Amsterdam has always had a vibrant and varied cultural scene but over the last few decades it has blossomed, thanks to a renewed interest in Dutch culture. First and foremost, Amsterdam is a musical city, offering a range of musical styles from street performers and carillons to the more highbrow midday and evening performances in the Concertgebouw (Concert Hall), Concertgebouwplein 2-6 (tel: (020) 671 8345, for reservations or 675 4411, for information; website:
www.concertgebouw.nl), which is noted for its superb acoustics.
On most summer evenings, it is possible for punters to attend an organ concert or a recital of Baroque chamber music in one of Amsterdam’s magnificent old churches, such as
Oude Kerk and
Nieuwe Kerk.
Amsterdam stages around 15,000 performances every year (roughly 40 a day), although there is a more concentrated cultural season lasting from September to the end of June. Shows do not cost a fortune and a relaxed dress code means that even the opera can be attended in fairly casual clothes.
Tickets to cultural events can be booked through
AUB, Leidseplein 26, open 0900-2100 (tel: (0900) 0191, for €0.40 per minute; website:
www.aub.nl). AUB only accepts payment by credit card. Online listings for cultural events are available online (website:
www.visitamsterdam.nl).
Music: The
Concertgebouw, Concertgebouwplein 2-6 (tel: (020) 671 8345, for reservations or 675 4411, for information; website:
www.concertgebouw.nl) is not only home to the world-famous
Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra (website:
www.concertgebouworkest.nl) conducted by Mariss Jansons but also plays host to visiting companies and international soloists. Free concerts take place in either the
Grote Zaal (Great Hall) or
Kleine Zaal (Recital Hall) of the Concertgebouw, on Wednesday 1230-1300.
The
Beurs de Berlage, Damrak 62a (tel: (020) 530 4141; fax: (020) 620 4701; website:
www.beursvanberlage.net), is an architecturally fascinating building, where the 140-member
Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra (website:
www.orkest.nl) is based. The
Netherlands Chamber Orchestra (website:
www.orkest.nl) and guest artists tend to perform in the building’s ’glass box’, the
Aga Zaal. The
Boekmanzaal is part of the
Muziektheater (Opera House), Amstel 3 (tel: (020) 551 8117; fax: (020) 551 8025; website:
www.muziektheater.nl), home of
Netherlands Opera (website:
www.dno.nl). It holds a free lunchtime concert at 1230-1300 on Tuesday (October to June), often performed by members of the
Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra, the Choir of the Netherlands Opera (website:
www.dno.nl) and the
Netherlands Ballet Orchestra (website: www.balletorkest.nl ).
Less formal concerts are performed by four of the city’s 17th-century carillons, on a weekly basis. Bell ringing takes place on Tuesday 1200-1300 at
Westertoren (Western Tower), Thursday at
Zuidertoren (Southern Tower) and Friday at
Munttoren. The bell ringer at
Oude Kerkstoren (Old Church Tower) gets to sleep in - concerts are Saturday 1600-1700.
Theater: Some international fringe theater companies perform in English and the
Stadsschouwburg (Municipal Theater), Leidseplein 26 (tel: (020) 624 2311; fax: (020) 623 8685; website:
www.stadsschouwburgamsterdam.nl), often stages English-language theater productions, as well as dance performances. Musicals and cabaret find a home in the
Koninklijk Theater Carré (Royal Carré Theater), Amstel 115-125 (tel: (020) 524 9452; fax: (020) 524 9444; website:
www.theatercarre.nl), situated on the River Amstel, and in the nearby
Kleine Komedie, Amstel 56-58 (tel: (020) 624 0534 (tickets)
or 626 5917 (information); e-mail:
algemeen@dekleinekomedie.nl; website:
www.dekleinekomedie.nl), a charming little theater dating back to 1788.
Dance: The
Dutch National Ballet (website:
www.het-nationale-ballet.nl) is considered one of the best and most versatile companies in Western Europe. Its many devotees flock to the
Muziektheater (Opera House) (see
Music above), a 1,600-seat coliseum overlooking the Amstel River, to see the great classical ballets as well as works by 20th-century dance innovators. The Muziektheater also plays host to the
Netherlands Dance Theater (website:
www.ndt.nl), Holland’s other world-class ballet company, as well as foreign companies. Situated on a curve of the Amstel, in the heart of the city, this cultural landmark is, despite its size, amazingly intimate. The venue is closed in July.
Film: The multi-screen
City, Kleine Gartmanplantsoen 13-25 (tel: (0900) 1458), on the Leidseplain, shows Hollywood blockbusters. But Amsterdam is also known for its arty cinemas, such as the art deco
Tuschinski, Reguliersbreestraat 26-28 (tel: (0900) 1458), which shows films from all over the world. Films are rarely dubbed into Dutch but are shown in the original language with subtitles.
Films shot in Amsterdam include Mike van Diem’s
Karakter (1997), Dick Maas’s
Amsterdamned (1987),
Diamonds are Forever (1971), and more recently,
Ocean’s Twelve (2005).
Cultural Events: Every 30 April, a huge street party and carnival marks
Queen’s Day and the city is awash with orange.
Floating Amsterdam occupies the last two weeks of May, when outdoor productions are staged on the River Amstel. Every June, the month-long
Holland Festival, featuring music, dance and drama, takes place. Tickets can be booked in advance through tourist offices, but some same-day sale tickets are always held at the Musiektheater box office. In August, concerts are performed on boats ringing the Prinsengracht canal. All summer long there are regular cultural events in Vondelpark.
Literary Notes: Ian McEwan won the 1998 Booker Prize for his
Amsterdam (1998), which is partly set in the city. The city also provided the inspiration for part of John Irving’s novel,
A Widow for One Year (1999), and Sidney Sheldon’s
If Tomorrow Comes (1986). Albert Camus wrote
La Chute (1970) while based here. More recently, Deborah Moggach’s
Tulip Fever (1998) depicted life in 16th-century Amsterdam. The city has played a prominent role in the works of Dutch authors - two well-known books that have been translated into English include
Blue Mondays (1994) by Arnon Grunberg and
Bitter Herbs (1957) by Marga Minco. The unique ambience of Amsterdam permeates the work of Nicolas Freeling, in his detective novel,
A Long Silence (1972). Perhaps the most famous work to come out of Amsterdam, however, is
The Diary of Anne Frank (1947). Marga Minco’s
Empty House (1986) might be less famous but it explores some of the same issues. A lighter work is Janwillem van de Wetering’s
Amsterdam Cops (2001), a collection of cop stories that are mainly set in the capital’s underworld. Geert Mak’s
Amsterdam: A Brief Life (2001) is ostensibly a guide to the city but its historical depth and highly personalised detail make it an interesting read for repeat visitors wanting to delve further under Amsterdam’s skin.
My ’Dam Life (2003), by Sean Condon, is a colorful, in turns humorous and dark, account of the Australian author’s experience of living in the city.
Sport:Football is the favorite sport in Amsterdam and the city is home to
Ajax (website:
www.ajax.nl), one of the top Dutch football teams, along with PSV Eindhoven and Feyenoord Rotterdam. Ajax is ranked among the top European clubs, thanks to their success over the years in major European competitions. The team plays at the spectacularly high-tech
Amsterdam Arena, Arena Boulevard 29 (tel: (020) 311 1444; fax: (020) 311 1480; website:
www.amsterdamarena.nl). If there are no matches being played, visitors can still look around the Arena’s
World of Ajax museum (tel: (020) 311 1333), which charts the history of the club, as well as take a tour of the stadium. Admission to the museum is €3.50. A valid passport is required to buy match tickets.
The Royal Dutch Football Association (KNVB) organizes the Dutch Football League, which is divided into the Eredivisie (major league) and Eerste Divisie (premier league).
A truly spectacular sight in Amsterdam in winter is a frozen canal – all the more so when the local people don their skates and claim the smart Keizergracht as their own ice rink.
Formula One racing fans might want to visit
Zandvoort, 5km (3 miles) west of Haarlem, where the Dutch Grand Prix used to be held, before it was cancelled due to safety reasons.
Tickets to sporting events are available for purchase direct from the football clubs and individual venues.
Fitness Centers: Club Sportif, Valkenburgerstraat 28 (tel: (020) 620 6631; fax: (020) 638 3531), offers aerobics, tennis and fitness facilities. It is open Monday to Friday 1000-2400 and Saturday and Sunday 1000-1800.
Fitness Aerobic Center Jansen, Rokin 109-111 (tel: (020) 626 9366), is open Monday to Friday 1000-2230 and Saturday and Sunday 1200-2000. The two new
Splash Healthclubs (website:
www.healthclubsplash.nl) are located at Lijnbaansgracht 243 (tel: (020) 422 0280) and Looiersgracht 26-30 (tel: (020) 624 8404).
Golf: Amstelborgh, Borchlandweg 6-12 (tel: (020) 563 3333; fax: (020) 697 1306; e-mail:
info@golfclubamstelborgh.nl; website:
www.golfclubamstelborgh.nl) is a nine-hole public course, where the green fees start at €10. It is located a 10-minute walk from Duivendrecht metro station.
Amsterdamse Golfclub, Bauduinlaan 35 (tel: (020) 497 7866; website:
www.amsterdamsegolfclub.nl) is an 18-hole course built in a reclaimed polder. Green fees are between €30 and €35 and membership is not required.
Tennis: Frans Otten Stadium, Stadionstraat 10 (tel: (020) 662 8767; fax: (020) 577 1145; website:
www.fransottenstadion.nl) has tennis courts. It is open Monday to Friday 0700-0100, Saturday and Sunday 1000-1800. Hire of a court costs from €15.
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