Often overshadowed by its much larger eastern neighbor, Spain, Portugal has its own distinct language, identity, customs, landscapes and scenery. Despite the encroachment of tourism, it remains one of the least spoilt corners of Europe. Portugal can conveniently be divided into five regions: Porto and the north, Beiras, Lisbon and the Tagus Valley, Alentejo and the Algarve. Portugal’s Atlantic islands, the
Azores and
Madeira, are covered separately in this guide. For more information, see their individual entries.
Lisbon & the Tagus ValleyLisbonLisbon (Lisboa),
the capital of Portugal, enjoys one of the most dramatic settings of any European capital, clinging to a series of steep hillsides at the estuary of the River Tagus (Rio Tejo), just 10km (6 miles) from the Atlantic Ocean. Perched above the old Moorish quarter of Alfama, characterized by twisting, cobbled streets and whitewashed houses, is the magnificent Castle of São Jorge. Founded in the 12th century, its 10 towers crown the hill where the original colony was situated in Phoenician times. Lisbon Cathedral (
Sé) dates from the same period as the castle and was an important element in the fortifications. The downtown Baixa district was built on a grid formation following the devastating earthquake in 1755. Today, it is one of Lisbon’s best areas for shopping (especially crafts – gold, silver and jewelry). This is a lively area with plenty of cafes and terrace restaurants.
Baixa slopes down towards the River Tagus, Lisbon’s main waterway, where visitors can take an interesting boat trip along the estuary and across to the picturesque southern shore. An antiquated elevator operates between Baixa and the aptly named Bairro Alto (Upper Town), home of
Fado, the traditional folk music of Lisbon. Also worth a visit is the Gulbenkian Foundation, a cultural center and museum set in its own park. The museum houses a range of artifacts, from Oriental jewelry to French impressionist paintings. The exhibition grounds of ‘Expo ’98’ are now known as the Park of Nations. Its attractions include the second largest Oceanarium in the world, a Virtual Reality Pavilion, and the Vasco da Gama Tower. The 850m-tower (2788ft) offers excellent views of the city and beyond.
The fin-de-siècle glories of the Chiado quarter, traditional haunt of artists and writers, are now re-emerging after a fire in 1988 which destroyed large parts of the city. Also worth seeing is the 2.5km- (1.5 mile-) long suspension bridge over the Tagus which is overlooked by a towering statue of Christ. The riverside suburb of Belém is where the ships of Vasco da Gama, Àlvares Cabral and other famous explorers were launched in the 15th and 16th centuries. The attractions here include the strikingly beautiful prison tower, known as the Torre de Belém (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), the Monument to the Discoverers, the Hieronymite Monastery – one of the architectural glories of Portugal’s Golden Age – and the Coach Museum.
ElsewhereThere are two famous seaside resorts close to the capital. Estoril predates the tourist boom of the 1960s but has adapted well to changing tastes and demands. The elegant hotels, which fringe the glorious Tamariz Beach, maintain the standards of the pre-war era. The entertainment on offer includes a casino, restaurants and nightclubs, watersports, golf and riding. Cascais has changed even more quickly, from a small fishing village with fine but empty beaches to a lively resort with bars, nightclubs and good-value restaurants. Sintra (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), a mountain town 25km (15 miles) from Lisbon, boasts the former summer residence of the Portuguese royal family, the Monserrate gardens and a twice-monthly antique market. A classical music festival takes place every July and August. Colares is an attractive village, famous for its red wines. Queluz has an 18th-century rococo palace, supposedly modeled on Versailles. Mafra is home to a Baroque convent built in 1717. Ericeira and Sesimbra are busy fishing villages with good beaches and developing facilities for tourists. Tróia is a modern tourist complex, situated on a peninsula near to the industrial town of Setubal, with a casino, marina, good beaches and sports facilities. The village of Palmela has a 12th-century castle and monastery, which is now a
pousada . There is a wine festival here in September. The shrine at Fátima has been an important center of Roman Catholic pilgrimage since 1917 when the Virgin Mary appeared to a group of children. Torchlight processions are held annually on May 13 and October 13. Battle Abbey (Mosteiro de Santa Maria) in Batalha is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a breathtaking example of Portuguese Gothic and Manueline architecture, built to commemorate the victory of King João I over a Castilian army in 1385. Obidos is a beautifully preserved fortified town, dating from the Middle Ages. Leiria, a quiet country town, is dominated by its 12th-century castle, built on a plateau high above the town. An annual fair takes place here at the end of March. Santarém is the capital of a rich agricultural district and the venue for the ‘Ribatejo Fair’ in June. Tomar is a charming town on the Nabão River overlooked by a great convent-castle, once occupied by the knights Templar. There are spas at Caldas da Rainha, Cucos and Vimeiro.
Porto & the NorthThis region of Portugal incorporates the historic city of Porto (Oporto), famous for Port wine, the remarkably lush coast, the valleys of the Douro and the Minho and part of Portugal’s highest mountain range, the Serra da Estrêla.
PortoThe second-largest city in Portugal was nominated European City of Culture for 2001 and the historical center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Founded by the Romans at the mouth of the River Douro, modern Porto (Oporto) is an industrial city with a wonderful atmosphere and plenty to see. The sights of the old town include the Cathedral (
Sé), dating from the 12th to the 18th centuries, the Church of São Francisco, famous for its rococo interior, a splendid example of Portuguese gilt-work (
talha dourada), the 19th century Stock Exchange and the Torre Dos Clérigos, which offers wonderful views. The old waterfront, known as the Cais da Ribeira (a World Heritage Site), caters for tourists with cafes, restaurants and an open-air market. Across the river, the 18th century Port wine lodges of Vila Nova de Gaia are open to the public for tours and tastings.
ElsewhereThe Cathedral of the ancient Roman town of Braga is an important center of the Roman Catholic church. The best time to visit is during Holy Week when the traditional street processions are impressive. Guimarães, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Portugal’s medieval capital, boasts a fine castle, the former palace of the Dukes of Bragança, as well as some attractive squares and churches. Póvoa de Varzim retains a small but attractive harbor, a reminder of its days as a fishing port. In recent years, fishing has taken a back seat to tourism, the 8km- (5 mile-) long beach being the main attraction. Rates and Rio Mau have splendid Romanesque churches. At Monte São Félix, the windmills have been converted into houses and there are panoramic views of the coast towards Póvoa de Varzim. Vila do Conde is a traditional fishing port and burgeoning resort, famous for its crafts such as ‘bone lace’ and chocolate-making. Ofir presents a vast expanse of sandy beach fringed by pinewoods. Barcelos is famous for its handicrafts, particularly ceramics which are on show at the Thursday market. The busy resort of Viana do Castelo is noted for its Renaissance and Manueline architecture as well as local products such as ceramics, embroidery, jewelry and filigree. There is a first-class beach across the river at Praia do Cabedelo. Valença is a 13th-century border town with a flourishing market and ancient fortifications. Monção, an attractive old town, is the home of the wine Alvarinho Vinho Verde. The Peneda-Gerês National Park comprises 170,000 acres (68,798 hectares) of mountainous countryside near the Spanish border. It is popular with hikers, climbers and naturalists. There are spas at Caldas de Vizela, Gerez, Monção and Pedras Salgadas.
BeirasBeiras is a region which includes three provinces (Beira Litoral, Beira Alta and Beira Baixa) but it is the wooded coastal strip that holds most appeal for tourists.
CoimbraPortugal’s third-largest city, Coimbra boasts one of the oldest universities in the world and is characterized by twisting streets and terraced houses. Worth visiting are the University, the magnificent Romanesque Cathedral (
Sé), the Art Museum housed in the former Bishop’s Palace and the 12th-century Monastery of the Holy Cross. Coimbra is also renowned as a center of
Fado, traditional Portuguese folk music.
ElsewhereAveiro, the ‘Venice of Portugal’, is a fishing port surrounded by salt flats, beaches and lagoons, and dissected by three canals. Torreira is a typical fishing village, lying between ocean and lagoon, which can be reached by boat from Aveiro. Figueira da Foz is a small but growing resort with an excellent surfing beach and casino. Anadia, the center of the wine-growing region of Bairrada, offers tastings in its cellars. At Conimbriga, fine Roman mosaics dating from the first century AD can be seen. Buçaco is renowned locally for its ‘enchanted forest’, cultivated by the Carmelite monks who arrived here in the 17th century. Pinhal do Rei is a beautiful pine forest with walking trails and some pristine beaches. Viseu, an impressively sited medieval town with a cathedral and bishops’ palace (now a museum) lies in a part of the country best known for its
Dão wine. There are spas at Curia, Luso and São Pedro do Sul. Serra da Estrêla is a natural park, with mountain scenery best appreciated from the car.
AlentejoThe Alentejo is an agricultural region, renowned for its cork plantations. It also boasts a number of barely discovered historic towns and an extensive coastline of windswept beaches.
EvoraThis beautiful, hilltop town, still protected by a ring of fortified walls enclosing cobbled streets and quaint houses, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The sights are numerous and include a splendid medieval Cathedral (
Sé), the Church of São Francisco, famous for its grisly ossuary, the 14th-century Palace of the Dukes of Cadaval and a ruined Roman temple.
ElsewhereMonsaraz is a splendid hilltop village near the Spanish border with traditional whitewashed houses, cobbled streets and fine views of the surrounding countryside. Marvão is an impressively sited medieval town, the clifftop location being the main attraction. Elvas retains its ramparts, gateways and historic old quarter. Vila Viçosa contains the former palace (now a museum) of the Dukes of Bragança.
The AlgarvePortugal’s southernmost region looks out onto the Atlantic on two sides. It is one of Europe’s favorite package destinations on account of its attractively rocky coastline and excellent sandy beaches. East of the capital, Faro, the beaches are interspersed with mud flats and sandbanks and the resorts are fewer in number and relatively low key. Watersports are one of the main attractions the Algarve is also home to numerous world-class golf courses.
FaroThe capital of the Algarve, Faro was devastated by the earthquake of 1755, but part of the old town has survived. Sights include the Cathedral (
Sé), rebuilt in the 18th century, an Archaeological Museum and the Carmo Church and ossuary.
LagosA former center of the slave trade, Lagos was where Henry the Navigator’s mariners set sail for West Africa on their voyages of discovery. The main sight is a 17th-century fort (now a museum), offering superb views of the town’s natural harbor. The pedestrianized town center is well provided with shops and restaurants and there are boat trips to nearby grottoes and beaches.
ElsewhereAlbufeira is a busy market town and well-established resort. Armação de Pêra is a fishing village with one of the biggest beaches on the Algarve. Carvoeiro is an old fishing village with a picturesque harbor. Portimão is one of the largest towns and fishing ports in the Algarve, known for its furniture and wickerwork. Its beach resort is Praia da Rocha. Vilamoura is a modern purpose-built resort with marina and golf courses. Sagres is noted for lobster fishing. The village contains the remains of a 15th-century
fort and there are beaches nearby. Cape St Vincent is the most southwesterly point of mainland Europe. Monte Gordo is a modern tourist resort with a casino, nightclubs, restaurants and a 20km- (12 mile-) long beach backed by pine forest. Tavira is one of the most attractive market towns in the Algarve with cobbled streets, several fine churches and a ruined castle. There are beaches at Cabanas and Pedras da Rainha. Inland, Monchique is set high in the mountains and has a spa. Silves is an old walled city with a 12th-century cathedral. Loulé is a market town famous for crafts such as leather and copper. The River Guadiana forms a natural boundary between Portugal and Spain. There are commanding hilltop views from the ruined fortresses at Castro Marim; nearby are the saltpans of the same name, now a nature reserve open for guided tours.
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