The Republic of Yemen is the least known and, in many ways, the most spectacular region of all Arabia. As much of the Central Highlands rise over 3000m (10,000ft), travelers should be prepared for the high altitudes. The attraction of the Republic of Yemen for the visitor is largely its striking scenery, spectacular Islamic and pre-Islamic architecture and the deep sense of the past. Tours are available within and around the major cities; enquire at local travel agents for details.
Sana’a & Area Sana’a This area has been intensely cultivated for centuries
and is the site of many of the major towns. Sana’a, the modern capital and long an important citadel along the trade route between Aden and Mecca, dates back to the first century and, according to popular legend, to early biblical days. The citadel, Qasr al-Silah, was rebuilt after the arrival of Islam in the seventh century and is still intact. The old center is surrounded by the remains of the city walls, which can be seen in the south along Zuberi Street before Bab al-Yemen, in the east along Mount Nugum starting from the walls of the citadel, and in the north on the road from Bab Sha’oob to Taherir Square. The 1000-year-old Bab al-Yemen Market is divided into 40 different crafts and trades. The spice market is one of the best to visit, standing out from the rest by the rich aroma of incense and famed Arabian spices. Other markets include the Souk al-Nahaas, once the copper market, now selling embroidered head-dresses, belts and jambias (curved daggers). The Great Mosque of Sana’a is the oldest and largest of the mosques in Sana’a and one of the oldest in the Muslim world, constructed in the lifetime of the Prophet and enlarged in AD 705. The layout is typical of early Islamic architecture, with an open, square courtyard, surrounded by roofed galleries. The ruins of Ghamdan's Palace is east of the Great Mosque on an elevated mound. The National Museum is located in Taherir Square in Dar al-Shukr (or the ‘Palace of Gratefulness’); it contains engravings of pre-Islamic times, bronze statues, a beautiful mashrabia (cooling place for water) and several examples of folk art. It offers a good view of Taherir Square and the Muttawakelite Estate from the roof.
Elsewhere Some 8km (5 miles) north of Sana’a is Rawdha, a garden city famous for its sweet grapes, the mosque built by Ahmed ibn al-Qasim and the Rawdha Palace, now used as a hotel. Amran, north of Rawdha, lies on the edge of the fertile basin of al-Bawn. The city is surrounded by the old clay city walls of pre-Islamic, Sabean origin. Hajjah is a day’s journey to the west of Sana’a. The countryside is made up of high mountains and large valleys, including the Wadi Sherez, 1000m (3280ft), and Kohlan, 2400m (7875ft). Hajjah itself is a citadel, situated on the central hill of Hajjah, famous for underground prison cells used by the Imams. Hadda Mountain, south of Sana’a, is dotted with villages and orchards growing apricots, peaches, walnuts and almonds. The village of Hadda has two old Turkish mills. Wadi Dhar, 10km (6 miles) from Sana’a, is an idyllic valley filled with grapes, pomegranates and citrus fruits, surrounded by a barren plateau. Shibam, 36km (22 miles) from Sana’a, is a pre-Islamic settlement, protected by the great fortification of Koukaban.
The West & Southwest Ta’izz The city of Ta’izz lies in the south at an altitude of 1400m (4590ft). The old city has been all but swallowed up by the fast-growing modern city around it but beautiful old houses and mosques remain within the line of the 13th-century city wall, which is still intact along the southern side. To the north, only the gates of Bab Musa and al-Bab al-Kabir remain. The southern wall offers a splendid view of Ta’izz. Al-Qahera, within the city walls, is the fortress and the oldest part of the city. Al-Ashrafiya and al-Mudhaffar are two of the most beautiful mosques in Yemen. The museum in the Palace of Imam Ahmed contains the personal effects of the last Imam, and has preserved the spirit of Yemen from before the beginning of the Republic. The Salah Palace, to the east just outside the city, is another museum of the royal family. The Souk Ta’izz sells a variety of goods, including silverware and carpets. Mount Saber is 18km (11 miles) from Ta’izz and offers a breathtaking view of the city and the Ta’izz basin. A heavy-duty vehicle is needed to drive to the top. The mountain rises to an altitude of 3000m (9840ft) and the weather can be very cold.
The Red Sea Coast Mocha is an old Himyarite port on the Red Sea. In the 17th and 18th centuries, Mocha enjoyed a boom period exporting coffee, which was becoming fashionable in Europe (particularly Amsterdam and Venice, where the first coffee houses were opened). Coffee was later cultivated elsewhere and Mokha fell into decline. In recent years, the Government has improved the harbor and communications within Mokha in an attempt to resurrect this once-prosperous city. Hodeida is reached via the mountains of Manakha. A modern city port on the Red Sea, the harbor itself was completed in 1961. There is little here of historical interest apart from the fish market, where fishing boats have been built from wood in the same way for hundreds of years.
Elsewhere The Tihama in the west has a negligible rainfall and is predominantly hot, humid and sparsely populated. The road south from Sana’a to Ta’izz runs through extremely mountainous countryside and passes the towns of Dhofar, the ancient capital of the Himyarites (115 BC–AD 525), and Ibb, a once-important stopping point on the Sana’a to Ta’izz road. Remains of the city walls and an aqueduct can still be seen. The Sumara Pass, at an altitude of 2700m (8860ft), gives a spectacular panoramic view over the Yarim and Dhamar basins. Along another route, running roughly parallel to the Red Sea coast, Beit al-Faqih, 60km (37 miles) inland from Hodeida, has a good craft market. Manakha, once a road station for the Ottoman Turks, is situated on a saddle of the Haraz Mountains. Traditional Ismaeli villages lie to the east. This area is exceptionally good for hiking.
The North Sa’dah The walled city of Sa'dah was once an iron mining and tanning center and an important station along the Himyarite Sana’a–Mecca trade route. Later, Sa’dah was chosen as the capital of the Zaydi state and became the center of Zaydi learning. The al-Hadi Mosque is still an important institution for education in Zaydism. It is possible to walk along the top of the city walls, which afford good views of the city. The Najran Gate in the north is the most interesting of the gates, protected by an alleyway leading to the doors. The Great Mosque is the central building in the city. The market sells traditional stone necklaces and some fine silverware. The Sa’dah Fortress is the seat of the provincial government, thickly walled, and once the Imam’s residence. Outside the city is the Zaydi Graveyard, filled with some of the most beautiful gravestones in Yemen. The Sad’ah Basin is strikingly fertile, providing Yemen’s early crops of grapes, and is excellent for walking and hiking.
Mareb Once the capital of the kingdom of Sheba, Mareb is now largely in a state of disrepair. Blocks of stone with Sabean writing bear testament to the history of the city. Southwest of Mareb is the ancient Mareb Dam, used thousands of years ago to irrigate the surrounding land. The dam fell into disuse around AD 570, after which large numbers of people emigrated northwards. The stonework is impressive, measuring 600m (1968ft) wide and 18m (60ft) deep.
Elsewhere Between Sana’a and Sa'dah in the north lies the Wadi Wa’aar. The climate here is subtropical, and mangoes, papayas and bananas grow freely. Out of this rises the Shahara, a huge mountain massif, the highest point being nearly 3000m (9840ft) above sea level. This can be climbed by foot or by 4-wheel drive car; Shahara City offers overnight accommodation. Shahara Bridge, built in the 17th century, connects two mountains and can still be crossed by foot. The Eastern Mountains (al-Mashrik) slope down from an altitude of 3000m to 1100m (9840ft to 3610ft). The landscape gradually turns to sand dunes where the population decreases; agriculture is concentrated around wadies.
Aden The history of Aden as a port goes back a long way; it is mentioned in the Biblical Book of Ezekiel (c. 6th century BC). There is a collection of pre-Islamic artifacts in the National Museum of Antiquities near Tawahi Harbour. Crater, the oldest part of the city, lies in the crater of an extinct volcano and is where the most ancient constructions in Aden may be seen. These are the Aden Tanks, manmade reservoirs, partly cut out of the rock, with a storage capacity of 50,000,000 liters. When it rains, the upper basins fill up first and then overflow into the lower basins. Also in Crater may be found the Ethnographical Museum and the Military Museum. The 14th-century Mosque of Sayyid Abdullah al-Aidrus commemorates the patron saint of Aden. In Ma’allah, the visitor can see traditional Arab boats. To the south of Aden is Little Aden, also in the crater of an extinct volcano; this is an area of small fishing villages in sheltered bays, with several superb beaches fringing the Indian Ocean.
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