The selected restaurants have been divided into five categories: Gourmet, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments.
Most restaurants include tax and a 12-15% service charge in their prices. If service is good, guests will often leave an extra €2 tip or the small change from their bill, if they pay in cash. If service is not included, it is customary to leave a 12-15% tip.
The following hotels have been
grouped into four price categories:
$$$$ (over €125)
$$$ (€75 to €125)
$$ (€40 to €75)
$ (under €40)
These prices are for an average three-course meal for one person and for a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent; they include tax and service charge.
GourmetL'AmbroisieThe atmosphere in place des Vosges (one of the most beautiful and intimate squares in Paris) exudes into the ultra chic L'Ambroisie, which is situated in a genuine
hôtel particulier (private hotel). Classic French cuisine is served to pure perfection in these refined interiors decorated with rich tapestries. The menu changes according to the best fresh produce available and prices are steep. Diners can expect such delights as sea bass with olive oil emulsion, chanterelle and boletus mushrooms, and millefeuille with crystallised rhubarb. Wines are likewise expensive but the range is exceptional. Closed Sunday and Monday.
9 place des Vosges, 4th
Tel: (01) 4278 5145.
Website:
www.ambroisie-placedesvosges.com Price: $$$$
L'ArpègeAlain Passard has drawn on his family history to produce a restaurant renowned for superb, seasonal cuisine. His grandmother's portrait hangs on the otherwise minimalist walls and it is her cooking and
joie de vivre that is the source of Alain Passard's inspiration. The restaurant is named in honor of his musical parents and to set the tone for the harmony of flavors. Passard's menu places emphasis on fresh vegetables, fish and white meat. Dishes include lobster carpaccio with olive oil and caviar, fragrant stuffed tomatoes or strawberries scented with hibiscus petals. The only grumble is that the restaurant can be a touch on the cramped side so be careful what table you get. Closed Saturday and Sunday.
84 rue de Varenne, 7th
Tel: (01) 4705 0906.
Website:
www.alain-passard.com Price: $$$$
Pierre Gagnaire This sumptuous award-winning restaurant has the reputation of being among the most exciting gastronomic addresses in Paris and it is certainly one of the most fashionable. Formerly based in St-Etienne, near the gastronomic capital Lyon, Gagnaire brought flavors of that region to Paris in his imaginative menus, which hold dear both tradition and innovation. A simple but refined décor, with spotless white tablecloths, makes the perfect setting for his challenging but impeccable cuisine. Specialties include
suprême de poularde macérée au lait d'amande (chicken supreme cooked in almond milk) and
pesto de roquette sauvage (wild rocket pesto). Look out for the ‘grand dessert' - an indulgent dessert orgy that includes pistachio ice cream and an explosion of chocolate. Closed Saturday.
6 rue Balzac, 8th
Tel: (01) 5836 1250.
Website:
www.pierregagnaire.com Price: $$
Restaurant Plaza AthénéeAlain Ducasse was awarded three Michelin stars within eight months of first opening his Paris restaurant in 1996, at 59 avenue Raymond Poincare, 16th, where he took over from star chef Joel Robuchon after moving to the capital from Monte Carlo. In 2000, Ducasse moved the restaurant to a chic new venue in the 8th, opening the Restaurant Plaza Athénée - a sumptuously stylish venue with soaring ceilings, warm tones and splendid chandeliers. Dishes include creations such as
langoustine avec une crème citronnée (langoustine in a lemon cream sauce). As with Ducasse's other restaurants in Monaco and New York advance booking is strongly recommended. Closed Saturday and Sunday.
Hotel Plaza Athénée, 25 avenue Montaigne, 8th
Tel: (01) 5367 6500.
Website:
www.alain-ducasse.com Price: $$$$
SenderensDitching his once coveted three Michelin stars was a brave move for Alain Senderens, but that, and cutting prices, has made his restaurant more popular than ever. Situated in a grand fin de siècle-setting in chic place de la Madeleine it lies amid a wealth of posh shops. Senderens believes that each dish deserves a wine of its own to perfect the flavors and even allows Scottish whisky to sneak on to the menu as the perfect accompaniment for his smoked salmon. Other dishes include pan-fried chicken with cep risotto, roast duck with honey and spices, roast lamb with aubergines or pan-fried lobster served with polenta. No lunch Saturday and Monday. Closed all day Sunday.
9 place de la Madeleine, 8th
Tel: (01) 4265 2290.
Website:
www.lucascarton.com Price: $$$
BusinessBistrot de l'EtoileSome Parisian brasseries have become a little old fashioned and bistros are now all the rage for filling up late at night. Meals, such as duck foie gras with rocket salad, are served until 2330/2400, well after traditional restaurants have closed. Other highlights on the menu include langoustine ravioli with red peppers and a divine crème brulée. The atmosphere here is best described as
chic decontracté (smart but relaxed) with a light and airy feel to the main dining room.
75 avenue Niel, 17th
Tel: (01) 4227 8844.
Website:
www.bistrotetoile.com Price: $$$
BofingerFrédéric Bofinger first set up a restaurant on this Bastille location in 1864. This convivial art nouveau brasserie exudes the unique atmosphere of Paris, as the business community forgets about the office for an hour or two, while tucking into classics such as steak tartare, salade
mixte
or shellfish. The highlight for real seafood lovers is Le Prestige - a gargantuan seafood feast that features lobster, crab, langoustines, a dozen oysters, mussels and sea snails amongst other fresh delights. Another specialty is the sauerkraut dishes. There is a real buzz here that is so sadly lacking in many of the rival brasseries and booking ahead is advised. The two- and three-course menus are excellent value.
5-7 rue de la Bastille, 4th
Tel: (01) 4272 8782.
Website:
www.bofingerparis.comPrice: $$
Le Carré des FeuillantsOne of the least understood chefs in Paris (perhaps because he avoids snobbery at any cost) Alain Dutournier brought his love of meat and fine fresh ingredients from the Basque country. The wooden interior of Le Carré des Feuillants
is cosy but stylish with Murano glass chandeliers and contemporary artwork, though it is not by any means as lavish as many of the city's finest restaurants. Specialties include roast guinea fowl in a wild mushroom sauce or roast lobster with garlic and pepper nougatine, but this is really the place to enjoy a steak to remember. Fixed priced menus can be of varying quality, so it is best to stick to a la carte.
14 rue de Castiglionne, 1st
Tel: (01) 4286 8282.
Website:
www.carredesfeuillants.fr Price: $$$$
Chez Justine
If entertaining a ‘new media' client, or just needing a venue out of the staid ordinary for a client low on formality, then buzzy Chez Justine fits the bill. In raffish Menilmontant this fun and funky cafe opposite the legendary
Café Charbon serves up some of the best value lunches in Paris. Where else can diners enjoy a starter of bone marrow and toast, a rack of veal and dessert for this price; they even throw in a cup of coffee afterwards. The only danger in this genuinely bohemian haunt is that savvy clients may want to stay all day and start on the similarly good value wines and cocktails.
96 Rue Oberkampf, 11th
Tel: (01) 4357 4403.
Price: $-$$
TrendyLa ChinoiserieThis elegant retreat amongst the bustle of central Paris has the feel of a Prohibition-era Speakeasy, but the food is far more impressively up-to-date under the expert guidance of Franck Paget. Starters include the likes of scallop sashimi or crab mousse, followed by perfectly cooked duck or cod laced with fennel. Style is married with substance with dishes that look sensational and taste sensational too. Complete the experience with a champagne cocktail and Asian fusion tapas beforehand in their hip Café M bar before a Lagavulin by the fire.
24 Boulevard Malesherbes
Tel: (01) 5527 1234.
Price: $$$
GeorgesGeorges, decorated in a style that matches the modern Center Georges Pompidou, is the latest creation from the trend-setting Costes brothers. The restaurant's location on the sixth floor of the Pompidou Center draws huge crowds, who come for the superb views across the city. A chic but trendy clientele dine here, while students often come to take a coffee break before diving back into their studies at the Pompidou library. The menu, which includes both French and international cuisine, changes frequently, although the duck, the lobster risotto and the chocolate tart are firm house favorites. Closed Tuesday.
Center Georges Pompidou, 6th floor, rue Rabuteau, 4th
Tel: (01) 4478 4799.
Price: $$$
Pur GrillFine dining in one of Europe's best restaurants and the city's current place to be and be seen. Ease past the impressive wines on display in the entrance and settle into a stylish, but not overly fussy, dining space and open kitchen that serve as the perfect amphitheater for the culinary drama about to unfold. Head chef Jean-Francois Rouquette won the Pur Grill a well-deserved Michelin star in 2008 and others surely will follow. Starters recreate the langoustine by serving it sashimi style while on the main course top notch Wagyu beef comes thinly sliced in a reduction bursting with flavor. Savvy diners opt for the tasting menu that opens up Rouquette's full range of creativity and his expansive range of flavors. The wine list is equally impressive with the Saint Aubin Premier Cru en Remilly 2006 a shining star.
5 Rue de la Paix
Tel: (01) 5871 1234.
Price: $$$$
Spoon, Food & WineStar chef Alain Ducasse forsakes classic French food for an Asian-inspired international cuisine where anything goes but it is all blended beautifully together. Expect copious portions and a trendy crowd. Guests can take a quick bite to eat from Japanese-style bento boxes at the bar, or indulge in a leisurely meal in the main area. Dishes in this minimalist-style restaurant include tofu and noodles or spiced chicken in coconut milk. The wine list is extensive, with a particularly wide choice of Californian wines. Closed weekends.
14 rue Marignan, 8th
Tel: (01) 4076 3444.
Website:
www.spoon.tm.fr Price: $$
BudgetLa BoulangerieJust opposite the legendary
Lou Pascalou pub in trendy Menilmontant is this excellent neighborhood restaurant. Fresh ingredients and all the usual suspects are on a menu that also manages a bit of flair, pretty impressive given the bargain basement prices. Set lunches are of two or three courses. Half the fun is having a drink across the road afterwards and hanging out with the local cool crowd who are starting to turn their backs on busy rue de Oberkampf.
15 Rue des Panoyaux
Tel: (01) 4358 4545.
Price: $
La Bourse ou la VieThe art of top-notch steak frites has been dying in Paris in recent years under the deluge of ‘healthy' snack bars. This, though, is a carnivore's paradise, a red meat oasis that defies current fashion to serve up no nonsense food with an equally no nonsense owner on hand to scare the living daylights out of diners. The sumptuous chips are fried in animal fat and the creamy pepper sauce is sublime in a restaurant that effortlessly evokes the sultry Paris of old.
12 Rue Vivienne, 2nd
Tel: (01) 4260 0883.
Price: $
Café MedRight at the heart of touristy Paris sits this little budget gem. Getting a table in the tiny one room restaurant may not be easy, but it is worth the wait. Savour a starter, main and dessert crêpe for a low, set price. The food may not win any Michelin stars, but it is honest and fairly substantial, and the relaxed dining space is somewhere to linger a little in.
77 rue St Louis en L'Ile, 4th
Price: $
Galerie 88This little Moroccan restaurant, frequented by a young arty crowd, is just a step away from Notre-Dame, overlooking the quayside. The thick, split-pea soup is delicious - equally good is bread with cumin and the wide range of wholesome salads. Meals are served until 2400 daily.
88 quai de l'Hotel de Ville, 4th
Tel: (01) 4272 1758.
Price: $
La Grande Mosquée de ParisThis beautiful mosque, close to the Jardin des Plantes and Natural History Museum, is an exotic setting for a spicy North African couscous or
grillades (spicy meat stew) with
frites (chips), followed by a tiny glass cup of refreshing mint tea, accompanied by sweet pastries, packed full with honey and pistachios.
39 rue Geoffroy St-Hilaire, 5th
Tel: (01) 4535 9733.
Website:
www.mosquee-de-paris.org Price: $
Le GrappillonRight in the heart of Paris is a real bargain that does not sacrifice quality when it comes to budget eating. The set dinner menu of two or three courses is a steal for food of this standard in this location. Starters include the likes of tangy Bourgogne snails or foie gras followed by sliced roast duck or a chunky fillet of beef. This is the sort of great little unpretentious French restaurant that most people wish they had where they live.
32 rue Tiquetonne, 2nd
Tel: (01) 4028 9604.
Price: $$
Personal RecommendationsLa CoupoleThis elegant brasserie originally served the market traders at Les Halles before it was moved to the suburbs. The restaurant continues to offer hearty traditional fare, among them oysters, French onion soup with a cheesy crust, steaks and a choice of pork offal dishes such as the hallmark dish (grilled pigs' trotters) all washed down with robust house wine from the owner's own vineyard. La Coupole is strong on seafood too with the oysters particularly good. And there is an added bonus: it is open 24 hours a day.
102 boulevard du Montparnasse, 14th
Tel: (01) 4320 1420.
Website:
www.lacoupoleparis.com Price: $$
L'Espadon Ritz ParisParis is a city of excess and to do it in a style the likes of Hemingway would have approved of, then head to the Ritz. Enjoy the world's most expensive cocktail in the Hemingway Bar, before moving on to the reassuringly expensive restaurant. With legend Michel Roth at the helm things cannot really go wrong. Start with the likes of the Cesar Ritz lobster bisque laced with pistachio before moving on to truffled sole or perhaps the lamb flambéed in cognac. Desserts and one of the city's best cheeseboards follow in an experience that has to be rounded off with a room at, where else, the Ritz. For mere mortals there is an excellent value four-course lunch. Look out also for what claims to be the world's first exclusively vegetarian gourmet degustation menu.
15 place Vendôme, 1st
Tel: (01) 4316 3070.
Website:
www.ritzparis.com Price: $$$$
Le GymnaseLe Gymnase offers a complete night out for the price of a bottle of wine in some Parisian restaurants. Here diners are warmly welcomed in off the busy street and enter a world of decent food and jazz. Neither is world class, but that is not the point as the regulars who hang near the bar and the lucky tourists who stumble across it will attest to. The music is free and the chunky and perfectly cooked
cōte de boeuf for two is a steal. Wines come by the glass or bottle and the generous crème brulées make a perfect climax to the night as the band finishes up.
44 boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, 2nd
Tel: (01) 4236 4645.
Price: $$
Le Jules VerneThis temple of fine food has really stepped up a notch now that über chef Alain Ducasse has breezed in to take over. The setting could not be more spectacular as the restaurant is housed within the Tour Eiffel, with sweeping views of the city. This is a homecoming of sorts for Ducasse with a contender for the city's best restaurant now residing in its most iconic structure. Reservations only accepted online. This is serious fine dining with a serious price tag to match, with the moneyed crowd enjoying Brittany lobster and truffled foie gras, not to mention some vertigo inducing expensive wines.
Tour Eiffel
Tel: (01) 4555 6144
Website:
www.lejulesverne-paris.com Price: $$$$
Les PhilosophesThis restaurant in the Marais is justifiably very popular, so booking ahead is recommended. In summer there are tables outside and a cosy interior awaits in the colder months. The outdoor tables are the perfect place to sit and watch the hectic Marais street life. Menus are creative with lots of set and a la carte options. The most famous starter is the tomato tart, a delicate and flavorsome concoction, while the steaks on the main menu are chunky and expertly cooked. Leave room for desserts too with a smattering of French classics such as crème brulée and tarte tatin in generous portions.
28 rue Vielle du Temple, 4th
Tel: (01) 4887 4964.
Price: $$
Le Train BleuThis grand old dame is one of the most atmospheric places to eat in the city. It is a brasserie that just oozes class, with seamless service and quality cuisine. It has the added bonus of looking onto the tracks of Gare du Lyon to one flank and out across the city on the other. Romanticised scenes of the Mediterranean destinations that the station used to serve adorn the walls and ceiling in an eatery that feels more like a palace than a brasserie with its lavish gilt and stucco work. The steak tartare is first rate and the three-course lunch is a steal with the likes of Lyon sausage to start, roast duck with raspberries to follow and the dessert of the day to end. The price also includes half a bottle of wine.
Gare de Lyon, 12th
Tel: (01) 4343 0906.
Website:
www.le-train-bleu.com Price: $$$
Nightlife:The temptation to make a beeline for the Champs-Elysées
and Trocadéro
should be avoided unless visitors want to end up crammed alongside fellow tourists in overpriced bars with large egos but little atmosphere. The livelier action moved on long ago to the likes of bustling Bastille, which may have been deserted by the real local cognoscenti, but still boasts plenty of colorful small bars, popular clubs and unique little drinking dens. These days, though, even the Bastille can be a bit too mainstream for some and a bit wildly drunken at weekends.
Anyone wanting to really mix it with the style crowd and have an 'authentic' Parisian night out should break east to raffish Ménilmontant, which boasts a sophisticated and eclectic nightlife scene that was kicked off by the legendary
Café Charbon on rue de Oberkampf, a street now overflowing with bars. The smart money is on Belleville
being the next new 'in' place, though the scene in this rough-around-the-edges part of town is far less obvious and it is just that bit further from the center.
Back in the heart of the city, the Marais
has managed an impressive renaissance of late and now offers plenty of bars, chic cafes and a perhaps surprisingly active gay and lesbian scene. Pigalle
is the seedy sex center of Paris but home to some good music venues and the
Moulin Rouge cabaret, 82 boulevard Clichy, 18th, where the cancan is still performed. The success of more recent cabaret contender
Bobino, Rue de la Gaite 14-20, is sign that Paris is still a city capable of reinventing its own clichés.
The minimum legal age for drinking alcohol (beer and wine) is 16 years of age, rising to 18 years for stronger drinks and spirits. Bars are usually licensed until 0100 but this does vary according to the individual venue and area. Bouncers frequently turn potential punters away and many of the smarter clubs are (or claim to be) private. Clubs open at around 2300 and tend not to close until dawn; it is coolest to arrive around 0300, or at least after midnight.
Bars: The lines between cafes and bars in Paris are very blurred, with cafes where you can settle in with a beer and a croissant for breakfast and bars where you can enjoy a late night sandwich along with your cocktail. The craze for Irish and British pubs has to some extent run its course with the new focus on more funky and interesting bars. With the exception of Anglo/Irish bars, beers on tap (
bière à la pression) are normally served as a
demi (25cl).
The once trendy
Buddha Bar, 8 bis rue Boissy d'Anglas, 8th, has lost much of its shine, with the bars in Ménilmontant now the place to see and be seen.
Café Charbon, 109 rue Oberkampf, 11th, the bar that kicked off the rejuvenation of the area is still going strong and has stayed at the head of the game by adding a club venue, while
Le Mecano Bar, 99 rue Oberkampf, 11th, so called because of its toolbox décor, is one of most popular bars in the area with a grungy feel. Nearby
Lou Pascalou, 14 rue des Panoyaux, 20th, is a relaxed place to hang out. The scene in Ménilmontant is constantly evolving so visitors are advised to just wander around rue de Oberkampf and explore its side streets for the latest 'in' bar as the cool crowd increasingly move away from the bright lights and tourists on the main drag. If the main drag is not hip enough, hop on to Jean Pierre Timbaud where
Cannibale, No. 93, awaits or Rue St Maur, where
Nouveau Nez, No. 112, is a cool option.
The Marais (3rd and 4th) is packed with a happy mélange of gay and straight bars. Vibrant gay bars include the
Coffee Shop, 3 rue Ste-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, and
Amnesia, 42 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 4th.
Le Central, 33 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 4th, is one of the city's oldest gay bars, with a more sedate clientele. Paris' sole gay-only hotel is situated above the cafe. There are also a number of quirky little straight bars in and around rue Vieille-du-Temple, including
La Chaise au Plafond, 10 rue du Trésor, 4th, with its ceiling decorated with Frisian cows and a lovely terrace,
Au Petit Fer à Cheval, 30 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 4th, named after its huge horseshoe-shaped bar, and
L'Etoile Manquante, 30 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 4th.
For genuine Scottish beer, whisky and televised sports in a relaxed Marais setting the
Auld Alliance, 80 rue Francois Miron, 2nd, is the place to head. Anglophone expats will also find safety in numbers at the
Café Oz, 184 rue St-Jacques, 5th, which serves a good range of draught and bottled beers, or the
Frog & Rosbif, 116 rue St-Denis, 2nd, a traditional British pub. There is also a branch of the Frog & Rosbif, 25 cour St-Emillion, out in up-and-coming Bercy.
Clubs: Techno, house, garage and Latino are the popular sounds of Paris and, to a lesser extent, hip hop and drum and bass. Top DJs play house tunes at
Queen, 102 avenue des Champs-Elysées (
www.queen.fr), 8th, a gay club that is still considered one of the best clubs in Paris despite the influx of tourists. Thursday and Saturday is gay only, with drag queens in profusion.
Le Saint, 7 rue St-Séverin, 5th (
www.lesaintdisco.com), which plays disco, house and salsa, is inexpensive and relaxed.
Les Bains Douches, 7 rue du Bourg-l'Abbé, 3rd (
www.lesbainsdouches.net), a former Turkish bathhouse transformed into the most pretentious of clubs, is enjoying renewed popularity.
Batofar, 11 quai Francois-Mauriac, 13th, (
www.batofar.org) is a fun little club housed in a boat on the Seine that boasts a wide range of musical styles. In Ménilmontant
Nouveau Casino, 109 rue Oberkampf (
www.nouveaucasino.net) is the place to hit the dancefloor.
Live Music: Live jazz is played by local and international high-calibre musicians at
Le Bilboquet, 13 rue St-Benoît, 6th, nightly (from around 2200 onwards). A young, unsophisticated crowd is drawn to
La Flèche d'Or, 102 bis rue de Bagnolet, 20th (
www.flechedor.fr), a converted station turned live-music venue, with a sticky, beer-stained floor on the edge of trendy Ménilmontant. Concerts run from Thursday to Sunday evenings and the music ranges from rock to blues or reggae and satirical French
chansons.
Chesterfield Café, 124 rue La Boétie, 8th, situated just off avenue des Champs-Elysées, is popular with expats and hosts US rock and blues bands. To guarantee a seat, it is wise to book a table.
Major rock concerts take place at the
Palais des Congrès, 2 place de la Porte-Maillot, 17th (
www.palaisdescongres-paris.com). The
Opus Jazz and Blues Restaurant, 167 quai Valmy, 10th, in the upcoming Canal de Saint Martin area, offers good food and an eclectic selection of music, from aspiring Parisian youths through to more established acts.
The Columbus World Travel Guide has been published for 26 years and is sold in over 90 countries worldwide.
Related Paris Content
Word Travels is a comprehensive travel guide covering hundreds of cities and holiday resorts in more than 125 countries.
Related France Content
The Columbus World Travel Guide has been published for 26 years and is sold in over 90 countries worldwide.
Word Travels is a comprehensive travel guide covering hundreds of cities and holiday resorts in more than 125 countries.
France Airport Guides:
|
France City Guides:
|
| France Attraction Guides: |
|
|
|
|
