Tirana Created in 1614 by Sulejman Bargjini, Tirana has only been the capital of Albania since 1920. The city has examples of early 19th-century architecture such as the Ethem-Bey Mosque (built 1789-1823) and the 35m- (117ft-) high clocktower (1830). The old bazaar quarter was demolished in 1961 to make way for the Palace of Culture, which houses the Opera and Ballet Theater and the National Library. The city center and the government buildings on Skanderbeg Square date back to the Italian era, creating the impression of a provincial Italian town, while the Pyramid, which was built as
a museum for Enver Hoxha (Albania’s former communist leader), has been turned into an international Cultural Center. Today, Tirana is not only the most populous city in Albania, but also the political, economic, cultural and spiritual center of the country with national museums of archaeology, history and art. The National Historical Museum and the National Art Gallery are highly recommended, along with the Exhibition of Folk Culture. The best view over the city is from the Martyrs’ Cemetery, which contains the Mother Albania Monument.
The Coast The important port of Durres is the second-largest city in Albania with the second-largest concentration of industry. The city was colonized by the Greeks in 627 BC and was named Epidamnos, later becoming Dyrrachium under the Romans. From the Venetian Tower at the harbor, the medieval Town Wall leads to the Amphitheater dating back to the second century BC and containing an early Christian crypt with a rare wall mosaic. There is also an excellent Archaeological Museum. Between the first and third centuries, Durres was an important port and trading center on the Via Egnatia trading route between Rome and Byzantium (Istanbul). Following a number of earthquakes, much of ancient Durres sank into the sea or collapsed and was subsequently built over. Today the city is best known for the nearby beach resort of Durres Plazh. In Roman times, Apollonia, located 12km (7.5 miles) from the city of Fier, was a large, prosperous city at the mouth of the river Vjosa where there is still much left to be excavated. The amphitheater, a colonnade of shops and several other parts of the Roman city center are open to the public. There are monuments of Agonothetes and Odeon, as well as an ancient portico and the Mosaic House with a fountain. Unfortunately, some of the statues and other portable objects were removed before 1946 and sent to other countries. Those remaining have been placed in the well-organized museum which is to be found on the site of a 13th-century monastery. In the courtyard of the monastery is a Byzantine-style church, the Church of St Mary, believed to have been built in the 14th century. Not far from Apollonia, on the route to Durres, is the Monastery of Ardenica. Vlora is not only a major port, but of great historical importance, for it was here in 1912 that the Assembly was convened which first proclaimed Albania an independent state and set up the first national government, headed by Ismail Qemali. In recognition of this, it was proclaimed a ’Hero City’ in 1962. The Muradiye Mosque (1538-42) was designed by the famous architect Mimar Sinan whose family originated in Albania. On a hill above the city is the tourist center Liria, which offers panoramic views of the beach and town. Albania’s southern coastline remains completely unspoilt. Situated opposite Corfu, Saranda is now much visited by day trippers who come to enjoy this previously inaccessible resort. The ancient town of Butrint was once an important center for the Illyrian tribes. It has been known as a settlement since 1000 BC and has belonged to both the Greek and Roman empires during its long history, leaving a rich legacy. Several sites dating from the first and fourth centuries AD can now be visited, among them a theater, the Temple of Aesculapius, the Nypheum, the Lion Gate, the Dionysus Altar, Roman houses and baths. The Baptistry, with a floor of colorful mosaics, is not to be missed. The nearby tourist site of Ksamil offers magnificent views of Butrint Lake, the islands and citrus- and olive-tree plantations.
The Interior Known as the ’city of a thousand windows’, owing to the plethora of windows in the city’s red-roofed houses, Berat has been declared a 'Museum City’. Built on the slopes of a mountain, the old Turkish part of the town is very picturesque, being largely encompassed by the medieval fortress. To house the growing population, a new town has been built further down the valley beside the largest textile combine in the country. The Onufri Museum, dedicated to the 16th-century painter and his contemporaries, houses restored icons in an orthodox church. There is also a magnificent castle near here. Gjirokastra, in the far south, has also been designated a ’Museum City’ as so many of the houses retain their traditional wood- and stonework. The narrow and winding cobbled streets ensure the virtual exclusion of motor traffic. The town is dominated by the 13th-century Fortress which was extended by Ali Pasha in 1811. It now contains the National Museum of Weapons; the collection ranges from medieval armour to a shot-down US reconnaissance aircraft (the museum was looted in 1997 but most of the collection is still there) and the view is not to be missed. The surrounding area is renowned for its many mineral springs. Korça was the seat of government during Turkish rule. In the 18th century, the city was able to exploit its location at the crossroads of several caravan routes and became a major trading point. Standing at the foot of the dramatic Morava mountain near the Greek border, Korça is home to the Mirahor Mosque, dating back to 1466, the Museum for Medieval Art, the Museum of Education (where the first Albanian school was opened in 1887) and a listed, though decaying, bazaar quarter. The charming resort of Pogradec near the Macedonian border stands beside Lake Ohrid, renowned for its clear water and rich in trout and carp. About 5km (3 miles) to the east is the tourist center of Drilon, surrounded by extensive ornamental gardens. Visible for miles around, Kruja is an attractive medieval town perched on top of a mountain north of Tirana. It was the center of Albanian resistance to the Ottoman Turks under Skanderbeg, the national hero, and the Skanderbeg Museum is to be found inside the recently restored castle. The street leading up to the castle is built in the style of a medieval Turkish bazaar. Situated on Lake Scutari, which divides Albania from Montenegro, Shkodra is dominated by the ruins of the Fortress of Rozafa, one of the ancient Ilyrian castles, built on a rock hill from which a spectacular panorama of the surrounding countryside, the lake and the Lead Mosque can be enjoyed. A museum is dedicated to one of the greatest Albanian writers, Migjeni. The Mesi Bridge, 8km (5 miles) from Shkodra, is also well worth a visit, as is the Monument to Gjergj Kastrioti Skanderbeg at his burial ground in Lezha.
