By Alison Ferry

"It might go or again it might not - it depends on how the skipper is feeling." If these words sound Irish, that's exactly what they were! We were in Connemara in southwest Ireland and inquiring as to the best way to get to Inishbofin Island - a small island off the Atlantic coast of Ireland. No visit to Connemara is complete without a trip to one of the islands, and we wanted to find one that was remote and with few visitors, thus retaining the charm and character of yesteryear.

It was with some anxiety that we drove to the tiny port of Cleggan, 12 kilometers from Clifden - the prettiest town in Connemara. Were we going to find the boat sailing or not? How long would we have to wait? Indeed would we be going at all and if we got there, would we get back? In spite of the timetable stating regular crossings, we learned that nothing is a certainty in this part of the world. On this particular occasion we were lucky. It was a beautiful day and the skipper was feeling agreeable! We climbed aboard and found our fellow passengers consisted of several day-trippers such as ourselves and a number of locals returning from a day or two on the mainland.

Inishbofin Island is situated 10 kilometers off the northwest coast of Connemara, and the magnificent scenery, historical and archaeological features, flora and fauna, and abundance of wildlife make it a favorite with writers, artists, and poets as well as those just wishing to "get away from it all." Total population of the island is under 200, and many of its inhabitants speak only Gaelic. Inishbofin is one of the most westerly points in Europe and is an island only 8 kilometers long by 5 kilometers wide.

It is estimated that Inishbofin was inhabited as far back as 4000 BC, but the first documented history of the island dates from Early Christian times. St. Colman and his monks landed on the island in 665, and the site of his monastery now holds the ruins of a 14th-century chapel, the walls and entrances of which are still standing and several large Celtic crosses dominate the area.

Our first glimpse of the harbor at Inishbofin was dominated at the entrance by the ruins of Cromwell's barracks, which resembled a fortified castle. The ruins stand as a reminder of the struggles between the Irish and the English over the centuries. Rumor has it that the barracks were originally a 16th-century Spanish pirate castle. Whether the truth or not, the ruins add to the enchantment of the island and provide a somewhat romantic aspect. The little port was bustling with the arrival of the ferry that also carried mail and supplies. We were greeted with the same warm welcome that we encountered all over Ireland and very soon found ourselves on bicycles and told to ride all over the island. "It won't take you long," one local told us "and you can't get lost!"

And so began our exploration of this place steeped in Irish culture and heritage. Riding up the hills and through little clusters of whitewashed cottages all with wonderful views of the rugged coastline, we almost expected to see fairies and leprechauns.

Eventually we came across a pub where a warm drink and a chat to the publican revealed more of the history of this small, self-contained part of the world. The people of the island are fiercely proud of their inheritance and guard their right to traditional practices. Folklore and superstitions play an important part in their daily lives. For instance, if they come across a bonfire, they take a piece of its kindling and throw it into the cooking pot. This is supposed to bring good luck.

The island thrives on farming and fishing, and there are many tales of shipwrecks and drownings. In days gone by a fisherman was identified in these parts by the pattern on his sweater, each island having its own design. Today Inishbofin still has its own distinctive pattern, samples of which can be found in the local craft shop. Traveling along the narrow roadway we came across a rough stone path, which led through peat moors and along the rugged cliffs. Sheep grazed quietly on the lush grass and fields were sometimes separated by low stone walls, built many years ago and entirely by hand. Farmers still dig for peat here and several cottages had turf fires in their hearths. We saw a variety of bird life and a number of seals basking on the rocks in the warmth of the sun. The feeling of peace and tranquility was all-encompassing. This was exactly what we had been seeking.

Our circumnavigation of the island brought us back to the harbor and lunch at Day's Hotel where delicious home-cooked meals and freshly baked Irish soda bread are on the menu. Accommodation is available at two hotels, a hostel and guest house. Local musicians are some of the finest exponents of traditional Irish music to be found anywhere in the country, and they play whenever and wherever they fancy, thus adding to the special magic of this unhurried and charming island.