By Ron Kapon

I officially became a senior citizen in mid July when my Medicare card arrived. A few days later I was invited, by the French Government Tourist Office, to spend a week exploring Alsace and participating in a half dozen adventures. The other three people on this trip were half my age. Could I complete the tasks and survive in one piece? Read on.

More than eight centuries of German domination of Alsace ended with the Thirty-Year War, from 1618 to 1648, after which France ruled the region. From 1870 to 1918, and again during the Second World War, the area was under German rule. The Alsatian dialect is a blend of French and German. Most of the architecture, folklore, eating habits and even the grape varieties, originated across the Rhine River. The Alsatian vineyards cover an area of 45,000 acres, opposite the Black Forest, along the eastern slopes of the Vosges Mountains, on the French side of the Rhine. This is a lovely, gentle land, where hillsides are filled with grapevines that surround the villages, some of them little changed since the Middle Ages. The Wine Route of Alsace winds for 75 miles along the eastern side of the Vosges, across hillsides and deep valleys sprinkled with chateaux and half-timbered houses. The road is well signed. Alsace finds itself ideally placed for commerce, with easy access to the rich markets of Germany, Switzerland, Belgium, and the Netherlands.

Strasbourg is a metropolis with a population of over 250,000, the sixth-largest city in France. The international airport has regular 35-minute flights from Paris. The centrally located Beaucour Beaumann Hotel was my home for two days. The US Dollar being strong (7FF to $), my mini-suite cost around US$100. My walking tour, with a guide from the Strasbourg Tourist Board, began at the cathedral, with its 466-foot-high Gothic needle. It was the tallest building in Christendom when completed in 1439. There are over 4,600 stained glass panels and an ornate astronomical clock. Nearby is the Museum of the Works of the Cathedral with a collection of religious art, including many original carvings from the cathedral. A must is a visit to the section known as Petit France where geraniums and winding streets of multi-colored houses are interspersed around the canals of the Ill River. There is a one-hour ($6) river cruise past the modern European Parliament and Council of Europe. One of the better winestubs close by the cathedral (very popular with locals) is Le Clou.

Like Texans, Alsatians are the certified big eaters of France. There are three restaurants (out of 22) that have received 3 Michelin Stars in the region: Emile Jung's Au Crocodile, Antoine Westermann's Buerehiesel in Strasbourg, and Auberge de L'Ill in Illhaeusern (10 miles north of Colmar). Jean-George Vongerichten trained here. Try Choucroute Garnie, the French version of the chopped, pickled cabbage that the Germans call sauerkraut, or foie gras, the fattened livers of geese or ducks.

My first adventure was climbing in one of the forested valleys of the Bruche, half an hour from Strasbourg. My guide was Denis Firdion from the Club Alpin Francais. France has a very sensible answer to my main concern: medical coverage in case of an accident. Anyone belonging to a chartered licensed club or hiring a representative of that club is completely covered. I chose the beginner's climb up the rock face, after getting strapped into my harness. I did manage to get halfway up twice. The problem was my size 13 shoes would not fit into the small rock crevasses dug into the rock wall. I did not even attempt the advanced climb. The only cost was $5 to cover the insurance provision.

Mountain biking started out rather poorly when they could not find a helmet big enough for my 7 5/8th. head. I ride a bike around New York City; it weighs 50 pounds, has huge tires, a large basket, a big seat, and no gears. These were feather light, multi-speed bikes with a tiny seat. I managed to fall off twice and again chose the lesser course, down rather than up. I finished the trip without further incident. Jean Baptiste Clevenot of Bicycle Tours led our group. The guide charges $60 for the day (maximum of eight riders); the bicycles are $8 for each rental.

We had a break with a cellar and vineyard visit and wine tasting at Pierre Seltz in Mittelbergheim. Albert Seltz, the son, has been the winemaker since 1980. The firm began in 1576. His father, Pierre, is retired and lives in Southern California half the year, and is married to an American. Albert is passionate about Sylvaner, one of the seven allowable grape varieties in Alsace.

Alsatian wines are sold under the name of the grape from which they are made. Of the seven allowable grape varieties, only one is red: the cherry-like Pinot Noir. There is the fresh and light Sylvaner; the soft, delicate Pinot Blanc, the dry, distinguished Riesling; the fresh, fruity Muscat d'Alsace (not sweet); the full-bodied, powerful Tokay-Pinot Gris (the name Tokay is being dropped so as not to confuse it with the Hungarian dessert wine Tokay). There is also the rich, hearty, spicy Gewurztraminer. Two special categories are Vendanges Tardives (late harvest) and the Selection de Grains Nobles (selection of noble grapes) where all the grapes are affected by the noble rot.

I was looking forward to my strong sport-canoe racing on the Reid River. Our guides were from Itinerair Alsace, $35 per person (minimum eight) for six hours, drinks and equipment included. Leaves from Ebersmunster (halfway between Strasbourg and Colmar). I did not disappoint, finishing well ahead of my younger companions.

Hiking up the Vosges Mountains seemed a family thing. It was refreshing to see three generations of families out enjoying the beautiful weather. Lunch was at a farmhouse near Munster (think cheese). Hiking down was a lot easier. Visit the Munster Tourism Office to arrange for a guide. Half-day tour is $10 per person; one day is $20 (minimum 6). Lunch is extra.

We stopped for a short visit at Riquewihr, a town that gets over 2 million visitors a year, more than the Eiffel Tower. It is a well-preserved 13th-century medieval village with cobbled streets and ornate half-timbered houses.

The highlight of my trip was the hot air balloon ride over the Vosges Mountains to the German border at Freiberg. We reached 5,000 feet. The two-hour flight was followed by a glass of celebratory Cremant d' Alsace sparkling wine.

I declined the optional adventure motorized soaring (think Orville & Wilber Wright) when I noted one of the gutsy ones brushed against a tree and crashed (he was fine). I rested my body at the new Spa Hotel Verte Valle in Munster. They offered two indoor pools, Jacuzzi, sauna, massage and exercise equipment. Rooms are about $60.

My last adventure made the front page of the local paper. At the Ferme Equestre du Beau Site, I mentioned I rode horses, but only western style. They found a quarter horse of majestic stature that proceeded to gallop off while I held on. Once we became friends, my hours in the saddle passed quietly. We lunched at a local farmhouse. I did use a pillow that night at dinner.

The beauty of the region, the great food and wine, the friendly people (forget what you have heard about the French--that is only in Paris) made my weeklong adventure trip one to remember.