There is no shortage of good restaurants in Marseille. From traditional Provençal to more exotic cuisine, everyone will find something to their liking in the Phocean city. Local specialties include the world-famous
bouillabaisse (fish stew) of course, but also
pieds et paquets,
ratatouille,
soupe au pistou,
bourride,
aioli and so on. It is worth noting that many restaurants are closed on Sundays, and sometimes in August too. Call beforehand to avoid disappointment.
The restaurants below have been grouped
into four pricing categories:
$$$$ (over €50)
$$$ (€25 to €50)
$$ (€10 to €25)
$ (under €10)
These prices are for an average three-course meal for one and for a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent; they do not include VAT or service charge, unless stated otherwise.
Gourmet L’Epuisette An idyllic setting at the entrance to the Vallon des Auffes, affording fantastic views of the Big Blue and the islands (especially beautiful at sunset), is only one of the draws at this upmarket restaurant. First and foremost,
L’Epuisette, with chef Guillaume Sourrieu at the helm, has established a reputation for excellence in the kitchen, and the seafood and fish dishes here are some of the best in the city. Add to this impeccable service, and you most definitely are onto a winner.
Vallon des Auffes, 7e
Tel: (04) 9152 1782.
Website:
www.l-epuisette.com Price: $$$$
La Ferme La Ferme (The Farm) is one of the best restaurants in Marseille. Chef Raymond Borso combines uncommon flavors to create some unique, sometimes intriguing, but always delicious dishes with a strong Provençal accent. His boldness is rewarded by the loyalty diners show by returning again and again. The cosy setting is perfect for a romantic evening. Reservations recommended.
23 rue Sainte, 1e
Tel: (04) 9133 2112. Website:
www.laferme-marseille.com Price: $$$ -$$$$
Le Miramar This is simply one of the best culinary experiences to have in Marseille. Since the mid-1960s, aficionados of bouillabaisse have been flocking to
Le Miramar for a taste of the flavorful fish soup, Marseille’s world famous culinary specialty. Believe it or not,
bouillabaisse (a good one never comes cheap, because of the sheer number of fish needed to make it) was once a rough-and-tumble recipe devised by fishermen as a way of using the least desirable portion of their catch. This is the place to try it.
12 quai du Port, 2e
Tel: (04) 9191 1040.
Website:
www.bouillabaisse.comPrice: $$$$
Le Petit Nice The restaurant in the hotel of the same name on the Corniche was established in 1917. Since then, three generations of chefs have ensured its well deserved reputation as one of the city’s best tables.
Le Petit Nice boasts two Michelin-stars, and this is reflected in the prices. However, a beautiful location with breathtaking views over the bay, professional service and delicious, sophisticated local cuisine combine to make this venue perfect for a special occasion.
Anse de Maldormé, corniche J F Kennedy, 7e
Tel: (04) 9159 2592.
Website:
www.petitnice-passedat.com Price: $$$$
Business Chez Fonfon Nestled in the Vallon des Auffes, a picturesque small
calanque (creek) tucked away underneath the Corniche, is a legendary restaurant in Marseille. The area is still home to fishermen and their families, so of course the focus of
Chez Fonfon is very much on seafood dishes. One of the best places in town to try the famous
bouillabaisse.
140 rue Vallon des Auffes, 7e
Tel: (04) 9152 1438.
Website:
www.chez-fonfon.comPrice: $$$-$$$$
Les Arcenaulx Located in grand surroundings in Louis XIV’s arsenal, this restaurant, owned by local publisher Lafitte, is part of a complex that also houses two bookshops. The restaurant specializes in traditional local dishes such as
pieds et paquets and
daube. Several reception rooms are also available. Closed on Sunday.
25 cours Estienne d’Orves, 1e
Tel: (04) 9159 8030.
Website:
www.les-arcenaulx.com Price: $$$-$$$$
Restaurant La Mer Ideal for a business meal, with great views of the sea right outside the restaurant,
La Mer serves typical Provençal cuisine, with special emphasis on fish and seafood, in modern surroundings.
138 avenue Pierre Mendès-France, 8e
Tel: (04) 9176 0404.
Website:
www.restaurant-la-mer.com Price: $$$
Trendy L’Indigo Café
Right by the sea at the ‘happening’ Escale Borély, this trendy restaurant (one can sit outside in summer) offers Tex Mex fare in authentic looking surroundings. Choose between fajitas, tacos, chili con carne, quesadillas, and even a Mexican pizza, and wash the lot down with a good selection of Mexican beers (what else?) and wines from Latin America.
148 avenue Pierre Mendès-France, 8e
Tel: (04) 9171 2192.
Website:
www.sportsbeachcafe.fr Price: $$-$$$
Kim Do Spotless tiny Japanese restaurant tucked away behind the Palais Longchamp. Friendly service, as-fesh-as-it-gets food and intimate atmosphere. The sushi, sashimi and other offerings from the Land of the Rising Sun are all excellent, and as there is an open plan kitchen, so you can watch the chef rolling your sushi before eating them. The small size and big popularity of this restaurant mean that bookings are essential.
4 rue Capazza, 4e
Tel: (04) 9134 0008.
Price: $$
Le Shambhala For something different and more peaceful, try
Le Shambala, a very zen (and truly unique) retreat just round the corner from the cours Julien, in the lively La Plaine district. Here one can choose from hundreds of teas from around the world in a ‘Moroccan themed’ room (rugs, bean bags, low coffee tables, and no shoes... you could be forgiven for thinking you have just stepped into Ali Baba’s cavern). The home made pastries are delicious, and there are even board games for the restless. No smoking throughout.
The restaurant next door is more expensive and less atmospheric.
40 rue des 3 frères Barthélémy, 6e
Tel: (04) 9147 6803.
Price: $-$$
Budget La Kahena A well established Tunisian restaurant near the Vieux Port,
La Kahena packs the punters in every night, despite severe local competition. The restaurant specializes in couscous, of which it offers 10 different varieties, including
merguez (spicy beef and/or lamb sausage from Morocco, seasoned with cumin), fish, lamb, chicken and ‘royal’, with a bit of everything in it. Other dishes include tajines,
mechoui, and all sorts of grilled vegetables. Wash the lot down with a mint tea.
2 rue de la République, 2e
Tel: (04) 9190 6193.
Price: $
Tarte Julie An ideal pit stop for stocking up on pies, cakes and other pastries, which one can eat at a table at the back, or outside on the terrace in summer. Take away is also available. Good grub at reasonable prices for lunch on a budget.
14 avenue du Prado, 6e
Tel: (04) 9137 2345.
Price: $
Table Ronde -
La Taverne Bretonne This crêperie is owned and managed by a guy from Brittany, and needless to say they know their stuff there. Try some delicious pancakes and
galettes (traditional or more modern options, the choice is vast) washed down with some excellent cider. The décor will transport you to another part of France (the owners brought some Breton furniture and table linen with them to give the restaurant that authentic feel). Take away also available.
24 rue Sylvabelle, 6e
Tel: (04) 9104 6883.
Website:
www.latableronde.fr Price: $
Personal Recommendations Al Dente Just round the corner from the Prefecture, this restaurant has been churning out excellent pasta dishes (all homemade on the premises in the morning) since 1984, and there is no sign of their popularity waning. Where else are you going to try tagliatelle with foie gras and girolles, rigatoni with melted goat cheese, black tagliatelle with scallops or basilica and rabbit ravioli? Booking essential.
10 rue Edmond Rostand, 6e
Tel: (04) 9181 6745.
Price: $$
La Cloche à Fromage La Cloche à Fromage is a popular restaurant on the place Thiars where all the dishes on the menu feature cheese, be it in salad, sauces or even desserts. Check out the enormous cheese bell (
cloche) after which the restaurant is named, where some 70 varieties of cheeses vie for diners’ attention. Be warned though: you won’t be able to taste them all in one sitting.
27 cours Estienne d’Orves, 1e
Tel: (04) 9154 8538.
Price: $$
La Côte de Boeuf A restaurant with a well established reputation for the quality of its meat (cooked either on the grill or in a woodfire oven) and its excellent wine list. Wood, stone walls and a fireplace make for a cosy atmosphere. More expensive, but more upmarket, than
L’Entrecôte du Port (which is good too) just around the corner. Closed Sunday.
35 cours d’Estienne d’Orves, 1e
Tel: (04) 9154 8908.
Price: $$$
La Taverne de Maitre Kanter Traditional northern French cuisine, including
choucroute (sauerkraut) and
moules frites (mussels and fries), served in a relaxed atmosphere. The service is friendly and the portions generous. And there is a good selection of beers to wash the lot down. Who cares if it’s a chain?
1 place aux Huiles, 1e
Tel: (04) 9111 0180. Website:
www.tavernes-maitre-kanter.com Price: $$
Le Tire-
Bouchon Specialties from Lyon with a touch of the exotic are the signature dishes of this restaurant in the bohemian cours Julien. Oysters au gratin, foie gras, lobster, duck and game all feature on the menu. A solid wine list complements any dining choice. And there is a terrace under the trees to get some respite from the hot summer nights. Closed Sunday and Monday.
11 cours Julien, 6e
Tel: (04) 9142 4903.
Price: $$-$$$
Nightlife:Marseille has a dynamic live music and club scene. Check out
Sortir, every Wednesday in
La Provence (website:
www.laprovence-presse.fr), the local daily paper, for listings. Also worth buying is
l’Officiel des Loisirs, out every Wednesday too. Otherwise
Vox Mag is a free fortnightly publication with listings, available from
La Fnac, Virgin and many venues.
A good online guide for nightlife is
http://marseillebynight.com (French only).
The best areas for nightlife in Marseille are the Vieux Port and Place Thiars, and the Escale Borély, a waterfront development south of the town center (a 20 minute ride on the bus no 83), right by the sea. Also worth checking out is le cours Julien, a square lined with cafes and restaurants in the La Plaine area.
Bars: Many bars in Marseille are also
glaciers (ice cream parlours). In fact, going out for an ice-cream is almost as popular as going out for a drink, at least in the hot summer months. For an aperitif head for the
Bar de la Marine, 15 quai de Rive Neuve, 7e, made famous by local author Marcel Pagnol.
Le Suffren, quai des Belges, 6e, is one of the many other bars overlooking the Vieux Port, perfect for people-watching and especially pleasant at sunset.
Le Café de la Plage, Escale Borély, avenue Pierre Mendés-France, 8e, is a swanky cocktail bar facing the sea near the Prado beaches, popular with a hip young surfer crowd.
Le Manureva, 1 avenue de la Pointe-Rouge, 8e, is an ultra trendy bar in the chic part of town (it is decorated like a luxury yacht inside), ideal for a pre-club drink or two. Homesick visitors can try the
Red Lion, 231 avenue Pierre Mendès-France, 8e (website:
www.pubredlion.com) for some draught beer, English speaking staff and some fish and chips.
MP Bar, 10 rue Beauveau, 1e is the most popular of Marseille’s gay bars, open from early evening until sunrise.
Bars a vin (wine bars) are popular at the moment. Try
Le Bistrot a Vin, 17 rue Sainte, 1e.
Clubs: Le Trolleybus, 22-24 quai de Rive Neuve, 7e (website:
http://letrolley.com) has been going strong for years and is still one of the most popular clubs in Marseille, with techno, house, hip-hop, jazz, and salsa, depending on the day of the week. The
Café de la Plage, Escale Borély, avenue Pierre Mendès-France, 8e, is where all the trendy young things strut their stuff... it offers dancing and karaoke with popular music selections. The
New Cancan, 3 rue Senac, 1e, is the city’s largest gay-friendly club, while
Le Millenium, route de Cassis, 9e, is one of the biggest clubs in town, and plays mainly house music.
La Maronaise, Anse Croisettes, Les Goudes, 8e, is frequented by some of Marseille’s beau monde (including well-known football players and television personalities) who come here to enjoy the amazing views and the impressive seawater pool (open Apr-Oct only). Entry to some nightclubs very much depends on the whim of the bouncers on the day, but dressing the part helps, so make an effort.
Live Music: Check out
Espace Julien, 39 cours Julien, 6e (website:
www.espace-julien.com), for everything from French music to jazz to hip hop and local talent;
Dock des Suds, 12 rue Urbain V, 2e (website:
www.dock-des-suds.org) for world music, and
Friche Belle de Mai, 41 rue Jobin, 3e (tel: (04) 9504 9504; website:
www.lafriche.org).
Pêle-
Mêle, 8 place aux Huiles, 1e, is a many-faceted bar/disco/cafe that occasionally hosts live music. The
Cité de la Musique (Auditorium), 4 rue Bernard du Bois, 1e (website:
www.citemusique-marseille.com) (also Bastide de la Magalone, 245bis, boulevard Michelet) is the home of several local music associations and features concerts of all kinds, from jazz to baroque music.
La Cave à Jazz, rue Bernard-du-Bois, 1e, is, as its name indicates, the place to go for jazz music.
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