Avignon's cultural scene hits the headlines each July, with the Avignon Festival, created by Jean Vilar in 1947. It is the oldest and most famous of the festivals in France. Originally pure theater, the event now includes contemporary and religious music, dance, poetry, circus, films, exhibitions and debates involving up to 600 separate organizations. The most prestigious productions are performed in the vast
Palais des Papes courtyard, others within theaters, churches and sports halls. The Chartreuse, at Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, showcases the contemporary theater of the Avignon Festival,
as well as a separate musical theater festival, Villeneuve en Scène. 2008 saw the 62nd version of the festival, and it was a big success, attracting a total audience of some 150,000 people to the various performances.
The
Bureau du Festival d'Avignon (and box office) is located at the Cloître St Louis, 20 rue du Portail Boquier (tel: (04) 9014 1414; website:
www.festival-avignon.com). Booking for the official festival (locally known as the 'In') starts in June. Alongside the main festival, the 'Off' fringe festival enlivens city streets and courtyards with a carnival atmosphere. Avignon Festival Off has its offices at 5 rue Ninon Vallin (tel: (04) 9085 1308; website:
www.avignonleoff.com), and tickets are available from mid June.
Tickets to all other performances and cultural events in the city are available for purchase from the individual venue box offices, in advance or on the day. The tourist office publishes a monthly calendar of events (French only) in
Rendez-Vous.
Music: The gracious
Opéra d'Avignon (tel: (04) 9082 4242), built in 1847, overlooks place de l'Horloge. The season runs from October to June and includes operas, operettas and symphonic and chamber music concerts, as well as theater and ballet. The
Musique Sacrée en Avignon, 49 rue Portail Magnanen (tel: (04) 9082 2175; website:
www.musique-sacree-en-avignon.org), organizes free concerts in churches (October to May). The concert series celebrated its 40th anniversary in 2006.
Theater: Avignon has about 10 permanent theaters, as well as the opera house (see above). The
Théâtre du Chêne Noir, 8 rue Ste-Catherine (tel: (04) 9082 4057; website:
www.chenenoir.fr), draws well-known actors and directors, while the
Théâtre du Chien qui Fume, 75 rue des Teinturiers (tel: (04) 9085 2587; website:
www.chienquifume.com), puts on a varied program of theater, music and improvization evenings. The
Théâtre des Halles, 4 rue Noël Biret (tel: (04) 9085 5257; website:
www.theaterdeshalles.com), excels in contemporary theater, while cutting-edge
Théâtre des Carmes, 6 place des Carmes (tel: (04) 9082 2047), is run by the André Benedetto company - one of the founders of the Festival 'Off'. Theater tickets tend to be cheaper than the Festival 'On' and the season runs from October to May.
Dance: Dance has its own moment of glory in February, when Les Hivernales contemporary dance festival takes place at
La Manutention, 4 rue escalier Ste Anne (tel: (04) 9082 3312; website:
www.hivernales-avignon.com). The
Théâtre Golovine, 1 rue Ste Catherine (tel: (04) 9086 0127) offers courses and performances year round.
Film: Avignon has about 20 cinemas.
Cinéma Utopia, at La Manutention arts center, 4 rue escalier Ste Anne (tel: (04) 9082 6536), shows undubbed art house films.
Utopia has another cinema located at 5 rue Figuière, north of place St Didier, where dubbed films creep into the screenings.
Utopia also produces
La Gazette Utopia, a free monthly listings magazine.
Cinema Vox, 22 place de l'Horloge (tel: (04) 9082 0361), offers mainstream films, with the odd art house film - some in the original language. One of Avignon's largest cinemas is the 10-screen
Pathé Cap Sud, 175 rue Pierre Sémard, route de Marseille (tel: 0892 696 696).
Literary Notes: Petrarch (1304-1374) brought the theme of idealised love to Avignon, where he first set enchanted eyes on Laure, in 1327. This earthly incarnation of perfection inspired the
Canzoniere - over 300 poems, mainly sonnets, on the subject of platonic love. Not withstanding the fated meeting, Petrarch detested Avignon, which he famously described as 'a sewer where all the filth of the universe has gathered.'
Frédéric Mistral (born in 1830, between Arles and Avignon) drew on the troubadour tradition with his love poetry,
Mireille (1859), about star-crossed lovers. Written in both Provençal and French, the tragic tale won Mistral a Nobel Prize and revived the dying Provençal language. Together with Avignon-born Theodore Aubanel, he founded the Felibrige movement and helped revive Provençal tradition. Avignon-born writer Pierre Boulle (1912-1994) won international renown with
Planet of the Apes (1963) and
Bridge Across the River Kwai (1952), both later made into films. English-language writers have painted a mythical picture of Provence as a sun-drenched idyll - most famously in Peter Mayle's bestselling
A Year in Provence (1991) which he followed with
Toujours Provence (1992) and, more recently,
Provence A-Z (2006).
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