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The restaurants below have been grouped into five categories: Gourmet, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. They are divided into four different pricing categories:$$$$ (over €90)
$$$ (€60 to €90)
$$ (€30 to €60)
$ (under €30)
The prices quoted above are for an average three-course meal for one and for a bottle of house wine or equivalent; they include IVA but do not include service charge or tip. IVA (value-added tax) at 10% is included in restaurant prices. A 15% service charge is very occasionally added to the bill, more common is a

bread and cover charge called pane e coperto (usually €1-2 per person and officially illegal). Romans are not very generous with tips but an additional 10% on top of the bill (providing you have not been charged for service of course) if the meal and service have been good is very much appreciated.

Gourmet

Checchino dal 1887
The birthplace of Roman cooking, in the heart of Testaccio, Checchino has remained in the Mariani family for five generations. Classics, such as coda alla vaccinara (braised oxtail) and abbacchio alla cacciatora (braised suckling lamb), were invented here. Still on the menu today, they have been adapted to create lighter dishes for the modern palate. Reservations are recommended - it is packed throughout the week, normally with locals. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Via di Monte Testaccio 30
Tel: (06) 574 3816.
Website: www.checchino-dal-1887.com
Price: $$$

Il Convivio Troiani
Run by three brothers, Il Convivio is one of the city’s foremost temples to food and innovation. An equal emphasis is placed on vegetable, fish and meat options, and some of the dishes stem from classic Roman fare, but the basic ingredients are always combined with something unexpected according to the whim of youngest brother and chef Angelo, and turned into something sublime. Three elegant rooms, two with murals on the walls, and well-trained wait staff make for a truly rounded gourmet experience. Dinner only, closed Sunday.

Vicolo dei Soldati 31
Tel: (06) 686 9432.
Website: www.ilconviviotroiani.com
Price: $$$$

Hostaria dell’Orso
Milanese superstar chef Gualtiero Marchesi is at the helm of the Hostaria dell’Orso located in a medieval palazzo which was an inn for centuries and experienced its headiest days in the 1960s. Now a posh restaurant (but also piano bar and disco), it offers a skilled take on Italian haute cuisine such as l’agnellino da latte arrosto, fave croccanti e tortino di melanzane (roasted baby lamb with crunchy broad beans and aubergine cake) and spiedino di gamberi, bastoncini di polenta di ceci e salsa alle olive (prawn brochette with chickpea polenta sticks and olive sauce). Dishes can be ordered à la carte or from different menù degustazione (set-price menus). No lunch. Closed Sunday.

Via dei Soldati 25C
Tel: (06) 6830 1192.
Website: www.hdo.it
Price: $$$$

La Pergola
Sublime food and breathtaking views put this roof garden restaurant among Italy’s ‘Top 20’. The chef, Heinz Beck, shapes the menu according to seasonal produce and personal inspiration - recent successes include ravioli al finocchio con alici (ravioli with fennel and anchovy) and agnello ai carciofi in crosta di pane con consommé di agnello e spuma di pecorino (lamb with artichokes in a bread crust served with lamb consommé and pecorino mousse). There are separate menus for wines, water, teas, herbal teas and coffees. The cellar stocks some of the best (and most expensive) wines in the world. Dinner only, closed Sunday and Monday.

Cavalieri Hilton Hotel, Via A Cadlolo 101
Tel: (06) 3509 2152.
Website: www.cavalieri-hilton.it
Price: $$$$

La Rosetta
Regarded as Rome’s top fish restaurant, La Rosetta lies in a quiet side street close to the Pantheon. Upon entering the wood-panelled room, with its wooden furniture and red upholstery, customers receive a complimentary glass of champagne. One might begin with antipasto misto (a selection of cold seafood delicacies), followed by strozzapreti con calamaretti (pasta with baby squid), to be rounded off with scorfano e verdure grigliate (grilled sea scorpion and spinach). The wines are truly classy. Overall very expensive so if you want to experience seriously well-selected fish and well-executed fish cuisine, go at lunchtime when there are some affordable menus. Closed Sunday.

Via della Rosetta 8
Tel: (06) 686 1002.
Website: www.larosetta.com
Price: $$$$

Business

Dal Bolognese
Popular with politicians, artists and businesspeople, this restaurant has a smart summer terrace overlooking Piazza del Popolo, and a classic winter dining room decorated with contemporary paintings. The menu features high-quality mainly meat-oriented dishes from Bologna, notably beef fillets, mortadella, sausage pasta and bollito misto (mixed boiled meats). Vegetarians need not worry however, as the excellent tortelloni con ricotta e spinaci (pasta filled with spinach and ricotta) prove that the kitchen can turn out tasty meat-free dishes too. For dessert, divine sorbets from the southern region of Campania are served in scooped-out fruit. Closed Monday.

Piazza del Popolo 1
Tel: (06) 3611426.
Price: $$$

Dal Toscano
The Bruni family has run this friendly trattoria for three generations. Close to the Vatican, Dal Toscano is known for traditional cooking and speedy service. The interior is simple (vaulted ceilings and plain wooden furniture) and in summer there is a leafy terrace. Both Tuscan and Roman specialties, such as funghi porcini arrosto (roast porcini mushrooms) and abbacchio scottadito (grilled suckling lamb), are on offer. The Chianti, a robust red, is first-rate. Closed Monday.

Via Germanico 58-60
Tel: (06) 3972 5717.
Website: www.ristorantedaltoscano.it
Price: $$

Enoteca Capranica
Housed within a 15th-century renaissance palazzo close to the Parliament, this elegant restaurant retains old-fashioned charm, with wood-panelled walls and chintzy covered chairs. Ideal for business lunches, there is a small room reserved for private meetings. The menu features refined Mediterranean dishes, such as crema di astice e finocchi con pepperoncino (lobster and fennel cream soup with hot red pepper), and pesce spada con olive nere, capperi e pomodorini (swordfish with black olives, capers and cherry tomatoes). On a recent visit the classic crème brulée dessert was made very interesting with some authentic vanilla flavoring and mango ice-cream as an accompaniment. Closed Sunday, no lunch Saturday.

Piazza Capranica 99
Tel: (06) 6994 0992.
Website: www.enotecacapranica.it
Price: $$$

La Tana de Noantri
This is a very popular venue which, despite being situated in the heart of the most touristy part of Trastevere (behind Piazza Santa Maria), has kept up a very high standard of solid Roman cuisine since it opened in 1965. All the dishes use only the very freshest of ingredients, especially the many fish main courses. Another of their specialties are tagliolini alla tana, thin egg tagliatelle made with tomatoes, mushrooms and fresh oregano. Outdoor seating is available in summer. Closed Tuesday.

Via della Paglia 1-3
Tel: (06) 580 6404.
Price: $$

Taverna degli Amici
Very much frequented by politicians and celebrities from the Roman or Italian arts scene, this restaurant nevertheless boasts unpretentious and discreet staff, a tasteful rustic interior and a romantic candlelit exterior in one of the most atmospheric piazzas in Rome. The menu changes daily but the staple is fish. Desserts are homemade and creative (cinnamon mousse and an exquisite crème caramel are just two examples). An added bonus is that this is one of the few spots in central Rome where, for some reason, diners will not be pestered to buy roses or have their picture taken. Closed Monday.

Piazza Margana 37
Tel: (06) 6992 0637.
Price: $$

Trendy

Coco
A very varied menu that features the additional bonus (or not, according to your viewpoint) of calorie and cholesterol counts for each dish. The setting is trendy but also quite rustic and cosy with small alcoves and chunky wooden tables. Choose from pizza, salads, meat and fish dishes, all of them good. The desserts are memorable, especially the hot chocolate cake. Lunch and dinner daily.

Piazza delle Coppelle 54
Tel: (06) 6813 6545.
Website: www.cocorestaurant.it
Price: $-$$

Glass Hostaria
Excellent and good-value taster menus, home-made bread, and creative dishes such as tagliolini al nero di seppia con capesante, zucchine e pomodorini (black squid ink pasta with scallops, courgettes and small tomatoes) and tortelli verdi di trota e ortica con pomodoro fresco (trout and nettle tortelli served with fresh tomato) make this new restaurant in Trastevere a memorable dining experience. Service is friendly and the decor is sleek and modern. Open dinner only, closed Monday.

Vicolo del Cinque 58
Tel: (06) 5833 5903.
Website: www.glass-hostaria.it
Price: $$

Gusto
This split-level, open-plan restaurant, pizzeria, wine bar and osteria (round the back, entrance Via della Frezza 16) is something of a designer showpiece - exposed brickwork, wooden floors, marble-top tables and industrial-style lighting. The emphasis is on Mediterranean cuisine, primarily meat and fish prepared with aromatic herbs and spices. Weekend brunch sees a menu based on eggs, quiches, muffins and salads, yogurt, cereal and freshly-squeezed orange juice. Live jazz takes place in the wine bar and there is also an extremely well-stocked shop selling kitchenware and cookery books.
Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9
Tel: (06) 322 6273.
Website: www.gusto.it
Price: $$-$$$

Ketumbar
Ketumbar (Malay for coriander) is a chic nightspot in Testaccio. Fusion cuisine fits the bill, with dishes such as sushi and nasi goreng (rice, egg and greens prepared in a wok) as well as plenty of Mediterranean dishes with a nouvelle twist. The sleek, minimalist interior (featured in various style magazines) is tastefully decorated with Indonesian and Vietnamese furniture, while in one room potsherds (pieces of broken Roman amphorae that make up Monte Testaccio hill) are subtly lit behind a glass wall. There’s a bar serving cocktails and a resident DJ who plays a seductive mix of nu-lounge, electrojazz and Latin sounds. No lunch. Closed August.

Via Galvani 24
Tel: (06) 5730 5338.
Price: $$

Obikà
The first (and so far only) mozzarella bar in Rome pays homage to the delicious cheese delivered daily from the neighboring Campania region and also the incredibly rich burrata variety from Puglia. Customers can eat it sushi-style at counters or in a variety of dishes in the minimal Japanese-style restaurant section. There are delicious one-off dishes and salads too, scrumptious home-made desserts and an affordable lunch-time menu. In warmer months visitors can eat outdoors. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Via dei Prefetti 26A, Piazza di Firenze
Tel: (06) 683 2630.
Website: www.obika.it
Price: $-$$

Budget

Augusto
A meal at Augusto’s, possibly the last genuine Trastevere osteria, is an experience in itself. On busy winter evenings, the dining room is packed and steamy, while in summer, rickety wooden tables spill out onto a pretty cobbled piazza. The menu is limited and runs out early: favorites include pollo arrosto con patate (roast chicken and potatoes), abbacchio al forno (lamb done in the oven) and trippa (tripe) on Saturdays; desserts are homemade. Tables are covered with throw-away paper cloths where waitresses scribble down orders and tot up bills. Closed Saturday evening and Sunday. No credit cards.

Piazza de’ Renzi 15
Tel: (06) 580 3798.
Price: $

Cul de Sac
Visit the oldest wine bar in Rome for a lingering meal at lunchtime or dinner. The space might be cosy (the restaurant is long, narrow and always packed) but the convivial atmosphere and modest prices are alluring and memorable. The food offerings rarely disappoint and include fish and meat main courses from Italy and abroad, cheese-plates, home-made pâtés, cold meats, Middle-Eastern influenced side-dishes such as babaghannush, hearty onion and red lentil soups and the freshest Greek salad in town. Choose from almost 40 wines available by the glass and 1,400 bottles listed in a wine list of biblical proportions. On summer evenings, several candlelit tables are placed outdoors in a pleasant piazza. Open daily until late.

Piazza Pasquino 73
Tel: (06) 6880 1094.
Price: $-$$

Formula 1
As the heart of the student quarter, San Lorenzo is traditionally famous for its cheap and cheerful pizzerie and a growing number of more sophisticated and hip wine bars and eateries. The exceedingly relaxed and slightly chaotic Formula 1 is one of those basic no-frills pizza places that have been serving up some of the best (and one of the widest ranges) in Rome for over 20 years, using real mozzarella (and not the factory kind so favored nowadays). The typically Roman fried baccalà (salted cod) and vegetables, and the crunchy and fresh bruschette starters are also excellent. No lunch. Closed Sunday. No credit cards.

Via degli Equi 13
Tel: (06) 445 3866.
Price: $

Gino
A no-frills, down-to-earth and cheerful trattoria, with a surprisingly affordable (and tasty) menu for this most well-heeled area of the city a stone’s throw from the Parliament and Piazza di Spagna. Gino serves up hearty portions of spaghetti alla carbonara, spezzatino di vitello o manzo (beef or veal stew), and some reliably good fish dishes. The classic sweets - tiramisù, crostate (fruit tarts), crème caramel are all home-made. Closed Sunday and August. No credit cards.

Vicolo Rosini 4
Tel: (06) 687 3434.
Price: $$

Naturist Club L’Isola
Don’t be put off by its name, but tucked away on the fourth floor of this palazzo between Via del Corso and Piazza di Spagna is this historic Rome macrobiotic restaurant. At lunchtime it operates as a self-service vegetarian restaurant, at night you can eat à la carte organic food (including fish dishes) served by staff. The atmosphere is more intimate and you can accompany your meal with organic wine. Closed Saturday at lunch and all day Sunday.

Via della Vite 14 (Fourth floor)
Tel: (06) 679 2509.
Price: $

Panattoni
The perfect Roman pizza: delicate and thin, with a crispy crust. Popularly known as the obitorio (morgue), because of its marble-topped tables and cold interior, Panattoni brims with life in the evenings and has a huge outdoor space in the warmer months. Try the fried cod fillets, the bruschette and any of the pizzas. Service is fast and brusque but friendly. Very reasonably priced. To avoid the crowds, it is best to arrive either very early (before 2000) or very late (after 2400). No lunch. Closed Wednesday. No credit cards.

Viale Trastevere 53-57
Tel: (06) 580 0919.
Price: $

Personal Recommendations

Ditirambo
Just off the ever-popular and ever-bustling Campo de’ Fiori, this intimate restaurant is a gem of reliable Italian regional cuisine (many dishes are also vegetarian but not boring) and good humor in a decidedly touristy area. The interior is warm and inviting, the bread and pasta are homemade, as are the sweets (on a recent trip, the semifreddo with hazelnut zabaione cream and cocoa beans and chocolate mille-feuille were memorable indeed). No lunch Monday.

Piazza della Cancelleria 74-75
Tel: (06) 687 1626.
Website: www.ristoranteditirambo.it
Price: $$

L’Arcangelo
The prints on the amber walls and linen tablecloths form an unexpected and genteel yet simple backdrop to some highly imaginative culinary offerings and an understated gourmet experience in Rome’s residential Prati neighborhood, not far from the Vatican. Famed chef Fulvio Pierangelini has an innovative approach to even the simplest dishes. Start with plates of cured meats, salads of tender octopus with spelt and citrus, and baccalà (salted cod) with plump raisins and porcini mushrooms. Classic Roman primi (first courses) such as pasta with amatriciana and cacio e pepe sauces are perfectly executed; among the secondi (main courses) the lamb cacciatore on a bed of roast potatoes with a pecorino cheese and caper sauce is a standout. There’s a fairly-priced taster menu of Roman cuisine too. Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday.

Via Giuseppe Gioacchino Belli 59-61
Tel: (06) 321 0992.
Price: $$$

Palatium - Enoteca Regionale
This wine bar and restaurant is a genuine foodie experience near the Spanish Steps. Opened about two years ago by the region of Lazio to promote local foods and wines, the setting is chic and modern but the creations by chef Antonello Colonna are based on traditional regional classics such as broccoli rabe with sausage, fried baccalà (cod) and anchovies and cannellini bean soup. A tasty selection of seasonal Lazio vegetables, cheeses, olive oils and cured meats are on offer too. Occasional tastings and courses are also held here. Open lunch and dinner daily.

Via Frattina 94
Tel: (06) 6920 2132.
Price: $$

Uno e Bino
A welcoming and informal bistro-style atmosphere in Rome’s student district of San Lorenzo offering a low-key gourmet experience. As a starter, the friendly and efficient staff bring you a little vegetable strudel on the house while you choose from an extensive, original and interesting wine and food list, which stands out for its relative affordability. A typical three-course meal might include ravioli-style pasta filled with fava beans and served with leak fondue, followed by totani squids steamed in a clam guazzetto (sauce) and topped off with a chocolate pyramid dessert served with an intriguing but delectable caramel, banana and peanut ice cream. There are three menù degustazione (taster menus) available. Closed Monday evening.

Via degli Equi 58
Tel: (06) 446 0702.
Price: $$-$$$

Nightlife:

Rome may not be the hippest of capitals, but for those who know the right places, it is possible to party all night. Romans go out late and the fun only really commences after dinner. The wine-bars and cafes lying between Campo de’ Fiori, Piazza Navona and Via della Pace are the places to be seen. Irish pubs are also popular with Italians and expats, and can be a good place for a fun and informal night out. The biggest concentration of nightclubs lie in the Testaccio and Ostiense districts. One of the main drags in Testaccio, Via di Monte Testaccio, is literally lined with bars, pubs, live music venues and clubs. In Ostiense the scene has taken off in recent years and this is where to find some of the hippest new bars and so-called ristodisco, places where you can both eat and dance. The gay scene is alive and kicking and accounts for many of the more avant-garde night spots. The weekly Roma C’è (out on Wednesdays) and TrovaRoma (out on Thursday free with the La Repubblica newspaper) publications, and the online 2night (website: www.2night.it) have good and reliable information on nightlife in Rome.

The legal drinking age in Italy is 16 and the absence of licensing laws means that drinking is possible at all hours. Most wine-bars and birrerie stay open until 2400 in winter and 0200 in summer. However, in general, people are more interested in seeing and being seen - alcohol is almost an afterthought.

Romans tend to dress more casually than their counterparts in Milan and Florence, although most women do their best to look stunning for a night out.

Bars: The Vineria, right in the middle of Campo de’ Fiori, is still very ’in’ and makes a perfect rendez-vous for an early evening drink. Customers range from well-known actors to local winos, although lately the atmosphere has become a little more ’wannabe’. Otherwise, Il Nolano at number 11 is as good for people-watching and always less packed. Just a few doors down at number 20 is the Drunken Ship, good for those in search of English-speaking expats and tourists. Equally popular but rather more refined is Antico Caffè della Pace, Via della Pace 5, close to Piazza Navona. The cosy interior is adorned with antiques, while the ivy-clad facade looks onto a notoriously popular summer terrace. For an after-dinner digestivo and good-value people-watching look no further than Freni & Frizioni, Via del Politeama 4-6, a bar housed in a former car workshop (hence the name - Brakes and Clutches) in Trastevere. In fine weather it spills out into a square near the Lungotevere filled with burning candles. For something a bit more chilled-out and artsy, head to Societe Lutece, Piazza Montevecchio 17, near Piazza Navona.

Clubs: House music remains a firm favorite here, although a number of smaller and more alternative clubs play rock and revival. In summer, many clubs close, giving way to the countless outdoor venues that spring up around town and beside the sea near Ostia. The rich and famous hang out at Gilda, Via Mario dei Fiori 97 (website: www.gildabar.it), close to Piazza di Spagna. Disco music dominates the dance floor, there’s a piano bar reserved for private parties and a well-run restaurant. In summer the establishment moves out to Fregene, on the coast, for Gilda on the Beach, Via Lungomare di Ponente 11 (website: www.gildaonthebeach.it). Alien, Via Velletri 13-19 (website: www.aliendisco.it), is brash and bold, with sexy dancers paid to gyrate to house, commercial and revival. In Testaccio, Alibi, Via Monte Testaccio 40, is frequented by ’gays and their friends’ and plays predominantly house music with occasional live concerts. Close by, Fake, Via Monte Testaccio 64, is a temple to electronic and hip hop sounds in a décor that combines Roman brick walls and brash pop-art motifs. Some of Europe’s best DJs play at Goa, Via Libetta 13, close to Mercati Generali in the post-industrial landscape of the up-and-coming Ostiense area. House, jungle and techno music predominate amid a sophisticated ethnic and industrial setting of wood combined with wrought iron. At 3 Via Libetta, another staunch Ostiense favorite is Classico Village (website: www.classico.it); which offers two dance floors and a restaurant in a former factory, as well as some very good Italian pop, rock and jazz concerts. Just a few steps away is the glam 1930s-themed Distillerie Clandestine post-industrial trendy Ostiense-Testaccio triangle for expertly mixed cocktails at Via Libetta 7 (tel: (06) 5730 5102; website: www.distillerieclandestine.com)
Consult weekly publication Roma C’è (available at any newsagent) for details of what’s on.

Live Music: Jazz lovers should head for Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, near the Vatican (website: www.alexanderplatz.it) because when the big names come to town, they often come here. Big Mama, Vicolo di San Francesco a Ripa 18 (website: www.bigmama.it), is notoriously cramped but pulls some good up-and-coming musicians, plus a few big names. Nearby in Testacccio, Caruso-Cafè de Oriente, Via Monte Testaccio 36, hosts performances from local and visiting Caribbean, Cuban and Brazilian musicians, while the Villaggio Globale, Lungotevere Testaccio 22 (tel: (06) 575 7233), offers a nice line in alternative and world music. Likewise, Fonclea, Via Crescenzio 82A (website: www.fonclea.it), in the Prati area (close to the Vatican), stages jazz and rhythm and blues concerts. There’s a late-night restaurant and the bar serves excellent cocktails and a wide selection of whiskeys. For more new or rarefied jazz sounds and ethnic music, try the La Palma, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35 (a short bus ride from the Tiburtina metro stop) (website: www.lapalmaclub.it). Top-notch live jazz, pop and soul can also be heard at various outdoor venues during the summer, such as Villa Celimontana and the La Palma jazz club. The city now also has its very own Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55 (website: www.casajazz.it), which is garnering a reputation for itself. Come here for jazz-related concerts and talks followed by brunch or a meal at the restaurant.

For something totally different, visit the Centri Sociali (see Culture below) that are often located a little out of the center. One that is well known as a live music hotspot is Brancaleone, Via Levanna 11 (website: www.brancaleone.it), where a decisively alternative and dressed-down crowd attends concerts, films, art exhibitions and club nights. Likewise, Circolo degli Artisti, Via Casilina Vecchia 42 (website: www.circoloartisti.it) offers an eclectic mix of rap, reggae, cyber punk and grunge. More central is the Villaggio Globale in the old abattoir (ex-Mattatoio) in the heart of Testaccio’s clubbing district.

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