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The Parisian ideal is elegant rather than funky. Trends come and go but Paris is always at the forefront and there are few cities where you can find so many top-quality designers. These include some British designers - John Galliano at Dior, Julian McDonald at Givenchy and McDonald's predecessor, Alexander McQueen, as well as that ever-controversial Frenchman, Jean-Paul Gaultier, with his own store near Bastille. The exclusive designer shops are in the 8th, enclosed in the golden triangle formed by avenue des Champs-Elysées, avenue Montaigne and rue François 1er and along rue du Faubourg St-Honoré.

A less rarefied but typically Parisian shopping experience is to be had at the main department stores situated on boulevard Haussmann, 8th. These include Les Galeries, with its huge colored dome, and Au Printemps. Métro Temple or Republique take the bargain shopper to the cheapest department store in the city - Tati, 172 rue du Temple, 3rd. Cut-price designer gear can be snapped up at the Mouton à Cinq Pattes, 8 rue St-Placide, 6th. The sales sweep through Paris in January and July.

Those who enjoy intimate, friendly boutiques should head for the Marais 4th arrondissement. Rue des Francs-Bourgeois in the gay quarter sells designer kitsch, while the winding rue des Rosiers, in the Jewish quarter, has plenty of young designers whose works are displayed at L'Eclaireur. This area is at its busiest on Sunday, with many shops closed on Saturday due to the Jewish sabbath. It is ideal for a quick falafel snack, while the best ice cream is for sale at Berthillon, 31 rue de St-Louis-en-L'Ile, 4th.

The Carrousel du Louvre, under the glass pyramid in the Louvre courtyard, is a good place for shoppers to find tasteful gifts but those determined to take home plastic Eiffel Towers should head for rue de Rivoli, home to tourist kitsch. The American-run Shakespeare & Co, 37 rue de la Bûcherie, 5th, has the city's widest selection of second-hand books in English. French books are best purchased at the city's FNAC stores, one of which is at the shopping arcade, the Forum des Halles, 1st. Bouquinistes sell second-hand books, as well as prints, postcards and gifts, along the River Seine.

Expensive antiques are to be found at Le Louvre des Antiquaires, beside the Louvre on place du Palais Royal. For bric-a-brac, there are the renowned marchés aux puces (flea markets), including the Porte de Montreuil, 20th, which is open on Saturday, Sunday and Monday 0900-1800, and St-Ouen/Porte de Clignancourt, 18th, open Friday 0600-1400, Saturday 0830-1730, Sunday 1030-1800 and Monday 1030-1700. There are numerous morning food markets in Paris, while the Ile-de-la-Cité has one of the largest flower markets in Paris.

Many an eyebrow was raised a few years back when a number of homeless people were evicted from the remaining section of the old Bastille-Vincennes elevated railway and local artists were coaxed in. The end result today is the Viaduc des Arts, Avenue Daumesnil, a unique and atmospheric shopping venue where genuinely different designer creations flourish in a scene that is a world away from the hegemony of the malls and shopping centers. Some of the most interesting outlets include Malhia Kent at 19, who weaves for the likes of Gucci and Dior, Yamakodo at 65, with its range of fun and funky modern furniture and Astier de Villatte at 107, who are renowned for their innovative pottery.

Most shops are open Monday to Saturday 0900/1000-1900/2000 and close between about 1200 and 1430 for lunch. Sales tax ranges from 5.21-16.38%, varying widely between what are regarded as essential items and luxury goods. Non-EU visitors can obtain a tax deduction of 12-13% on purchases of over €175 in any one day, by obtaining a form at the relevant shop and presenting it to customs on departure. Global Refund (tel: (01) 4161 5151; www.globalrefund.com) can provide further information and advice.

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