Grande Terre Nouméa The capital, near the southeastern tip of Grande Terre, overlooks one of the world’s largest sheltered natural harbors. Nouméa is a busy little city with a population composed of many racial groups: French, Melanesian, Polynesian and Vietnamese, amongst others. The main square, the Place des Cocotiers, has undergone extensive restoration. Minibuses, the Nouméa Explorer and Le Petit Train are probably the best ways of seeing the city and its suburbs. The center of the network is the bus station on the Place des Cocotiers. Attractions
in the city include St Joseph’s Cathedral, museums, the market, many old colonial houses and the Aquarium, one of the world’s leading centers of marine scientific research. Nearby, the South Pacific Commission Building houses a collection of native handicrafts from all over the South Seas. The New Caledonia Museum is open Tuesday to Saturday, and also contains many local handicrafts and ornaments. The new Museum of Maritime History (whose exhibits include artifacts from numerous local wrecks) is situated by the port in Nouméa. The Tjibaou Cultural Center in Nouméa is a new venue for concerts, plays and exhibitions celebrating indigenous cultural traditions.
Excursions Approximately 4km (2.5 miles) from the city center is the Botanical and Zoological Gardens, home to over 700 species of animals. Also near Nouméa is the Amedée Lighthouse, constructed in Paris during the reign of Napoleon III and shipped to New Caledonia in pieces. It is located in a coral reef, 18km (11 miles) from the capital. The lagoon, which is the biggest in the world, offers good opportunities for swimming and scuba-diving. East of the capital is Mont-Dore, a mountain surrounded by magnificent coastal scenery. On the way, stops can be made at the Melanesian village of St Louis and the Plum Lookout for a spectacular view across the surrounding reef. The Blue River Provincial Park is well worth a visit. Day trips are available from the capital.
The West Coast Some 170km (105 miles) from Nouméa is Bourail, where there are many elaborate and beautiful caves and rock formations shaped by the Pacific breakers. Further north is the ancient site of Koné, where decorated pottery dating back to the 10th century BC has been discovered. From the town of Koumac, a new road has been constructed which loops round the top of the island. The scenery consists of pure white sand beaches and offshore atolls, backed by dense rainforest.
The East Coast The new road takes one to Hienghéne, which has a lagoon surrounded by 120m- (400ft-) high black cliffs. Poindimié, the main town of the east coast, is further south. Nearby is Touho, overlooked by a 500m (1640ft) peak. The region is dotted with churches and Melanesian villages, forests, coconut palms and beautiful beaches. At the southern point of this coast is Yaté, a village surrounded by lakes, waterfalls and rich wooded countryside.
Outlying Islands Ile des Pins Discovered and named the Isle of Pines by Captain Cook in 1774, Ile des Pins lies some 70km (45 miles) off the southeast coast of Grande Terre. This exceedingly beautiful island has many white sand beaches and turquoise lagoons and is lush with rainforests, pines, orchids and ferns. Archaeological excavations have revealed settlements 4000 years old. The island was also briefly used as a convict settlement during the 19th century following the Paris Commune. The ruins of the jail can still be seen amongst the dense vegetation. There are many rural lodges, a luxury hotel and a more modest hotel. Both hotels are situated on or near beaches. Day trips are available from Nouméa to the Ile des Pins.
The Loyalty Islands This archipelago lies 100km (60 miles) off the east coast of New Caledonia, and is widely regarded as being superb for scuba-diving and spear-fishing. Maré Island, the furthest south, has an area of 650 sq km (250 sq miles). Most of the population lives in the village of Tadine. Lifou Island, the largest of the three with an area of 1150 sq km (445 sq miles), has over 7000 inhabitants. The main village is Chépénéhé. Ouvéa Island is 130 sq km (50 sq miles), but is rarely more than 3 or 4km (2 or 2.5 miles) wide. The lagoon is rich in fish. Almost all of the population lives in Fayaoué. There is accommodation on all these islands in the form of either hotels, motels or family lodgings.