We have selected some of the best restaurants in Istanbul, which we have divided into five categories: Gourmet, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments. Surprisingly perhaps, most of the best restaurants are found well away from the tourist hub of Sultanahmet. Apart from the budget places, reservations are recommended wherever possible, particularly in the case of upscale restaurants and especially at weekends.
These restaurants
have been further divided into four different pricing categories:
$$$$ (over US$70)
$$$ (US$40 to US$70)
$$ (US$20 to US$40)
$ (under US$20)
The prices quoted above are for an average three-course meal and for a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent; they do not include tax or tip.
GourmetAsitane
This restaurant is way out west near the city walls at Edirnekapi, next to the Kariye church museum and the hotel of the same name. The specialties here are authentic Ottoman dishes that were served at circumcision feasts during the time of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent. The cooking involves the use of ingredients like seasonal fruit and almonds. A good range of vegetarian and Mediterranean dishes are also available. Despite the delicious 16th-century food on offer, the décor is elegantly modern and the prices, quite reasonable.
Kariye Hotel, Kariye Camii Sokak 6, Edirnekapi
Tel: (0212) 534 8414.
Website:
http://asitanerestaurant.comPrice: $$/$$$
Tuğra
The ideal venue for a special occasion, Tuğra (pronounced ‘
Too-ra') has a wonderful array of traditional Ottoman dishes (plus some contemporary additions) and the setting is superb; its terrace overlooks the Bosphorus. There is a huge selection of hot and cold meze
(starters), which include vine leaves, soups and seafood, and main courses have chicken, beef and lamb cooked in endless different ways. There are also fish and vegetarian options and a very extensive winelist. The dessert buffet is one of Istanbul's finest, and there is live traditional music. There is a smart casual dress code and reservations are essential. Open in the evening only between 1900-2300.
Çirağan Palace Hotel Kempinski
, Çirağan Caddesi 32, Beşiktaş
Tel: (0212)
259 0394.
Website:
www.kempinski-istanbul.comPrice: $$$$
BusinessBalikçi SabahattinAn expensive seafood restaurant located near the water in Cankurtaran, Balikçi Sabahattin is probably the best - and priciest - in the Sultanahmet area. This is popular with politicians and businessmen wishing to impress their clients.
Meze and fresh seafood are the specialties, and the expensive cars parked outside demonstrate that many think it worth the trip across the Bosphorous to dine here.
Seyit Hasan Koyu Sokak 1, Cankurtaran
Tel: (0212) 458 1824.
Price: $$$$
Feriye Lokantasi
With a superb view from its enviable location on the banks of the Bosphorus near Ortaköy, Feriye has a fine reputation for hearty Turkish meat dishes. Lamb comes charcoal-grilled and everything is prepared in a traditional way that is adapted for the modern palate. The outdoor area comes complete with underfloor heating for cold evenings. Popular with wealthy businessmen and romantic couples alike. The Sunday buffet brunch is recommended. Reservations required for dinner.
Çirağan Caddesi 40, Ortaköy
Tel: (0212) 227 2216.
Website:
www.feriye.comPrice: $$$$
Trendy360
Located on the roof terrace of an apartment block on Istikal Caddesi, the name gives an indication of the view from here. Frequented by both wealthy Turks and foreign tourists, this has fusion cuisine that blends Turkish, Mediterranean and Oriental styles and ingredients. Reservations are necessary at weekends. After midnight the place turns into a trendy nightclub.
Misir Apartmani K8/311, istikal Caddesi
Tel: (0212) 251 1042/3.
Website:
www.360istanbul.comPrice: $$$
The House Café
On Ortaköy's waterfront, The House Café has a trendy, casual ambience and is perfect for an eggs Benedict Sunday brunch or innovative pizza (pear, Roquefort cheese and honey, for example) or risotto. Busy at weekends, it attracts a young lively (and fairly wealthy) crowd which knows its carpaccio from its calzone. Other branches around the city include ones at Istikal Caddesi and Tünel.
Salhane Sokak 1, Ortaköy
Tel: (0212) 227 2699/39.
Website:
www.thehousecafe.com.trPrice: $$/$$$
Leb-i Derya
On a shabby street off busy Istiklal Caddesi, this part ultra-stylish terrace bar, part lively restaurant serves up Ottoman cuisine with a twist. The place to come for early evening cocktails - but make a reservation for a table with a view to enjoy your
izgara levrek (grilled sea bass) or 40-spice steak. There is another branch at the Richmond Hotel at 227 Istikal Caddesi.
Kumbaraci Yokuşu 57/6, Tünel, Beyoğlu
Tel: (0212) 293 4989.
Website:
www.lebiderya.comPrice: $$$
Taksimoda
The cafe-restaurant of the Taxim Hill Hotel, this New York-style cafe has huge windows overlooking busy Taksim Square, which open to form a terrace in summer. Most popular for coffee, cakes, sandwiches and a decent breakfast, this is a great place to watch the world go by in a central location. Happy hour for beverages and cakes 1430-1800.
Taksim Hill Hotel, Siraselviler Caddesi 5, Taksim Meydani, Taksim
Tel: (0212) 334 8500.
Website:
www.taximhill.comPrice: $$
BudgetCanim Ciğerim
This tiny, simple cafe has just one thing on the menu: liver, cooked on a skewer and chopped on your plate, served up with salad and bread. There are several tables on the quiet street and the place, which is popular with local workers at lunchtime, is always busy. Friendly service, fresh food and very cheap in this charming area of Beyoğlu.
Asmalimescit Mahallesi Minare Sokak 1, Beyoğlu
Tel: (0212) 252 6060.
Price: $
Hala
A string of simple restaurants (the one off Istiklal is the most quaint) Hala serves up cheap, filling
gözleme - pancakes stuffed with cheese, potato, spinach or meat, and meat-filled
manti (local ravioli). In a rustic setting (complete with traditionally-dressed women making the fillings in the window) this is the perfect place for a tasty lunch accompanied by a soup or salad. No alcohol.
Istiklal Caddesi 211, Beyoğlu
Tel: (0212) 292 7004.
Price: $
Nature and Peace
In a carnivore's heaven like Istanbul, it is good to know that there are a few decent vegetarian places - although they have recently included a couple of meat dishes on the menu. In a backstreet in the heart of Taksim, Nature and Peace has a warm cosy feel. Its menu, with a good selection of daily specials, includes soups, lentil köfte, falafel and wonderful cakes. Vegan dishes and set menus are also available. The service is often slow because the food is freshly prepared, but it is well worth the wait.
Büyükparmakkapi Sokak 21-23, Beyoğlu
Tel: (0212) 252 8609.
Price: $
Saray Muhallebicileri
With several branches over the city, the most famous on Istiklal Caddesi, Saray is something of an institution and has been serving up delicious cakes and pastries since 1935. Although the interior is ornate and the waiters are clad in white jackets, this is a very down-to-earth and cheap restaurant-cafe, most famous for its cakes and traditional Turkish puddings, but which also sells kebabs, soups and savoury dishes. A good choice for breakfast or snacks, Saray, not surprisingly, is busy all hours.
Istiklal Caddesi 102, Beyoglu
Tel: (0212) 292 3434.
Price: $
Personal RecommendationsCep Sanat Galerisi
An adorable little cafe in a quiet part of Asmalimescit, set back off the road. A real hang-out for local old-time painters, in fact the venue is also part art gallery (the name means 'Little Pocket Gallery'). Ideal for a late breakfast of
menemen (a kind of sloppy Turkish omelette with tomatoes, served with crusty bread) and a pot of filter coffee. The sort of place where you can read a book and sit for hours without being disturbed.
Asmalimescit Sokak 41, Beyoglu
Tel: (0212) 292 0038.
Price: $
Hamdi Et Lokantasi
Although the food might not be a great surprise, the view is one of the finest of
any restaurant in town. With many floors, and very popular with tour groups, the place to dine is overlooking the Galata Bridge and Golden Horn, so phoning ahead to reserve a table on the open terrace is highly recommended. Prices are reasonable, service average, and there is a good selection of meze, kebabs, and the usual Turkish fare.
Kalçin Sokak 17, Tahmis Caddesi Eminönü
Tel: (0212) 528 0390.
Price: $$
Yeni YildizYeni Yildiz is a cosy
pide and
kebab restaurant located down a dark, cobbled street to the south of the main Sultanahmet sights. The clientele is a mixture of locals and tourists and the atmosphere is laid-back and restrained. With both indoor and outdoor seating this is convenient port-of-call after a busy day's sightseeing.
Cankurtaran Meydani 18, Cankurtaran
Tel: (0212) 518 1257.
Price: $/$$
Nightlife:Beyoğlu has been the site of drinking, dancing, theater, debauchery and other non-Muslim pastimes in Istanbul for centuries. In contrast, there are few decent nightlife haunts in tourist-dominated Sultanahmet. Although Beyoğlu developed a reputation for seediness in the 1980s, Istanbul's huge youth population and the spirit of liberalism has ensured the district's recovery, with the clip joints and strip clubs rolling back off Istiklal Caddesi to make room for more nightclubs, wine bars and jazz venues. Clubs and bars open, close and change name faster than you can say ‘Constantinople' but there is a growing trend for pricey, trendy rooftop bars especially around Beyoğlu and Ortaköy. Technically, the drinking age is 18 years but identity cards are rarely checked.
As in most cities, drinks prices vary hugely. The tavernas or
meyhanes are much cheaper than nightclubs or live music venues. Meyhanes tend to close at 2400, bars at 0100 or 0200, while clubs can stay open as late as 0600 at weekends. Visitors (especially lone men) are advised to avoid the seedier venues in the back alleys off Istiklal Caddesi and to be very cautious if a new acquaintance suggests a venue as this is often the opening gambit for what might end up becoming an expensive scam. Many strip shows or belly-dancing clubs operate a system whereby unsuspecting visitors will be expected to pick up a huge tab for women (usually prostitutes) who somehow end up at their table all night. For those seeking 24-hour
nargileh (waterpipe), tea and backgammon, the string of cafes on Amerikan Pasaj, Tophane, near the Nusretiye mosque is popular with students and locals.
Time Out Istanbul is an English-language monthly magazine with entertainment listings, features and reviews. The
Turkish Daily News, the English-language daily newspaper, also has entertainment and listings.
Bars: The center of nightlife is undoubtedly Beyoğlu, with a huge range of bars and clubs. Running off Istiklal Caddesi, the side-street Imam Adnan Sokak has several, like
Kaktüs, many with tables outside. For a fun Friday or Saturday night with a mixed crowd, the third-floor
Dogzstar Teras, Tosbağa Sokak 22, opens its roof in the summer and has live music and DJs. In the middle of Istiklal is ultra-cool rooftop terrace bar
360, on the top floor of Misir Apartment, overlooking the city. Lower down Istiklal is Nevizade Sokak, behind Çiçek Pasaj, a narrow boisterous street packed with bars, including the noisy, friendly
Aslanim and
Vera.
Pano Saraphanesi (Wine Bar) on Hamalbaşi Caddesi near Galatasaray Square is a Greek-style taverna also selling decent food, with good selection of house wines and cheap beer. Also nearby is the bar of the Hotel Büyük Londra, at Meşrutiyet Caddesi 117, with its eccentric, 19th-century retro atmosphere. Nearer Tünel, the narrow streets around Asmalimescit have countless little bars. Over in the village of Ortaköy, up the Bosphorus, there are a range of upmarket bars and cafes for fashionistas, like the waterfront
House Café on Salhane Sokak. Galata Bridge has several bars,
Dersaadet, on Galata Bridge, close to the Karaköy shore, being one of the liveliest with live local music some nights.
Clubs: Istanbul's clubs range between a tiny dancefloor in a Beyoğlu pub, to swish terraces overlooking the Bosphorus where revelers go to be seen. The two most famous in the latter group are both in Ortakoy:
Reina and
Sortie (both on Muallim Naci Caddesi) have been likened to an entertainment emporium, with several bars, dancefloors and restaurants, and packed with celebs, models and millionaires. A little smaller is the equally trendy
Anjelique, Muallim Naci Caddesi, Salhane Sokak 10, Ortakőy, spread over three floors and with a waterfront location; it is thronging in summer. Some plush clubs won't admit unaccompanied men.
Babylon,
Şehbender Sokak 3, off Asmalimescit (website:
www.babylon.com.tr/english), has international DJs playing decent house, techno and international sounds as well as live music most nights.
Karga, Kadife Sokak 16, Kadiköy (website:
www.kargabar.org), is a chilled bar with local house and techno DJs and visiting bands. At weekends, there are several bars around Asmalimescit which have dancing till late.
Live Music: Babylon, Şehbender Sokak 3, off Asmalimescit (website:
www.babylon.com.tr/english), puts on a wide range of international rock, world and latin artists as well as staging adventurous experimental and jazz concerts with local and international DJs and bands.
Re-Fresh the Venue, Yil Sanayi Sitesi 100 (website:
www.re-fresh.com.tr), and
Parkorman, Büyükdere Caddesi (website:
www.parkorman.com.tr), both in Maslak, are huge open-air venues for bands.
Roxy, Aslan Yataği Sokak 3, Siraselviler-Taksim (website:
www.roxy.com.tr), is a popular club, sometimes featuring foreign, Turkish and international pop and rock groups. The highly respected
Nardis Jazz Club, Kuledibi Sokak 14, Galata (website:
www.nardisjazz.com), has live musicians every night, ranging from classic, modern, fusion and ethnic jazz, and also serves food.
Istanbul Jazz Center, Salhane Sokak 10, Ortaköy (website:
www.istanbuljazz.com), on Çirağan Caddesi next to the SAS Radisson Hotel, has international jazz artists performing most nights.
Pozitif Promotions (website:
www.pozitif.info), which runs Babylon, puts on the Efes Pilsner One Love Festival in June,
the
Akbank Jazz Festival in October and the Efes Pilsen International Blues Festival in November and December.
For traditional music, check out bars and
meyhanes advertising
fasil, or classical romantic singing, especially around Beyoğlu.
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