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We have selected 25 restaurants, which we have divided into five categories: Gourmet, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments.

Restaurant prices are subject to IVA (value added tax) at 10% but this is always included within the prices given. A 15% service charge is usually added to the bill at the end. It is customary to round up the bill and leave a tip (maximum 10%) as well, if the meal and service have been good.

The restaurants

have been divided into four different pricing categories:
$$$$ (over €100)
$$$ (€65 to €100)
$$ (€35 to €65)
$ (under €35)

The prices quoted below are for an average three-course meal for one person and for a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent. They include IVA but do not include service charge or tip.

Gourmet

Al Covo
Close to the Arsenal, this small restaurant, decorated with 1960s paintings and Murano lamps, specializes in historical fresh fish dishes of the lagoon. The goby fish (used for the soup or served with gnocchi) is excellent, as are the scallops with pasta, and the mouth-watering chocolate cake. Alternatively, diners can follow owner Cesare Benelli's recommendations on the catch of the day. The tranquil location, professional expertise and personal touch add to the appeal of the two dining rooms. Cash only.

Campiello della Pescaria, Castello 3968
Tel: (041) 522 3812.
Price: $$$
Fortuny Restaurant
Enjoying an intimate dinner with a loved one at the Cipriani's signature restaurant is the quintessential Venice experience and should not be missed by anyone who can afford to splash out. Feast on homemade black noodles served with scallops, clams and broccoli sauce, followed by a rack of lamb in a porcini mushroom and black truffle sauce, as the water from the lagoon laps against the quay and the lights of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Lido shimmer in the distance. A specialty is the Fortuny's first rate carpaccio, while the General Manager's favorite is the sea bass cooked in a salt crust. Lunchtime sees the Fortuny menu served by the swimming pool and an excellent value antipasti buffet from Friday to Sunday, which includes crab and lobster. Complimentary transportation on the hotel's private launch from Piazza San Marco simply adds to the glamour of it all.

Giudecca 10
Tel: (041) 520 7744.
Website: www.hotelcipriani.it
Price: $$$$
Harry's Bar
The American Bar, made famous by Hemingway, obliges most self-respecting travelers, particularly Americans, to pay at least one visit. The Bellini, a peach, prosecco and grenadine cocktail, was invented here and is always excellent. The ever-crowded restaurant offers just 14 tables, snugly nestling beneath the exposed wooden beams and antique lamps. The house specialty, John Dory with tomato and capers, is recommended. This is a good venue for celebrity spotting, although a celebrity wallet is needed for those looking to dine in style.

Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1323
Tel: (041) 528 5777.
Website: www.cipriani.com
Price: $$$$
Ristorante Cantina Canaletto
Tucked away in an inauspicious street not far from St Mark's Square, Ristorante Cantina Canaletto is a real treat and refreshingly free from the tourist hordes. Split into two distinctive areas, a serene dining room and a buzzing wine bar, the classically styled restaurant has beamed ceilings and an impressive array of wine bottles adorn the walls. Highlights of the menu include white polenta with lagoon shrimps, the best mortadella of Bologna made by Pasquai, grilled sea bass and grilled lobster. An excellent choice for seafood lovers is the starter platter, with eight seafood tasters. Perhaps surprisingly, the Cantina Canaletto also offers a small range of exquisite pizzas, with the Allegra (topped with cherry tomatoes, mozzarella, brie and rocket) being one of the tastiest pizzas served in Northern Italy.

Castello 5490
Tel: (041) 521 2661.
Website: www.cantinacanaletto.it
Price: $$$
Il Sole sulla Vecia Cavana
This restaurant, owned by Stefano Monti who has Il Sole restaurants in Miami, Paris, Rio de Janeiro and Monaco, is located just a few minutes walk from the Rialto. Il Sole sulla Vecia Cavana serves Venetian and Italian cuisines with a modern twist, using fresh ingredients and delicious Adriatic fish. Try appetizing starters like smoked swordfish, carpaccio with strawberry sauce or fresh pasta filled with sea bass, peanuts and pistachio. For mains, sample salmon fillet wrapped in potato crust, served with spinach and mustard sauce, or old Venetian favorites like grilled cuttlefish and polenta.

Rio Tera' SS Apostoli 4624
Tel: (041) 528 7106.
Website: www.veciacavana.it
Price: $$$$

Business

Ai Gondolieri
This mid-sized, elegant canalside restaurant near the Peggy Guggenheim Collection specializes in fine meat and vegetable dishes. Aberdeen Angus beef and ostrich share the menu with traditional Veneto platters, such as stewed chicken with polenta. Fresh Piemontese white truffles are also a highlight in the autumn, though check prices before ordering this extravagant delicacy. The cooking is much more creative that the décor, which is tinged with 1940s style, with wood panelling and overhead fans. The quiet locale, fine wines and good service appeal to small business groups and gourmets interested in the dishes of mainland Veneto. The restaurant only serves Italian wines, and stocks around 250 labels. Closed Tuesday.

San Vio, Dorsoduro 366
Tel: (041) 528 6396.
Website: www.aigondolieri.com
Price: $$$
La Terrazza Danieli
In summer, the rooftop restaurant at the luxury Hotel Danieli affords perhaps Venice's most famous view from the Riva degli Schiavoni over San Giorgio Maggiore and the lagoon. The tagliatelle with truffles, baked sea bass and tiramisu all come highly recommended, as does a sublime Adriatic seafood grill overflowing with quality white fish. The comprehensive menu manages the difficult trick of straddling traditional Venetian meat, fish and vegetable dishes and more international flavors. Their bar menu, served from 1500 to 1800, is a great way of sampling the experience without breaking the bank. Reservations are recommended throughout the season.

Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 4196
Tel: (041) 522 6480.
Website: www.luxurycollection.com/danieli
Price: $$$$
Locanda Cipriani
Long a favorite with English royalty and Hollywood stars, this escape on the island of Torcello has been famous since its ‘discovery' by Ernest Hemingway. The courteous service, excellent kitchen and ample space make it ideal for business lunches or dinners. The Gritti and Portico rooms overlook the garden, which boasts al fresco seating during the warmer months. The simple yet elegant restaurant is best enjoyed in June, when the beautiful rose garden blooms and the heavenly vegetable risotto oozes with flavor. Recently, some diners have complained of falling standards, although with the Locanda Cipriani, it has always been about paying for the location and the fame factor. Try the restaurant's signature dish of beef carpaccio and John Dory 'alla Carlina'. Reservations are essential and the restaurant is closed on Tuesday.

Piazza San Fosca 29, Isola di Torcello
Tel: (041) 730 150.
Website: www.locandacipriani.com
Price: $$$$
Ristorante al Teatro
In the San Marco area, next to the refurbished La Fenice, this pizzeria and restaurant offers five rooms and an outdoor terrace in summer. The Sala Caccia is the most characterful of the dining areas, with an oak beamed ceiling and simple décor with white tablecloths and white flowers. The civilised surroundings are ideal for large parties on restricted budgets, with a wide menu offering value for money. The scaloppine al Fenice (seared veal cutlets served with fresh seasonal vegetables) are recommended.

Campo San Fantin, San Marco 1916
Tel: (041) 522 1052.
Price: $$$
Ristorante Antico Pignolo
Hidden in the warren of allies behind St Mark's Square, Riccardo de Pietri's luxurious, roomy restaurant is ideal for large business parties and a favorite with Venetian society. The rose and pastel décor befits the distinctly regal fine dining atmosphere. Sommelier Pippo Sgarlata has the best-stocked wine cellar in Venice, designed to accompany premium Mediterranean dishes, such as prosciutto San Daniele, tagliolini with rock lobster and the vanilla and chocolate soufflé ‘Arlecchino'. Some recent reports suggest that the staff have an increasing tendency to be on the snooty side.

Calle degli Specchieri 451, San Marco
Tel: (041) 522 8123.
Price: $$$$

Trendy

Al Paradiso Perduto
This noisy and chic osteria, near the Ca'd'Oro, is a popular evening haunt for Venice's students and young professionals and is often open as late as 0200. Paradiso is legendary for its raucous nights and eclectic music and owners Paolo Ellero and Elisabetta Zane have given it a bit of a boost of late. Diners can watch live bands while tucking into the large dishes of tasty pasta and surveying Venice's young and beautiful late into the evening. The rest of the menu is best described as ‘fusion' with the likes of beef fillet with walnuts and plums or lamb chops with avocado and blueberry.

Fondamenta de la Misericordia, Cannaregio 2540
Tel: (041) 720 581.
Price: $$
Naranzaria
For buzz and location, Naranzaria is hard to beat. This fun and funky eatery is just a stone's throw from the Rialto, but is a step up both in atmosphere and quality from the area's touristy restaurants. With bright and buzzy staff and simply prepared ingredients, Naranzaria is as much a favorite with trendy Venetians as it is with savvy visitors. Options range from salted cod cooked in tomatoes, black olives and olive oil with clams, through to sushi and sashimi dishes. The wine list is equally creative and impressive. Be sure to book a table on the outside terrace with its sweeping views of the Grand Canal. Closed on Mondays.

Erbaria, San Polo 130
Tel: (041) 724 1035.
Website: www.naranzaria.it
Price: $$$
Aromi
Instantly amongst the hottest tables in town on opening at the start of summer 2007, the Aromi has far greater ambitions than most bland hotel restaurants. Take a ringside seat outside with views across to the Zattere and the cruise ship berths, and settle in for an upmarket Venetian treat. In the more than capable hands of young chef Franco Luise and bon vivant restaurant manager Lello Zerbini, the Aromi provides a palate satisfying and smooth service treat. Highlights on the menu include dishes laced with local spider crab, mantis shrimp and fresh vegetables from the Rialto Market. Creative touches include mussels and clams wrapped in sea bream with a saffron broth. The chocolate soufflé dessert is sublime.

Hilton Molino Stucky, Giudecca
Tel: (041) 523 0744.
Website: www.hilton.com/venice
Price: $$$
Orange
If you don't like the color orange then stay well away from this unmistakable bar/restaurant. Orange abounds everywhere and if you can stomach it the food is good with the likes of a hefty club sandwich, a variety of grilled meat dishes, and a good choice of seafood. Enjoying a prime position on trendy Campo Santa Margherita, Orange also boasts a small garden area and a posing terrace that peers out over the action. This somewhat schizophrenic place works for many tastes, whether you are looking for some oysters and a glass of champagne or something to nibble on while you take in a big football match.

Campo Santa Margherita, Dorsoduro 3054/A
Tel: (041) 523 4740.
Website: www.orangebar.it
Price: $$
Osteria alla Botte
This small and traditional hideaway rewards those who manage to find it with a variety of affordable wines sold by the glass, carafe or bottle. The mixed tapas cichete mista offered in the bar includes tasty Venetian staples, such as sarde in soar (marinated sardines) whilst the simple cuisine served in the small back dining room is both hearty and delicious. The lasagne al forno and pasta and fagioli bean soup are highly recommended. Trying a little Italian, no matter how bad, will speed up ordering, which is done on a 'loudest shout first' system when the bar area is busy. Always buzzing at nights and a fun place to see and be seen.

Campo San Bartolomeo, San Marco 5482
Tel: (041) 520 9775.
Website: www.osteriaallabotte.it
Price: $

Budget

Al Giardinetto da Severino
Conveniently located for Piazza San Marco and the Rialto, this friendly and intimate restaurant is popular with local gondoliers and has been run by the same family for half a century. Housed in the 15th-century chapel of the Zorzi family, Al Giardinetto boasts vaulted ceilings and a frescoed fireplace. The restaurant offers dining in the vineyard courtyard during summer and is excellent value for money. Venetian staples dominate the menu, such as calves' liver with fried onions. Simple and tasty fish dishes, such as Venetian-style cuttlefish with polenta, are also a good bet.

Ruga Giuffa, Castello 4928
Tel: (041) 528 5332.
Website: www.algiardinetto.it
Price: $
Aqua Pazza
Located on an attractive square, this Mediterranean restaurant plays host to a buzzing mix of locals and tourists. The fish specialties such as a starter of peppered mussels or the fish risotto for two are delicious, as are the main dishes. For the more budget conscious, the restaurant's pizzas are good value, and the delicious thick crust frutti di mare comes topped with clams, squid, mussels and prawns. Diners are treated to a complimentary glass of meloncello or limoncello (both sweet fruit flavored digestifs) to help them wash down a truly enjoyable meal. In summer there are chic white molded plastic chairs outside on the square.

Campo San Angelo, San Marco 3808/10
Tel: (041) 277 0688.
Price: $$
Brek
This self-service canteen-style chain restaurant located near the train station offers a variety of simple pizza and pasta dishes along with mixed salads, fresh fruit and sweet desserts. The pasta dishes are usually cooked to order in front of you. This healthier and more satisfying alternative to greasy burgers and stale sandwiches also sells alcoholic beverages at reasonable prices.

Lista di Spagna, Canneregio 124
Tel: (041) 244 0158.
Price: $
Da Renato
This is povera cucina (poor man's food) at its best. Renato, the chef and owner, offers a bargain alternative to the gourmet Da Fiore around the corner. His pasta and bean soup is part of an old Venetian tradition, kept on the stove all day to provide an all-in-one meal (piatto unico) for weary gondoliers. The restaurant is highly regarded for its food rather than its interior, which is basic, although inoffensive.

Rio Terà Secondo, San Polo 2245/A
Tel: (041) 524 1922.
Price: $$
Trattoria alla Madonna
Near the Rialto Bridge, this large bustling trattoria is good value and a favorite with locals and visitors alike. In the daytime, the long tables laid out across the terracotta floor are a great informal place to tuck into a bowl of pasta with fagioli beans. In the evening, the more serious dining gets under way, with seafood specialties such as black squid with polenta and lobster on the menu. The restaurant also offers good meat choices.

Calle della Madonna, San Polo 594
Tel: (041) 522 3824.
Website: www.ristoranteallamadonna.com
Price: $$

Personal Recommendations

Al Ristorante Cip's Club
Cip's Club has an ingredient that is the envy of many Venetian restaurateurs - a stunning view back across the lagoon to St Mark's Square. A more informal alternative to the Cipriani Hotel's signature restaurant, Cip's Club is styled as a pizzeria, grill and dolci bar, serving regional Italian fare, such as pizzas and pasta, as well as afternoon tea, pastries and ice cream. The fish pasta starters such as clams with spaghetti and cherry tomatoes are excellent. Along with the more relaxed atmosphere come slightly more affordable prices. To make the most of the dining experience offered by Cip's Club, visitors should choose a mild day, sink into a chair on the floating pontoon and enjoy the unrivalled views. A highlight of a meal here is the free launch over the lagoon from San Marco.

Giudecca 10
Tel: (041) 520 7744.
Website: www.hotelcipriani.it
Price: $$$$
Caffe Quadri
Like a Merchant Ivory film set, Caffe Quadri serves up a big helping of Venetian history, combining as it does a view over St Mark's Square with palatial furnishings. The refined cuisine draws the crowds, making reservations imperative and pushing up the prices. The saddle of rabbit with ham and shallots glazed in balsamic vinegar is fantastic and the ravioli with veal and white truffle sauce is a must for those who want to splash out - a unique experience worth every penny. Closed on Mondays from November to March.

Piazza San Marco 120, San Marco
Tel: (041) 522 2105.
Website: www.quadrivenice.com
Price: $$$$
Il Canova
One of Venice's grandest dining rooms seats 75, but it often feels like you are the only people there with deeply personal service in this candlelit retreat. The menu, under the guidance of young chef Roberto Conighi, concentrates on fresh Venetian specialties with an emphasis on seafood, though the Aberdeen Angus beef Chateaubriand hits the spot for carnivores. The stand-out starter is a light lobster salad with cannelloni beans, which leaves plenty of room for mains like scallops and king prawn kebabs or anglerfish medallions with capers, Ligurian olives and fresh tomatoes. The tiramisu at Il Canova is no mere slice, instead beautifully presented in three sections and accompanied by baicoli biscuits. A glass of prosecco to start, a bottle of excellent Veneto wine and a grappa to wash it all down completes one of the Divine Republic's most sensational dining experiences.

San Marco, 1243
Tel: (041) 528 9840.
Website: www.baglionihotels.com
Price: $$$$
Harry's Dolci
There is no better place to watch the famous sunset over Venice's skyline than from the open-air terrace of Harry's Dolci, located on the island of Giudecca. The highlight of this luxurious and elegant restaurant is the romantic terrace that overlooks the Giudecca Canal. It is also the place to indulge on calorific sweetmeats in the city that first imported sugar to Europe. Famous for its zabaglione (a Marsala-flavored mousse) and rich pastries, this Cipriani outlet offers both snacks and full meals. Also great on a summer's day, is sitting outside under the festooned awnings.

Giudecca 773
Tel: (041) 522 4844.
Website: www.cipriani.com
Price: $$$$
Osteria Enoteca San Marco
This classy osteria, located a stone's throw from Piazza San Marco, is a step up in both quality and décor from many of the tourist-orientated eateries in the area. It was a revelation on opening a few years back and is still going strong. Noodles with lobster and tender venison are amongst the appetizing dishes on offer in the relaxed and rustic setting. The extensive wine list is also excellent. For some, the fact that you cannot get bar service during restaurant hours may grate slightly since it breaks with the tradition of the osteria. Closed Sundays.

Frezzeria, San Marco 1610
Tel: (041) 528 5242.
Price: $$$

Nightlife:

Visitors expecting debauchery and nefarious nights in the licentious ’City of Revel’, which Venice was once dubbed, are often disappointed. With so few young people able to afford to live in the city and most places set up for tourists, the city’s nightlife lacks real soul. In short, visitors to Venice will be hard-pushed to find entertainment beyond their plate of cuttlefish risotto. Most of the action takes place in the early evening, when Venetians take their daily stroll or passeggiata along the Riva degli Schiavioni or to their neighborhood campo. Sometimes they stop off for an aperitif - preferably a glass of chilled prosecco, the local white wine that fizzes on the tongue.

For a quick tipple, the swankiest venues are concentrated around St Mark’s Square, where you can spend your euros with decadent abandon. Other more bohemian areas are in the back streets of Cannaregio and San Polo, where you can swill a beaker of local wine alongside fishermen and students. Punters have to be over 18 to drink and most pubs close at either 2400 or 0100, although some places stay open later, especially those attached to hotels.

Due to problems with noise pollution, Venetian nightclubs are virtually non-existent and those that do exist operate a well-honed entry system that favors short-skirted women. More places open on the Lido, in the summer, when you can rub shoulder pads with Hollywood’s glitziest. However, for the rest of the year, the best of the city’s bright lights are the lanterns on the boats twinkling in the lagoon.

For information and listings, A Guest in Venice (website: www.aguestinvenice.com) is published fortnightly in summer and monthly during the winter season and is available from good hotels.

Bars: Harry’s Bar, Calle Vallaresso, on the western edge of St Mark’s Square, is the home of the legendary Bellini - a cocktail of prosecco, fresh peach juice and a dash of grenadine, although this institution is not for the financially faint hearted. No introduction to Venice (or prosecco) is complete without one. The bar is owned by the Cipriani family and has played host to Hollywood’s most rich and glamorous. The two grand old dames, Florian and Quadri, on St Mark’s Square may seem exorbitant for a coffee, but a bottle of wine with nibbles is reasonable when when it comes with live classical music and a stunning panorama of one of the world’s most famous squares.

A bar with a great Grand Canal view is at the Hotel Monaco, Calle Vallaresso, San Marco. Take a seat on the terrace and watch the vaporetti trundling by and tourists being herded on to gondolas. If you want to nip to the adjoining terrace restaurant make sure you’re not wearing shorts.

Campo Santa Margherita was once the only haunt of Venice’s young and beautiful, with its smattering of trendy cafes and bars and slightly grungy ambience. Margaret Duchamp is one of the liveliest options on the Campo, with outside tables, a trendy interior and a decent pint of Guinness, while Imagina Caffe, is a favorite of the artsy crowd.

In recent years the freeing up of bar licenses in the Rialto Market area has made it the new unlikely hub of Venetian hipsters, just a stone’s throw away from the tourist-thronged historic bridge. Bars to look out for include Al Merca, Campo Cesare Battisti gia Bella Vienna, where spritz is the drink of choice and Muro Vino e Cucina, a bar/restaurant in keeping with the pan-European trend for minimalism. Osteria alla Postali, Fondamenta Rio Marin 821, run by a Venetian ex-pilot, is also a great place to lounge next to a cosy canal, sipping a Campari bitter and watching the gondolas drift by.

Clubs: Since these are few and far between in Venice, most young people head for Mestre, where there is more space and less noise restriction, or further afield to the student town of Padua. But if you are stuck in Venice and you want to dance the night away, the best option is Disco Club Piccolo Mondo, Calle Contarini-Corfu, Dorsoduro, where house music is enjoyed by a mixed clientele. Or try the Casanova Disco Club, Lista di Spagna, Cannaregio, a popular Venetian hotspot for rubbing groins with Latin smoothies, very near Venice’s railway station. Expect to pay a cover charge, which includes a free drink. Internet facilities are also available at Casanova.

Live Music: Venues for live music in the city are scarce. Two of the best known are the late opening (until 0300) Bacaro Jazz, Salizada del Fontego dei Tedeschi, San Marco (website: www.bacarojazz.com), for hot jazz and a cool clientele, and Paradiso Perduto, Fondamenta Misericordia, Cannaregio, a late-night joint that is popular with students and tourists alike. The wonderfully named Pizzeria 900 Jazz Club, Campiello del Sansoni, San Polo (website: www.jazz900.com), is a nightmare to find but well worth the effort for the quality Italian and international live jazz.

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