Tracy's Ride to Nowhere
By Tracy Steven Sbrilli
There's no X-marks-the-spot to this Baja, Mexico oasis, but you'll know it when you get there.
It is no walk in the park to get to the peninsula of Baja Conception, in fact it is no drive on pavement either, but once you reach the deserted white sand beaches on this spit of Mexican desert, you'll decide it was well worth the adventure.
Baja Conception is located about 800 miles south of the Mexican border in Baja, Mexico. If you find yourself in the town of Mulege on the East Coast, you're almost there. You won't find the peninsula well marked on any maps, and once you're ready to head off the beaten track, you'll discover that the roads to get there aren't marked either. Use Mulege as your last stop for fuel and supplies -- don't expect an EMS outlet -- and prepare for a four-wheeling, dust-eating ride to your own private oasis in the desert.
Fly into San Diego and rent a vehicle -- an SUV is preferable -- before you head into Mexico. The prices and options are better, and car insurance will be available to you. Hit Route 1 and take it all the way to Mulege. Route 1 looks like a pretty straight shot that sticks to the scenic coastline, but don't be fooled by your map. Instead, you'll spend hours without seeing the ocean at all, and some of that time on very steep, twisty mountainous sections of road where the going is extremely slow. Beware of death-defying local drivers and wandering heads of cattle and give yourself two full days to go the distance.
Drive south of Mulege and, because road signs are close to obsolete, keep your eyes on the coastline, slow down at the base of the peninsula and head due east on one of the many tracks that eventually converge on the far side of Conception Bay. Allow yourself a full day to work your way out; the peninsula is approximately forty miles long, the condition of the track is unreliable, and you will find yourself backtracking more than one time. Once you're out there, it's up to you to find the camping spot of choice.
The best source for tips on camping in Baja is the travel book by Lonely Planet. You can get the basics on campgrounds, supply sources, and where to catch the most fish or the biggest waves. I was surprised to find that resources are not readily available in Baja and that you really have to go with everything you need, and in perfect working order at that. My camp stove started acting up -- it seemed I needed a new fuel line -- before I left Mulege for the peninsula, but a trip to the local hardware store proved futile. The clerk happily declared that they did carry stoves, led me through a maze of fixtures and tools and waved grandly at an ancient electric kitchen stove.
Pack all of the food and water that you'll need for your stay on the peninsula, and because of the scarcity of trees, don't rely solely on natural resources for cooking. Plan to bring at least nine gallons of water for a five-day trip, as the only water you'll find out there is of the salted variety. Although the days are hot, the temperature drops significantly at night, so pack a variety of layers and don't skimp on a decent sleeping bag.
Your efforts in getting to this pristine spot will be greatly rewarded. More than likely, you will have your pick of spots to pitch a tent and enjoy the scenery. There are no laws against having fires, so build a good one on the beach and listen to the eerie calls of whales as they pass through Baja Conception. The dull hum of a passing motorboat -- a local fisherman out making his daily wage -- may be your only reminder of other human existence.
If you're looking for resort hospitality, camping on the peninsula may not be for you. But if you're tempted by an adventurous journey, endless stretches of deserted beach and cool turquoise waters, grab your gear, hop in an SUV and don't stop until the land does.
Date Entered: 6/23/2000
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