedral (one of the oldest in Mexico), which has 14 chapels and is built of blue-grey stone. Its towers, at 69m (226ft), are the highest in Mexico. The building thus dominates the arcade-lined zócalo with its beautiful gardens and Fuente de San Miguel (Saint Michael Fountain), the patron saint of the city. Opposite the cathedral is the Palacio Municipal, which was remodeled in accordance with the Neo-Classical architectural guidelines issued under the Porfirian dictatorship. The Church of Santo Domingo is famous for its Capilla del Rosario (Rosary Chapel), a breathtaking masterpiece in goldleaf that was consecrated in 1690. Puebla’s colonial heritage is also expressed in the architectural riches of its former monasteries and
casonas (mansions). Two of the best examples of colonial mansions are the Casa de los Muñecos (Dolls’ House), the tiles on the façade depicting the Labors of Hercules (the building is now the University Museum), and the Casa del Alfeñique (Sugar Paste House), which displays craftware and regional costumes. The city has several fine museums, including Museo Bello (Pueblan Talavera and colonial religious artifacts); Museo Ampara (a superb pre-Hispanic collection of artifacts); and the Ex-Convento de Santa Rosa & Museo de Artesanías (Pueblan State handicrafts). Now a hotel, the Ex-Convento de la Concepción, is a startling reminder of the wealth of the church during the colonial period, with its beautifully preserved cloisters and wall paintings. From Puebla, it is possible to see the volcanoes of Popocatépetl, Iztaccíhuatl, Malinche and Citlaltépetl.
Cholula10km (6 miles) west from Puebla, Cholula is a pre-Hispanic ceremonial center that once contained about 400 shrines and temples, most of which were destroyed by Cortés’s army and replaced with colonial churches – the Spanish claimed to have constructed 365 here. The Pyramid of Tepanapa has the largest base of any pyramid in the world and is the most striking feature of the archaeological site; on the summit stands the Sanctuary of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios. The plaza in the town center has three fine churches, the most unusual being the Capilla Real (Royal Chapel), which, with its 49 domes, has the appearance of a mosque.
ExcursionsTwo additional places worth visiting are the churches of Santa Maria and San Francisco at Tonantzintla and Acatepec respectively. The painted stucco flowers, birds, saints and devils that cover every surface of the dome of the church at Tonantzintla demonstrate incredible artistry. The town is also noted for its fiestas which include traditional dances and processions on 15 August. The Church of San Francisco Acatepec, a few kilometers away, is notable for its exterior, clad in beautiful green, yellow and blue tiles from Puebla, set in an ornate Churrigueresque façade.
OaxacaKnown as the ‘Jade City’ due to the green tinge in the stone used in the construction of many of its buildings, Oaxaca is a culturally diverse city. It is the capital of a state whose pre-Hispanic, colonial and indigenous roots are vividly expressed through its architecture, craft traditions, Zapotec and Mixtec archaeological sites, gastronomy and festivals – the
Noche de Rábanos (Night of the Radishes) and the Guelaguetza in particular reflect age-old traditions. Within its 95,364 sq km (59,258 miles) live 16 ethnic groups, each with its own dialect or language, making the state one of the most linguistically and culturally varied of any in Mexico. In 1987, UNESCO declared both Oaxaca city and the Zapotec site of Monte Albán, 9km (5.5 miles) away, to be a ‘Cultural Heritage of Humanity’. Traditional arts and crafts – hand-woven and hand-embroidered clothing,
alebrijes (painted wooden figures and fantastical creatures), rugs, gold jewelry and distinctive, shiny black pottery – reflect the vibrancy and skill of modern artists who have built on, and refined, older artistic traditions. Works by Oaxacan artists, particularly those of Rufino Tamayo, Francisco Toledo and Rodolfo Morales, are recognized internationally, and several galleries within the town specialize in modern art; it is also possible to visit artists in their homes to purchase paintings. Oaxaca’s relaxed atmosphere belies its sizeable student and language-school population, both of which have added vibrancy to the town’s nightlife. In the bandstand of the central zócalo, the former state marimba band gives free concerts most nights of the week, while local musicians play at the tables of the cafes and restaurants under the arcades that edge the square. Dominating the northwest corner of the square is the Cathedral. Construction commenced in the 16th century but, due to earthquake damage, it was only completed two centuries later. Its Baroque façade is decorated with some fine bas-reliefs. The Neo-Classical Palacio de Gobierno, on the south side, contains murals by Arturo Garciá Bustos that show key moments from Oaxacan history and legend. The pedestrianized Calle Alcalú leads to the monumental former monastery and church complex of Santo Domingo. The inside of the church is decorated with a profusion of colorful Baroque ornaments, statues and altars. Of particular interest are the family tree of St Domingo de Guzmán, the founder of the order, sculpted as a vine with leaves and tendrils; Old and New Testament scenes on the barrel roof; the main altar; and the adjoining Capilla del Rosario (Rosary Chapel). Attached to the church is the former monastery, now the Museo Regional del Estado. Among the highlights of the collection are the Zapotec and Mixtec artifacts fashioned from gold, jade, silver, turquoise and quartz that were excavated from Tomb Seven at Monte Albán. Outside, the former monastery gardens are being re-landscaped and planted with Oaxacan flora, including some dramatic cacti. Also well worth a visit are the Rufino Tamayo and Contemporary Art museums.
Two churches central to the religious life of the area are the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad with its statue of the Virgin of la Soledad, patron saint of the town, to whom many miracles are ascribed, and San Juan de Dios, the oldest church in Oaxaca.
ExcursionsOutside Oaxaca, other major Dominican sites of worship are to be found at Coixtlahuaca, Cuilapan, Teposcolula, Tlacochahuaya, Tlaxiaco and Yanhuitlán. Many of the villages surrounding Oaxaca have weekly markets where food and craft products can be bought, of which the following are the most notable: Tlaxiaco (blankets); Tlacolula (rugs and ceramics); Miahuatlán (
mescal, leather goods and bread); Santa Ana del Valle (a general market); Etla (flowers, cheese and meat); Ejutla (embroidered clothes and
mescal); Ocotlán (pottery, flowers and textiles); and Oaxaca (crafts of all descriptions). Villages where the actual manufacture of local crafts can be seen include the
barro negro brillante (black, shiny pottery) of San Bartolo Coyotepec and the beautiful woven rugs stained with natural dyes at Teotitlán del Valle.
Monte AlbánSituated 14km (9 miles) drive from Oaxaca, Monte Albán was a sacred city in prehistoric times and the religious center of the Zapotec culture, which flourished 2000 years ago. The remarkable Central Plaza, the Ball Court, and many of the tombs, are open to the public. It is an amazing complex situated on a levelled mountain top. Aldous Huxley wrote that ‘even today this high place of the Zapotecs remains extraordinarily impressive...Monte Albán is the work of men who knew their architectural business consummately well’. The best time to appreciate the spectacular beauty of the buildings in the changing light is either early in the morning or at sunset.
Tuxtla GutierrezThe state capital of Chiapas and the home of Mexico’s famed
marimba music. Set in a thriving coffee-growing region, it is a good base from which to explore the nearby villages where life has changed little since pre-Hispanic times. A short drive away is the impressive Sumidero Canyon. Mountain peaks surround the 1829m (6000ft) drop along the 42km- (26 mile-) rift and are an impressive sight.
San Cristobel de las CasasSan Cristobal de las Casas was founded in 1528 by Diego de Mazariegos as the colonial capital of the region. At an altitude of 2195m (7200ft), the two-hour drive from Tuxlta Gutierrez involves a rapid temperature change. It is a cool, white-washed town with an almost alpine atmosphere. During the year, several festivals are held here, making it an important gathering spot for the local craftspeople. In the near vicinity are a number of indigenous villages populated by Tzeltzal, Tzotzil and Chamula people. These can be visited, but the visitor should respect local traditions and sensitivities, especially when taking photographs. San Cristobal is also known as a center for writers, musicians and poets.
ElsewhereSituated 45km (28 miles) from Oaxaca, the prehistoric site of Mitla features numerous Mixtec remains, including the Hall of Columns and the Column of Life, which visitors are invited to grasp if they wish to determine how long they will live. Also in the village is the Frisel Museum. Other key archaeological sites are to be found at Yagul, Lambityeco and Dainzú.
The State of Oaxaca also contains areas of outstanding natural beauty: the 2000-year-old tree at Santa Maria del Tule; the Hierve el Agua (‘boiling water’) near San Lorenzo Albarradas; and the lagoons at Chacahua and Manialtepec. Along the Pacific Coast, the resorts of Huatulco, Puerto Angel and Puerto Escondido also have dramatic natural settings, as well as excellent facilities (see the
Beach Resorts section for more information).
Central MexicoThe central highlands, benefiting from a milder climate, constitute the most populous region of Mexico. Many of the colonial cities of this region include a unique blend of indigenous and Spanish culture; these historic centers have remained virtually intact since the time of the conquest. The conquistadores built very Spanish-looking villages near the silver mines. Today, the main attractions of this region are the architecture, the views, and some very good local cooking. One of the most popular driving circuits is the one following the so-called Independence Route, which links all of the major colonial cities in Central Mexico. Beginning in Mexico City, the route takes the traveller north to Querétaro, San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Morelia, Patzcuaro and Guadalajara. Another circuit picks up in Guadalajara, again going north, to Aguascalientes, Zacatecas and San Luis Potosí.
GuadalajaraThe capital of Jalisco still has a Spanish colonial atmosphere, despite being the agricultural, commercial and industrial center of the western highlands. The Cathedral has 11 altars, 30 columns and a big art collection. There are also a lot of parks: the Parque Agua Azul (‘Blue Water’) is noteworthy for its forest-like atmosphere; the Parque de las Armas is where the boys and girls of the town court each other. Around the Cathedral there are two parks, the Parque de los Laureles and the Parque de la Revolución. The Plaza de Rotonda contains columns and statues in honor of Jalisco’s past heroes; the Plaza Libertad has a market with a wide range of locally-produced goods. During the annual
October Festival, horsemanship and bullfighting can be seen at the
charreada (rodeo). The famous ‘Mexican Hat Dance’ originated in this area - locally, it is called
Jarabe Tapatio.
GuanajuatoGuanajuato is steeped in history, legend and folklore. It is situated on Mexico’s famous Independence Route, a road 1400km (875 miles) in length, along which can be traced Mexico’s historic struggle for independence. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the town preserves a colonial charm in places such as Hidalgo Street, an underground street, the Governor’s Palace, the Juarez Theater, the University, the Basilica of Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato and the Valenciana Church. The parish Church of Dolores Hidalgo is of great significance, being the place where, in 1810, Father Miguel Hidalgo raised the ‘Grito de Dolores’, the cry of rebellion against the Spanish when, with 80,000 armed supporters, he commenced the independence struggle. The town also features several museums, including the Diego Rivera Museum (the birthplace of the internationally renowned muralist) and the somewhat bizarre Mummy Museum. The Botanical Gardens of San Miguel de Allende also provide an eco-tourist feature to visit.
San Miguel de AllendeA short distance away from Guanajuato is San Miguel de Allende, which features thermal waters and spas, art and language schools and the laid-back way of life typical of these small colonial cities. The town, founded by a Franciscan friar in 1542, is now classed as a national monument. It is a place of narrow, cobbled streets and squares lined with trees. The houses and patios have elegant colonial architecture and the town is a fitting location for the Allende Institute, a school of fine arts named after a hero of the revolution whose name was also added to the name of the town. In 1880, the Indian master mason, Ceferino Gutierez, applied the tools of his trade to the architecture of the Parroquia de San Miguel. Its Franciscan starkness was transformed into Gothic. The Casa de los Perros (House of Dogs) has sculptured dogs on its balcony. The annual
Posadas at Christmas-time is one of the fiestas for which the town is noted.
MoreliaThe aristocrat among the colonial cities is Morelia, a city halfway between the capital and Guadalajara. Apart from a few modern buildings, the city retains an atmosphere of old Spain. The Plaza de los Martires forms the center of the city, flanked on one side by the Cathedral, bearing an unusual pink stone façade, with its 61m- (200ft-) high tower. Other sights include the College of San Nicolas (founded in 1540), the Conservatorio de las Rosa and the impressive Aqueduct built in 1790 to carry water into the city. Between November and February, visitors should go to the Monarch Butterfly Refuge near Angangueo, Morelia. Each year these butterflies migrate from Canada and the USA to a mountain bordering the state of Michoacan in Mexico.
QuerétaroSituated 250km (155 miles) northwest of Mexico City, it is here that the Emperor Maximilian was captured, tried and executed, and where the present Mexican constitution was drawn up in 1917. A former San Franciscan monastery is now a local museum, whilst the San Agustin monastery has become the Federal Palace. The mansion of the Marquis Villa del Aguila, who ordered the building of the town’s aqueduct, can be found in the Plaza de la Independencia. The town has excellent hotels and restaurants.
ExcursionsThe Querétaro region is also noted for its striking juxtaposition of ancient sites with colonial mission towns. Ranas is an important example of an ancient ceremonial center, which scholars have attributed to the Teotihuacán-Toltoec period. Located on a hill top, Toluquilla has remains of military fortifications which show the influences of the Huasteca culture. The second architectural tradition, that of strikingly beautiful Mexican Baroque churches, dates back to the life and work of the Franciscan friar, Fray Junipero Serra, who founded five missions in the 18th century at Concá, Jalpan, Landa, Tancoyol and Tilaco.
AguascalientesNorth of Guadalajara, Aguascalientes has belonged to the Kingdom of Nueva Galicia since 1535. It was a stopping place for travelers on the silver route during the 18th century. Many of the Baroque buildings from this period still remain; the most interesting are the temples of Guadalupe, Encino, San Marcos, San Diego and San José de la Merced; also worth visiting are the Government and municipal palaces, the House of Culture and Excedra, and the Ionian column marking the center of Mexico. The Feria de san Marcos Fair is held in the town annually.
San Luis PotosiThe capital of the state of the same name, San Luis Potosí is 351km (218 miles) northeast of Guadalajara and is the center of a rich mining and agricultural area. Featured throughout the city are colorful, glazed tiles found on churches, plazas and streets. Good examples are the Church of San Francisco with its blue-and-white tiled dome and a suspended glass boat in the transept, and Carmen, at the Plaza Morelos, with a tiled dome and intricate façade, as well as the Church of San Miguelito in the old part of the city. Other sites include the Palacio de Gobierno (1770), housing paintings of former governors, and the colonial treasury, the Antigua Caja Real (1767).
ZacatecasAt the time Zacatecas was founded by the Spanish in 1546, the nearby silver mines were among the richest in the country. Much of the revenue was sent to Spain, but enough remained to finance the fine cathedrals and palaces. The Convent of Guadalupe houses one of the largest art collections of the Americas and is also an important place for pilgrimages.
Northcentral MexicoThe northcentral part of the country is mostly desert: a vast, high, windswept plateau flanked by the Occidental and Oriental chains of the Sierra Madre. Most of the population is gathered in several large cities; parts of the plateau are used for agriculture, but much of the north bears little trace of human habitation.
The remarkable Copper Canyon Railway passes through Chihuahua on its way from Ojinaga on the Río Grande to the Gulf of California. It is an engineering miracle in itself and also provides a good way of seeing the canyons, mesas and bare peaks of the Sierra Madre Occidental. The view at the Barranca del Cobre, where the Urique River has cut a 1840m- (6136ft-) deep chasm through the mountains, rivals the Grand Canyon. The journey lasts about 13 hours.
ChihuahuaChihuahua, capital of the state of the same name (Mexico’s largest), is an important industrial and commercial center. There are many edifices dating from the colonial era, including the 18th-century Cathedral, the Government Palace, the City Hall and Quinta Luz, which is the Villa Museum (containing Pancho Villa memorabilia). There is a monument to the División del Norte de Doroteo Arango (Pancho Villa in the unfamiliar guise of his real name). Entertainments include bullfights, dog and horseraces, nightclubs and restaurants.
Ciudad JuárezIn the state of Chihuahua, Ciudad Juárez has a commercial and cultural center with modern buildings based on traditional styles of architecture. The handicrafts section includes
sarapes (blankets) and glassware. There are bullfights, and horse- and greyhound-racing, along with a good nightlife. Restaurants serve international and Mexican food.
The West CoastThe west coast of Mexico incorportates the Baja California; a peninsula 1100km (700 miles) long that extends south from Tijuana into the Pacific Ocean. It comprises two states, Baja California and Baja California Sur. The enclosed Gulf is rich in marine life and offers excellent opportunities for experienced divers and anglers (although the currents are treacherous). La Laguna ojo de Liebre is an important breeding ground for whales, particularly the gray whale, which is often referred to as the ‘Mexican Gray’ whale. The estuary of the Colorado River lies at the top of the Gulf; only a trickle of fresh water now reaches the sea, most having been diverted for agriculture far upstream. The interior is mountainous desert, for the most part waterless and inhabited by only the hardiest plants and animals.
TijuanaTijuana claims to be ‘the world’s most visited city’, receiving more than 20 million visitors every year, many of them day-trippers from California. With San Diego just a few miles away across the border, it is the land gateway to and from the USA, thriving on the sale of souvenirs.
MexicaliThe capital of Baja California Norte, Mexicali provides a base for those who wish to explore the surrounding mountains and countryside of Rumorosa.
La PazLa Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur, is in a bay on the Gulf of California. Watersports and deep-sea angling are well catered for. The beaches of Las Hamacas, Palmeira, El Coromuel and Puerto Balandra provide excellent bases for swimmers and skindivers; the waters are calm and clear. Fish and seafood figure prominently on local menus.
PatzcuaroSituated in the coastal state of Michoacan, in westcentral Mexico, Patzcuaro is best known for butterfly net fishing for whitefish. Every Friday morning the plaza is covered with numerous market stalls, offering ceramics, woodcarvings, copper and woven goods, laquerware and even furniture for sale. The
Days of the Dead on November 1 and 2 are celebrated on the Island of Janitzio like nowhere else in Mexico.
ColimaColima, the capital of the state of the same name, is located near Mexico’s mid-Pacific coast. Founded in the 11th century, when it was known by the Aztec word ‘Cajitlán’, the city was captured in 1523 by Spanish conquistadors loyal to Cortés. One of its principal sights is the Cathedral whose twin towers were constructed out of volcanic stone quarried from the local Volcán de Colima National Park, one of whose peaks, the Volcán del Fuego de Colima, last erupted in 1991. Colima also hosts a festival, the ‘Virgin of the Health’ in late January and early February, where amateur toreadors can attempt to overpower a local bull in the
Torre de Once competition.
Beach ResortsOn the Baja Peninsula, Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo are the main tourist destinations, offering miles of excellent beaches. At Cabo San Lucas on the tip of the peninsula, 260km (162 miles) from La Paz, seals may often be seen.
MazatlánFamed as an angling center, Mazatlán also has numerous beaches and facilities for surfing, skindiving, tennis, golf, riding and shooting. The name of the town means ‘Place of the Deer’ in the Nahuatl language, an indication of the town’s longstanding association with sporting activities. The
malecón, which runs along the beachfront, is disguised by a variety of names, being named Avenida Camaron in the north and then proceeding through a number of name changes until it becomes Olas Atlas in the south. In the evening, strollers promenade along this beachfront among the
arañas (covered carts), 4-wheeled carriages and 3-wheeled taxis. The Mirador is a tower on the
malecón from which divers give a spectacular display twice a day. ‘El Faro’ on the promontory of Cerro del Creston is one of the highest lighthouses in the world. There are direct flights from Los Angeles as well as from numerous Mexican cities, and a ferry crosses regularly from La Paz in Baja California. The island of Mexcaltitán nearby is said to be the original home of the Aztecs.
Puerto VallartaPuerto Vallarta is the largest town in the immense Bahía de Banderas resort area (one hour 10 minutes by air from Mexico City). It is situated on the Bahía de Banderas, which is the largest natural bay in Mexico. There are a hundred miles of coastline with many sandy beaches and facilities for parasailing, shooting, scuba diving, sailboarding, fishing, golf and tennis. Boat trips provide opportunities to explore the coast. For the visitor who would relish the experience of journeying in a dugout canoe, there is the chance to visit Yelapa, a Polynesian-style village which cannot be visited in any other way. The mountains behind the bay may be explored on horseback. Charreadas, uniquely Mexican rodeos, are held at certain times of the year. Amongst the smaller resorts are San Blas, Barra de Navidad and Zihuatanejo.
ExcursionsManzanillo, a major seaport, has recently become an important resort. The emphasis is on watersports, but the spacious beaches afford good swimming. Fishing is of a world-class standard. Ixtapa, to the south of Manzanillo, is a new resort complex with moorings for yachts and a golf course.
AcapulcoSituated on Acapulco Bay, Acapulco is probably the most famous beach resort in Mexico. The town stretches for over 16km (10 miles) round the bay. It has many beaches as well as numerous top-class hotels. The
malecón (seaside promenade) runs along the beaches. There is a square in the center of the old town to the west of the Bay. This lively and fashionable resort offers skindiving, angling, parachute sailing, water-skiing, golf, tennis, riding and the unique spectacle of the Quebrada divers. The waters of the Bay are famous for their calmness and safety, though the beach of La Condesa has rougher waters and good surf for those who want it. The two beaches nearest the center of the town are Playa Caleta and Playa Caletilla; the sun on these is considered to be at its best in the morning. The late afternoon sun is thought to be best on Playa Hornos, which is further around the bay to the east. Scuba-diving lessons can be arranged on request. Nearby is Roqueta Island, visited regularly by glass-bottomed boats, from which the underwater image of the Virgin of Guadalupe can be seen. The island itself is popular for family trips.
Fort San Diego, in the middle of the town, is where the last battle of the Mexican War of Independence was fought. Admission is free but it is closed on Thursdays. Behind the town of Acapulco rise the Sierra Madre Mountains, a favorite location for photographers who relish the greenery, the rocky cliffs and the breathtaking views over the bay.
16km (10 miles) away is Pie de la Cuesta which has a lagoon and several large beaches. The surf is rough.
Puerto Escondido and Puerto AngelFurther down the coast from Acapulco, in Oaxaca state, are the well-known resorts of Puerto Escondido and Puerto Angel. Puerto Escondido (Hidden Port), once an isolated fishing village, has now developed into a well-equipped resort, though it has still retained some of its original character. The string of beaches stretching from the main bay are frequented by bathers, surfers and fishermen. On the hills behind are cheap restaurants and hotels. Puerto Angel, to the west, also a fishing port, is relatively low-key and sleepy. Charming secluded beaches are its main attraction, plus authentic eating places and cheap accommodation. Nearby is the famous beach of Zipolite, a 2km- (1.2 mile-) stretch of palm-fringed, white sand, which, although renowned amongst surfers, has treacherous undercurrents; local people rarely swim there.
HuatulcoOne of Mexico’s newest resort areas is at Huatulco, a group of nine interlocking bays set against rainforest-covered mountains. Until the mid-1980s, this area was a sleepy fishing village with no water or electricity. However, a carefully planned expansion program has brought luxury hotels and other amenities to the area, while strict regulations conserve its natural beauty. The beaches include Playa La Entrega (good for snorkeling with beautiful, calm water) and Bahía Tangolunda (where there is an 18-hole golf course). Watersports and other activities are easily arranged.
The East CoastMonterreyIn the North, Mexico’s industrial powerhouse stands beneath the highest peaks of the Sierra Madre Oriental in a setting of great natural beauty. The remnants of Monterrey’s more tranquil past (the Cathedral, the Palacio del Gobierno, the Obispado) compete with its present-day preoccupations.
VeracruzThe capital, which shares the state’s name, is a lively seaport, with excellent seafood cuisine – the visitor will particularly enjoy carnival time in this easy-going city, which is also well known for its lively nightlife. For centuries, Veracruz was Mexico’s main seaport, and it has seen invasions by the French and the Spanish, as well as numerous attacks by pirates. Its colorful history is reflected in its architecture, the highlights of which date from the 17th and 18th centuries. The main square or
zócalo, said to be the oldest in Mexico, features the Palacio Municipal (containing the tourist office) and the Cathedral. Street cafes, hotels and bars add to the lively atmosphere. Nearby beaches include Mocambo and Boca del Río, 9km (5.6 miles) and 13km (8 miles) to the south respectively. The Isla de Sacrifios, accessible by ferry, also has attractive beaches and is the site of a pre-Hispanic shrine. Veracruz is also known for its exceptional seafood cuisine.
El TajínApproximately four hours north of Veracruz lie the ruins of the Totonac city of El Tajín, one of Mexico’s most impressive ancient sites. Most of the buildings to be seen on this extensive site date from AD 600-700, while the Totonac civilization was at its height at around AD 600-900. Abandoned around 1200, El Tajín was rediscovered by the Spaniards in 1785. The central edifice is the Píramide de los Nichos, so called because of the 365 square niches on the sides of the building, representing the solar year. Around the pyramid are 11 ball courts whose walls are carved with bas-reliefs depicting human sacrifices, warriors and ball games. Behind this edifice is a network of buildings, El Tajín Chico, which is dominated by the Edificio de las Columnas, featuring massive columns covered in mosaics. An ancient Totonac ritual is performed daily at about noon by the ‘voladores’ of Papantla. Five men in traditional dress climb to a small platform at the top of a pole where one of them performs a dance in honor of the sun god, accompanying himself on the drum and whistle. Meanwhile, the other four wrap themselves in rope fastened to a suspended frame. At a given signal, they launch themselves gracefully into space, rotating exactly 13 times, arms outstretched to greet the sun while the rope unwinds. The exact significance of this ritual is unknown, though it is thought to relate to a pre-Hispanic calendar.
The Yucatán PeninsulaMore than 3000 years ago, there emerged a highly sophisticated civilization, the Mayas, in the diverse landscape of what is now Guatemala, Belize, western Honduras and part of El Salvador, as well as the Mexican states of Yucatan, Quintana Roo and Campeche. The variety of landscape is matched by the abundance of flora and fauna, unrivalled anywhere else in the continent. Birdlife, especially, seems to abound, including toucans, parrots and macaws, hummingbirds and others. The lowland rainforest of Chiapas, Campeche and Quintana Roo is home to such exotic wildlife as ocelots, margays, whitetail deer, anteaters, peccaries, tapirs, howler and spider monkeys and jaguars, the largest wildcats in the Americas. The upland cloud-forests are home to the multicolored
guacamayas as well as the resplendent and elusive
quetzal, an emerald-colored bird with trailing feathers considered sacred by the Mayan Indians. The coast also supports a wealth of birdlife, as well as alligators and
manatee, a rare aquatic animal distantly related to the elephant, which can be found in the coastal lagoons. The Wildlife Reserve of Contoy Island is the resting and nesting place for hundreds of migrant and resident birds. Even the underwater world can offer a richness of species such as marlin, snapper, grouper, bonito, wahoo, shrimp, lobster, octopus and sailfish, and the beaches are important nesting places for sea turtles during the summer months.
At the height of their development (AD 250-900), the Mayans built extraordinary temples and ceremonial centers, many of which are now engulfed by the rainforest. Among the most important archaeological sites to be found in this region are Palenque and Bonampak (Chiapas); La Venta and Comacalco (Tabasco); Edzna, Chicanna and Becan (Campeche); Chichén-Itzá and Uxmal (Yucatán) and Tulum and Coba (Quintana Roo).
MéridaThe capital of Yucatan State is Mérida, the ‘White City’, founded in 1542 on the site of an ancient Mayan town. It has an air of elegant, faded grandeur, a legacy of its once worldwide importance as a center of
henequén (sisal used in the manufacture of rope) production. It is still reckoned to be one of the best places in Latin America to buy fine quality cotton hammocks. There is much to keep the tourist here, including a fine cathedral, the Casa de Montejo, and a Museum of Anthropology, but above all it is a good base for excursions.
PalenqueNestled in the foothills at the edge of the Chiapas rainforest lies Palenque. This small but important Mayan site is one of the most aesthetically appealing sites of the Mayan world, with its exquisite stucco façades. The Temple of Inscriptions (above the crypt of a Maya king), the Multileveled Palace and the Temple of the Count are other highlights. It is easily reached in a couple of hours' drive from Villahermosa or San Cristobal de las Casas.
BonampakThe site of Bonampak, 150km (90 miles) southeast of Palenque, is famous for the finest Mayan murals ever to be discovered. Housed in the Temple of Frescoes, the multicolored murals depict scenes of Mayan warfare, sacrifice and celebration.
La VentaThe museum park of Parque-Museo La Venta not only boasts one of the few extensive collections of Olmec artifacts, but it is also the only archaeological site ever to be completely transplanted. The original Olmec city of La Venta (1500 BC) was situated on the island of Tonala and featured, among other exceptional sculptures, the colossal human heads that now characterize the Olmec civilization. Originally evacuated in 1925, it was moved to Villahermosa in the 1970s because of the fear that nearby oil drilling would damage the site. The museum park contains 30 Olmec sculptures set in a botanical garden.
ComacalcoAbout 67km (42 miles) from Villahermosa is Comacalco. This archaeological site of the Maya civilization dates back to the late Classic period (AD 500-900). Some of the structures resemble those at Palenque though they are still unique in the region. All the buildings here are made from bricks rather than the stone used elsewhere. In fact, Comacalco means ‘in the house of bricks’. Sights include the Great Acropolis with its detailed stucco masks and the small museum.
EdznaEdzna, 65km (40 miles) southeast of Campeche, dates back to 300 BC. Besides the Chenes-style architecture, visitors can also see an extensive network of canals, reservoirs and waterholes. Attractions include the Great Acropolis, the Small Acropolis, the Platform of the Knives, the Ball Court, the Temple of Stone Masks and the Nohochna.
Chichén-Itzá('City of the Water Wizards'.) The famous archaeological and UNESCO World Heritage Site of Chichén-Itzá, 120km (75 miles) south of Mérida, contains the Pyramid of Kukulcan (El Castillo), where one can find the ‘Red tiger with jade eyes’. During the spring and autumn equinoxes (21-22 March and 21-22 September), huge crowds gather to see a unique spectacle, when shadows create the illusion of a serpent descending the northern staircase. Of interest are also the snaking columns of the Temple of the Warriors, a ball court in perfect condition, El Caracol (the observatory), the Caves of Balankanche and the Sacred Cenote (where bejewelled young girls were thrown into the well as sacrifices to the rain god Chac).
UxmalThe elaborate stucco work and detailed façades of Uxmal, 80km (50 miles) south of Mérida, have led to a comparison of the city with Rome. Among the fine stonework are the entwined serpents in the Nun’s Quadrangle, the House of Pigeons and the Ball Court. Other attractions include the Pyramid of the Magician and the Governor’s Palace.
TulumThe walled fortress of Tulum, 131km (78 miles) south of Cancún, has been described as one of the most dramatic sites of the pre-Hispanic world. Perched atop rugged cliffs on the coast, this last outpost of the Maya civilization commands a breathtaking view of the Caribbean. Settlement here dates from AD 900-1500 and sights include the Temple of the Descending God, El Castillo and the Temple of the Frescoes.
CobaCoba, 38km (24 miles) north of Tulum, is possibly the largest archaeological site on the Yucatán peninsula. This town, set amongst dense jungle and marshlands and including four lakes, dates from the classical period and is believed to have been occupied during the time of the conquest. The most significant groupings of sites are the Coba Group, Las Pinturas, the Macanxoc Group, the Crossroad Pyramid and the Chumuc Mul Group. It also houses the tallest structure in Yucatán, the Nohoch Mul Pyramid.
Beach ResortsCancún, Cozumel, and Isla Mujeres were once little more than sleepy villages, but now these Caribbean Coast resorts are world renowned for their vacation facilities. The Isla de Cancún, made up of some of Mexico’s most expensive beachfronts occupies the northeast tip of the Yucatán. The
Punta, or point of the island, is nestled between the Bahía de Mujeres (Bay of Women) and the Caribbean Sea and boasts some of the best areas for sunbathing on the Peninsula. At the tip of the point is Playa Chac Mool, a public beach area offering comfortable dining and shopping. Although the beaches of Cancún are known for their powder white sand and exquisite beauty, the waters along the east edge of the island are subject to strong undertow and should be treated with caution. Lifeguards are posted on the beaches fronting most of the major hotels and swimming is encouraged in these areas only. On the west side of the island are the shimmering waters of Laguna Nichupté (Nichupté Lagoon) and Laguna Río Inglés (English River Lagoon), which are home to 200 species of birds and host a number of watersports. The Ciudad de Cancún borders the west side of the lagoons, and is a good place for shopping. South of the point lies the Zona Arqueológica El Rey, with a small collection of Mayan ruins. The Isla Mujeres, once known for its remote jungle and mysterious ambience, attracts visitors who prefer to explore the less developed areas of the Peninsula. Accessible by a 20-minute boat ride from Cancún, the island is home to six different species of endangered turtles, and a marine farm that oversees their protection. The reefs of Los Manchones, Cuevones, Chital and La Bandera are prized diving spots, known for their extraordinary marine life and unusual cave structures. South of Cancún is the equally prized beach resort of Cozumel, with its extraordinary coral reefs, gentle currents and exceptional diving.
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